as advised on an earlier issue i bought a repair manual and a water pump repair kit .... the manual mentions a gasket above and below the water pump plate but i cant seem to find these gaskets anywhere and they didnt come with the kit .... which id think would be a given... any suggestions ...... also ... and i*m not a complete idiot .... just a mechanical idiot .... are the impeller blades supposed to be forced into the pump cup .... and if so does it make any difference which way the blades lay thnx
Turn the driveshaft clockwise while lowering the impeller housing down onto the impeller. The blades will be a tight fit. A little dish soap will help.
well the repair kit is from sierra but it is for the evinrude part nmbr 394711 and the repair manual is from seloc ... i also have an exploded diagram of the lower unit from the -evinrude johnson outboard parts warehouse- but it does not show any gaskets immediately over or under the water pump plate
hey thank you very much as im sure this info will be very helpful ..... i've finally decided to start this project and i'm stuck at the part i thought would be the easiest .... dropping the lower unit .... i got the bolts out ... no easy feat since the head of my socket wrench is too big to give the socket a fairlead to the bolt .... however the lower unit after much prying and twisting and puilling only drops about an inch then stops dead .... i dunno if it makes a difference but this is a long shaft .... i started in forward gear and when then didnt work i went to neutral but after working it for awhile i noticed it was back in forward ..... any suggestions for yanking this thing apart???
STOP YANKING ON IT! it wont come out because you have to disconnect the shift rod from up top. it should be just under your bottom carb. there is a bolt holding it on. after that is off it should come off easy.
Agree. Would add though to put a couple of the bolts back in before disconnecting the shift rod, or she will drop, and drop fast. One of the reasons I remove my prop when I do this, that and to clean up old fishing line on the prop shaft and re grease my splines.
15hp has the shift linkage between the lower and the mid-section. Pop it in reverse and it'll split enough to see a bronze coupler inside in the front. Remove the lower screw completely and you'll be able to pop it out.
ok .... im gettin ready to take a sledge hammer to it .... i cant move it back up to reconnect bolts .... it wont budge .... i wouldnt know a carb .... lowr or otherwise if i tripped over it .... i doooooo have a suggestion for the manual makers ..... a zoomed in picture of the head of a bolt doesnt really help me if i have nooooooo idea where the bolt is .... some zoomed out pics maybe with arrows would be much more useful ..... and why oh why dont they mention that shift rod in the water pump replacement section ..... is it because its a no brainer ..... maybe i shouldnt be workin on this aaaaannnnnnnyyyyywwwwwaaaaaaayyyyyyy .... this shift rod bolt that im lookin for ... is it inside the engine cover or on the outside ... i did try to take off a bolt on the outside ... i think its an extra cuz there are two of them there and nothin happens when u loosen it ..... also do i need to remove the section above the section that the water pump is bolted to .... i think its the ..long.. part of the long shaft many thanx for all yur help ..... if you get me thru this i promise i wont work on my outboard anymore
Slow down! Stop! Go back to the manual. Stop removing things you don't know the function for. Is this an official factory service manual, or one of the aftermarket ones?
Either way, you'll find the information about disconnecting the shift rod in the section on working on the lower unit. Where it tells you how to remove the gearcase from the engine, you'll find information on the shift rod joint. With the shifter in reverse, you should see it, just inside the leg, where it the lower unit or gearcase separates. The shift rod is in two pieces, and there's a connector that joins the two pieces.
Don't fool around with it until you have found that part of your manual and understand what you're doing. Leave the sledgehammer in the garage, please. That's too nice an outboard to ruin.
If you still can't understand the process after finding the shift rod connector information in the manual, you may just have to bite the bullet and let someone else do your water pump. But, trust me, you can do it. Just take your time. Read. Understand what you read, then proceed.
