Hello.Does anybody out there have any experience with a product called a-lum-rite or dura fix 3 in one?I am trying to do some repairs on an aluminum hull and these products are advertised to do a real good job just with a mapp gas flame.I would really appreciate it to hear of anybody with experience with this stuff on boats.Thank you.
Yes I see how that might help.I am trying to repair a few cracks around some rivets on the bottom of my 40 year old 17' Duratech Orion.I have to decide between riveting a patch or trying to weld it.
I been doing this stuff professionaly for 25 years, here' the way to do it:On an aluminum boat with thin skins or aluminum boats that are riveted, the sheet metal will eventually crack around the edge of the welds where you weld up a rivet. In addition the heat will warp and buckle the hull around the welds. ALSO...if you weld a rivet head, it will enlongate the shank of the rivet and the rib or bulkhead behind it will start to seperate(if not completely melt away) and a gap between the two pieces will appear which will exacerbate the cracking proccess because the sheet metal is no longer supported properly. AND...on top of all this, it cost alot more to weld and looks like h e l l when done. Any goo or other quick fix amounts to the same thing. They DO NOT improve the integrity of the hull as do the screws. The screw not only look nice and is stronger, it matches the boat, any bafoon can fix it with a screw driver and 1/4" socket wrench with some 5200. The only appropriate weld spots are long splits or 90' corners and should be backed up with a piece of stainless steel or copper when welded using 5356 weld filler ONLY Use S.S. TRUSS HEAD phillips screws with flat washer and nylon locking nut on the back side. Drop of 5200 sealant around the screw head before inserting so that it squishes thru jus' a bit when ya push the screw in. Wipe of exterior with lacquer thinner soon as you tighten the screw. Use #10-24 X 1/2" size screw and drill out rivet with 3/16" drill bit. IMPORTANT! Remove all filings, champher all holes with large 3/8" or 1/2" drill bit. USE STAINLESS STEEL TRUSS HEAD PHILLIPS screws. Box of 50 ea. should cost about 4.50, nuts 4.50, washers 2.50. You could literaly dissassemble your whole boat and put it back together this way with different size screw for different size rivets. I do repairs and restorations this way.
I have never tried any of these "brazing products" but I came accross this site. These are supposed to be better and easier to use than "Durafix, Alumiweld etc". A bit pricey, though.http://newtechnologyproducts.net/
I have seen these magic aluminium "weld" sticks demonstrated by reparing a coke tin. However I bought a bundle and have been totally unsuccessful at repairing anything that lasts long. I believe the learned advice from the previous post is by far your best bet.PS if you want to try one of these weld sticks I will happily post you one as I bought heaps.!!
Thank you all for your replies.Flyboymark you convinced me to go your way.That leaves me with a few questions.The rather large cracks are on the keel about 1/3 of the way from the front end.Probably trailer damage.Can I just take a plate of aluminum and using the old rivet holes just screw the new patch right on top of the original material,or must I remove the old plate with the cracks and start that way?What brand is "5200"?If I put a patch on top of the old material,what sort of bonding agent should I use to prevent leakage between the plates?What about closed-end rivets? Would they be any good? I know that this is close to picking your brain,but doing it myself with all the advice I can get is the only way I can afford to stay on the water.Again thank you all very much for all the time and advice you gave me.Rolmops.
5200 is a 3M marine sealant really good stuff and nasty to work with. I would weld the crack first and see how it holds up. A mechanicly fastened patch can be used but requires alot of manual labor. The patch should be same thickness as the hull and about 1" to each side of the crack. The patch should be on the outside of the hull and the edges should be beveled. Use tiny 4-40 SS philips flat head screws counter sunk into the patch about every 1/2" around the crack, 1/4" in from the edge of the patch with little washers and nylon lock nuts on the back(use 5200 to seal alum. together and dry assemble patch first) This would make a nice looking repair but is labor intensive so you might jus wanna try to have it welded first. Any kind of pop-riviet other than aircraft grade cherry rivets will vibrate loose. I state again...the weldor must use 5356 filler and don't let him tell you other wise!!! TIG torch set up should be 3/32" "pointed", thorated tungstun and about 1/16" 5356 filler with about 1/2" gas nozzel. Should be wire brushed to shiny aluminum both sides.
On aluminum boat repair. On rivets that leak that are not out repair is easy. Mark leaks with a permanent black marker while fishing or fill with water at shore and crawl under bottom and mark. Have one person hold flat part of ax on top side while other person takes hammer and slightly taps rivet from top round rivet side. To fix rivets that are not able to be repaired this way. Drill out rivet with bit size of main shank only. Rivet will fall out. Purchase galvanized screws with small round head, nut, and a little larger washer on outside but close to bolt size on inside. Apply old JB Weld to round head part and attact under boat while second person holds socket on top and tightens nut. The old original JB weld will do wonders. I have even used to repair radiator on my 8N ford tractor years ago.You can use JB weld to patch small holes up to inch by using patch material from hardware and mix up JB Weld to apply with 2 inch metal putty knife. Make sure to clean and sand area a little ruff beyond patch area on both sides. Patch both sides about 1 inch larger than hole. Guaranteed to save a bunch over time for repairs. Proven on my boat!Hint: Make sure to thoroughly clean area to surface and rought up slightly for material to hold.
aluminum repair
Does anybody out there have any experience with a product called a-lum-rite or dura fix 3 in one?
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