[sasanm]

Guys,
I am about to get my 19ft starcraft deep V 63 holiday back from the welder this week. (Had to get a crack fixed in the bow) and I fugured since I am this far into it and I will probably never have the boat completely gutted again I should just paint it. I think I can figure out how to get it off the trailer and flip it but any advice would help. But the real question is what is a good type of paint to use. I am planning on painting both the topside and bottom of the boat but the boat is always trailered. I am also planning on using the roll and tip method. I do have several dents so I am not sure it a high gloss or a low gloss would look better to help hide them. Also since I am way over budget already I would like to keep the costs down. The boat is already painted so I am just planning on lighlty sanding the old paint and not priming. I think I am going to go with a white so any advice is great.
James

[JimMachinery]

James:

I used Petit's Easypoxy and am very happy with the coverage and the finish using roll and tip also. That said, my dad and many on this forum have used Rust Oleum oil paints with equally nice results. Surface prep can be as important as the paint used.

I also found that a $5.00 deadblow hammer from Harbo Freight Tools can do wonders for dents in aluminum hulls without even damaging the existing paint!

Good Luck!

Jim

[TriadSteeler]

I also use Petit Easypoxy with the tip and roll. (And more recently roll and roll method with a smooth surface foam roller.) However, I would go with an Off-White. I painted a boat with the Brite White 10 years ago and it was so bright it almost hurts your eyes.

Jim is correct about the prep. Any imperfection that you don't sand away will show thru your paint. Sometimes the paint can even accentuate the defect.

[fishie]

I am also about to repaint my aluminum 14' Mirrocraft, as far as prep work goes can I use a pneumatic orbital and some type of a stripper like mineral spirits? And rollings nice and everything, but I have a HVLP sprayer. Never sprayed rust o leum before. What base is it... oil, laquer?
That boat should'nt weigh more than about 400 lbs, right? If so build ya some nice and sturdy saw horses with 2x4's and 2 or 3 people should be able to flip it. Wet down the area before you start painting, keeps from kicking up particles onto your fresh paint!
Thanks
Ryan

[tashasdaddy]

all of these are rustoleum, boats, used a 3 inch roller, and brush roll & tip.

[Rairdog]

I wish I had your talent Tash. I am considering modeling my Lund after your fishing boat. Back to the paint. How do you prep the nicks and scratches in the existing paint on an alum hull. They seem too deep to sand out.

[tashasdaddy]

all i do is sand down to a stable base, no need to go to bare metal. you can use JB weld and skim the bad areas, and sand them feathering them out. JB weld will get really hard. the red and white one, is rigged with stick steering, and remote controls at the middle seat. makes a super cool boat. use to say i was going fishing, and just go out an play in it.

[joeyplumley]

Originally Posted by fishie

That boat should'nt weigh more than about 400 lbs, right? If so build ya some nice and sturdy saw horses with 2x4's and 2 or 3 people should be able to flip it.

Me and my 97 lb wife flipped our 18 footer over ourselves. Make sure all handrails & accessories are removed first so they don't get squished.

[joeyplumley]

As for painting - I roll/tipped the bottom of mine last night using Ben Moore M22 (like Rustoleum) and it took forever. I did 2 coats and will probably need a third. I primed with Rustoleum's latex aluminum primer on the bare spots. I know not to mix latex and oil-based, but the can said it's OK after 24 hours of dry time to top coat with oil-based paint. Seems OK so far.....

I may try spraying it tonight as I'm running out of patience - I have an HVLP setup, a couple high pressure guns, and a Wagner airless (which I heard is crap to use - I've never used one). That Wagner keeps staring at me every time I open my paint cabinet.