One of the many reasons why a factory OEM manual is reccomended and the Seloc's are for cleaning up oil spills
Click on the link I provided in response #2 and navigate to your specific outboard. The diagrams provided can be zoomed in or out, making things much easier, and adding names to the items for reference.
ok im gonna cry uncle and throw in the towel ..... the only thing i could get from the seloc manual is a diagram .... but it doesnt show where the shift rod connector is in relation to the engine .... the only thing that even remotely resembled what ive been reading and seeing in the manual is 2 rusty bolts right inside the the engine compartment connected to the shifter ..... which is now imobile by the way .... but this thing runs horizontally away from the shifter which makes it perpendicular to the shift rod ... so i dont know how disconnecting that would facilitate removal of the lowr unit ..... i think i'll sleep on it and re read the manual 2moro .... maybe hit a few bars .... you can find an expert on ANYTHING in a bar thnx again to everyone
If your outboard is like mine then there is a oval plate on the leg of the motor. It's on the shift lever side and probably about a foot down from the lever. Remove the two screws and then you will see a brass coupler with two bolts. Remove the lower bolt and your lower unit will slide right on out.
When you go to bolt the lower unit back up you will need to make sure you slide the water tube inside the top of the water pump housing. If it doesn't want to slide in you can stick your finger inside the hole where you removed the plate and guide the water tube into the housing.
Once you have the water tube in place you have to make sure the shift rod goes back into the coupler. When you get that lined up try and slide the lower unit back up into the motor. It probably won't go so grab the flywheel and turn it slowly until the shaft slides in. Bolt everything back up and you will be good to go. It's actually very easy and it's even easier if you don't allow yourself to get all worked up.
You will need those gaskets. Your outboard will only piss about half as much water without them. I would either exchange that kit for another one or make whoever sold you that kit give you the gaskets for free (assuming they should have came with the kit).
Oh yeah, don't lose the little key to the impeller (it's easy to do).
ok my name is larry and i am NOT smarter than a 5th grader ..... im sure with all this valuable info i should be able to do it blindfolded if i could only find that shift rod connector .... i see it in the diagram ... i just don*t see it under the hood .... there is def no bronze plate below the shifter ..... i wish i could find a picture of it similar to the water pump pic from chris above .... but alas i think i*m gonna have to drag that outboard along with my first born to the experts ... its time to cut my losses and move on ..... i can use my sailboat without the motor but i cant use my motor without my sailboat .....thnx one and all for all yur time/advice/pics/and info .... ive made copies of everything and im sure ill be back to many of these resources again and again thank you
Once again, it's not under the hood. You'll need to drop the lower unit about an inch or so and look between the lower unit and the midsection in the front.
You'll see a bronze coupler in there.
Edit: Here's a pic to help. It's inside the covers where the red circle is.
thank you bf for that awesome website NOW i know where to go for the shft rod cpling ... however i find it evn more challanging removing the upper 6 bolts on my long shaft extension than the lower ones .... is there a special wrench for this .... the head on my ratchets is a little too big to get a fairlead to the bolt head and while i can get an open end wrench on it ... there's no room left to turn it .... i got a couple of bolts out but i dont want to strip the stubborn ones ... right now they're soaking in WD 40
glad you're finding it useful... it's a great site.
You might consider getting a short "wobble extension" for your socket set. It allows about 15-20 degrees of wobble in the connection between the socket and the extension to allow you to use a socket in tight spaces. Usually not included at socket sets, but should be. Will be available at automotive place that sells socket sets.
ya know ... i tried the box wrench but the outside rounded edges left me no room to turn it ... i was gettin ready to grind the shoulders down on the box wrench when i decided to give it one more try with the ratchet and a really long extension .... that did the trick .... and i'm pretty sure ... thankfully ... the last owner used never seize ... and i'll do the same .... soooooo that long shaft extension didnt drop right out so i'm goin for my rubber mallot .... thnx again for all the help and the quick replies ............ i'm sure i'll be back again shortly
ok i'm rappin it pretty good with the hammer and it opened enuf to get a scraper blade in there ... and after a little prying and tapping i.ve git it open unuf to get a screwdriver in there .... but it seems to be done movin now .... an awful lot of salt came out with the tapping ..... it's a saltwater engine .... i wonder if it's dried salt holding it up .... i dont wanna bang or pry too hard and damage something
1987 15hp evinrude water pump repair
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