I just got through putting another impeller on a 5.5hp Johnson of the same year, which is the same motor.
You need to keep in mind to replace the power head seal with a new one, I replaced mine and was lucky enough to find one local for $5. Also keep in mind on how the spring, caps, and O'ring (located right under the power head) go back on the drive shaft (which I didn't do), take them out and put them in a safe place before you drop the lower unit out.
Check the water pump housing for scratches and pitting, if the pump housing does show this you should consider a new water pump repair kit which may look different then your old one due to improvement.
After doing inspection on my water pump housing I found it to be in good shape I just put another impeller in it.
No it is not that hard to pull the power head, while your in the lower unit you might want to check each port and make sure they are opened and not blocked up. Once you get the power head off you have 2 nuts holding the shift rod, undo those nuts and then unbolt the lower unit it should come out.
While putting the impeller back in make sure you get it facing the right direction. When putting the lower unit back on make sure that the pipe on the top of the water pump housing meets with the pipe in the lower unit, don't mess this part up, if you half to take a flash light and make sure the pipe is down in the water pump housing.
Good Luck.
I just got mine running today but I don't have a tank to run it on. As of right now I believe everything is OK and ready to go.
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1977 Challenger 15' Bass Boat with a 1978 85HP Evinrude (finished project but keep finding stuff to add to it)
Projects include: To many boats, to many outboards, and 1 I/O that I hope to be rid of soon.
Very nice directions, thanks - this is what a was afraid of, a lot of work compaired to later models. Lucky for me this is a fresh water motor or else forget getting the power head screws out. Where do you get such detailed instructions and details like this? I live close to the cape.
Okay got it all appart but the four screws to remove pump were not easy to remove, snapped all four! With heat and lube I managed to get three all the way out but number four broke off deep. Will the pump work fine with only three screws holding down the cover? Not sure it can be drilled out cuz it bottoms out. Other ideas ???
If I remember correctly, the tapped holes for the water pump screws go through the edge of the gearcase.Turn it upside down and see if there are holes matching the screw holes from the top.
These do not go all the way through and are inside to the casing. I stuck a wire in all three good holes and it bottoms out. Never used a reverse drill and I'm afraid to go to deep, not sure how much meat is under the screw.
Lower the left hand drill bit in a 'clear' hole until it bottoms out, marking the bit. Now drill out the 'stuck' bolt until your mark on the bit matches the mating surface of the housing.
Along with a quality penetrating oil, Ill bet you will get it out.
Where do I buy it?
What size?
Do I run the power drill forward or reverse?
Does it work like an easy-out?
What speed do I run drill, fast/slow?
Probibly need to re-tap after?
The drill must be run in reverse when using a left hand drill bit. Run it at a medium speed, with a quality penetrating oil. They will usually come out without the need for the extractor. Visit your local hardware store or google it online, there are many online stores that you can get it from for dollars. Handy thing to have in your tool kit for the do it yourselfer.
I use left hand drill bits. Start with a small nail punch to get a center, then use a small bit to make a hole, then larger bit to grip the screw and enlarge the hole, which usually turns the screw. http://www.mytoolstore.com/hanson/hanson.html
If you buy easy outs, don't use the spiral ones, they spread the metal and damage the aluminum threads. The second set shown here is what I should have purchased: http://www.mytoolstore.com/hanson/extractr.html