This motor was new to me last year. It ran beautifully, but I don't know when the water pump was last changed, so I'm thinking that it would be wise to replace it. I'm a rookie to outboards, but pretty handy and I've got the manual. Is this a fairly straight forward job, or am I better off leaving it to a pro?
Not a problem at all, especially with a manual. The hardest part (which is not hard at all) will be dropping the lower unit. It is a wise decision indeed to service the water pump. I would also reccomend flushing the cooling system while the lu is down, as well as cleaning out the intake area of debris. This video may also help. Good luck.
Thanks for the link it's a great help! Couple of questions: When reinstalling the lower unit, do you need to replace any seals between the upper and lower units? Is dropping the lower unit just a matter or unbolting it? And is the reinstall to the upper unit as simple as aligning the driveshaft and shift rod back into the upper unit before reassembly? Lastly, any suggestions on where to get a replacement impellor (#0382547)? Thanks for the advice,
You will want to be sure that the exhaust seal is in place and in good condition. It is just behind the water pump.
While the lower unit is off, it is a good opportunity to have the gearcase pressure tested.
There are seven bolts to be removed, including the one that holds the trim tab in place. You have to remove the trim tab to get to the bolt that is hidden above it. Be sure to mark the location of the trim tab so that you can put it back as it was.
Your nearest BRP dealer is the best place to get the impeller.
Is there anything holding or pinning the drive shaft he upper unit or does it just slide into splines? Same question for the shifter rod. Also, thanks for your suggestion on pressure testing the gear housing and sorry to sound so green, but how is that done?
the shiftrod will have a pin or screw holding it in place, the method of fastening changed ever so often so I'm not sure of yours exactly, but it will be under the bottom carb and require some dexterity and probably a socket extention to reach. Some grease in the socket improves your chances of not dropping it. check the manual
when you mate the two halves, you might have to rotate the flywheel just a tiny bit to mesh the splines - no fasteners there. manual calls for molly lube on the splines, the OEM water pump kit includes a little packet of it, but not on the top of the driveshaft, the clearance is too tight.
manual also calls for "OMC adhesive M" on both halves, I have in the past substituted permatex #2 with no problems, but that joint doesn't have to hold water or anything.
I pressure-tested my L/U with a 12V air compressor (small roadside-emergency tire inflator kind of thing with a built-in gauge), and the hose that comes with one of those $10 plastic gearcase oil changing pumps that screws into the drain hole. I found a piece of 1/4" pvc hose that made a good adaptor along with a couple zip ties. pump it up to 12 - 15 PSI and see if it holds. But myself, I usually don't do that unless there's water in the gear oil.
__________________ "It's all about the tools." -- myself
"Poets talk about 'spots of time,' but it is really fishermen who experience eternity compressed into a moment. No one can tell what a spot of time is until suddenly the whole world is a fish and the fish is gone. I shall remember that son of a b**** forever." -- N. Maclean
I was about to order an impeller and I saw that you can also buy a rebuild kit. Is there usually any need to replace anything other than the impeller during a routine maintenance? Also, any reason to replace any fuel pump components as routine preventative maintenance?
There's a couple gaskets, which can be reused if undamaged. The full pump kit (OEM kit is about $55) includes a new pressure plate (inner housing part) which only needs replacing if the old one is scored like from sand or debris, new water tube & grommet which I don't think wear out, maybe some hardware.
Fuel pump, not a routine mtx item, it has a rubber diaphram that eventually wears out, mine lasted 24 years. Kit is about $12 and maybe half an hour. A bit more the first time depending on your learning curve. I needed 2+ hours (don't laugh).
__________________ "It's all about the tools." -- myself
"Poets talk about 'spots of time,' but it is really fishermen who experience eternity compressed into a moment. No one can tell what a spot of time is until suddenly the whole world is a fish and the fish is gone. I shall remember that son of a b**** forever." -- N. Maclean
Once you have the lower unit off, you may find that you should have bought the whole pump, but until you inspect it you won't know for sure.
The best course for the fuel pump is replacement when and if it fails. The original pump was part #385784, now superseded to #438559. Most of the needed parts are in repair kit #393103, or Sierra Kit 18-7820.
1973 Evinrude 65hp Water pump
Linear Mode
