Re: my engine moves
There is no rear motor mount. There is only an L shaped metal stop bolted to the rear of the cowl pan which contacts either a boss on the midleg or a boss on the bottom of the head. There is about 1/4 inch clearance between the two and they stop the engine travel during hard acceleration (hole shot).
Below the kingpin there is a biscuit type motor mount held in place with 4 bolts on the front plate that also holds the kingpin and 4 bolts that hold the back plate to the motor. This is the rubber mount that usually fails. When that happens, the engine can be tilted slightly (until the midleg hits the shroud) by lifting up or pulling out on the skeg. It is not too difficult to repair with the engine still mounted to the boat BUT it is time consuming.
I believe the lower motor mount is not easy to find and it is expensive--on the order of around 100 bucks. However, the existing one can be repaired but it involves not using the boat for several days.
Buy a good rubber adhesive--best you can find--I use 3M Scotch-Grip rubber adhesive 1300 because I got it for free. This is an industrial adhesive and the value for the price can't be beat--but you should be able to find something similar.
The motor mount is a rubber biscuit sandwiched between two aluminum plates. Usually one side of the biscuit has become detached from the plate. You must remove the mount, abrade the surfaces for good adhesion, and glue the motor mount together again. Clamp it firmly enough to ensure all glue contacts all surfaces but not so tightly that you compress the rubber biscuit. Be absolutely certain that it it centered and true so that all four holes and four slots in the plates line up--otherwise, you will not be able to re-install it.
After the glue has dried for several days now comes the part that makes it better than stock: There is a center hole in each plate through which a *** on the rubber biscuit fits to locate it during manufacture. 3/4 inch on each side of this center, drill a 1/4 inch hole all the way through both plates and the rubber. Next, in the thick front plate, drill these holes out to a 5/8 inch hole about 1/4 inch deep and countersink it with an 82Deg countersink. Next, tap the 1/4 inch holes out to 5/16 X 18 thread. Drill the holes in the thick front plate out to 5/16 to clear the screws. Buy two stainless 5/15 X 1 1/4 inch flat head screws and screw them in until just snug. Either peen them or use Locktite or epoxy on the thin rear plate to keep them from vibrating out.
These two screws reinforce the old glue joint which has not failed and the new one you have just glued. The two 5/8 inch holes allow the screws to move without hitting the midleg when the rubber biscuit compresses under acceleration. This motor mount will never fail again unless you do something catastrophic.
To reinstall the motor mount takes a bit more trouble that getting the old one out: I have found that removing the rear shroud and loosening the two bolts under the pan (which hold the upper two biscuit motor mounts) allows me to tilt the engine enough to get room to install the new mount. You will need to tilt it enough to have the lower carb resting on the pan so remove the carb cover so as to not break it. After mounting the lower mount back onto the midleg, you will need to jiggle and play with the engine position to get it to sit back down--helps to have another person but is not absolutely necessary.
Now, since my DVD and VCR are still blinking 12:00 that tells you I do not know how to post photos. But, if someone will give clear instructions, I will post a couple of a repaired motor mount. Once you see it , it will become crystal clear how to repair it.
Also, if you do not want to repair yours and can not find or do not want to buy a new one, send me a PM---I will either repair yours or trade.
