I was just given an old Evinrude sportsman motor. It's a tiny thing, caked with dry mud. The SN looks like 4425-103-3C? Anyone know what year model this is?
Thanks so much. 1951, that's older than I am (barely)! It's got alot of mud in it but it looks really simple. I'll get it running. I got the choke working again and oiled all the fittings and screws. It will probably need a full overhaul but I need a new project as I just finished a dinghy (amesbury skiff from midwest models to full scale 10'). I would have replied sooner but my sister's birthday is tomorrow and we sailed San Francisco bay on my restored 1942 Bear boat (www.bearboats.com #24). Great sail, good winds.
Anyone know where I can get an exploded view of the motor or a manual? I can pay for it. Also, what's the fuel mix ratio?
we all need to support iboats marine store when ever possible. you get, competitive prices. fast shipping, top notch customer service. also it provides us, this great FREE forum.
Fuel mix ratio is 16:1 when it was manufactured. If you're lucky it has the old style indestructible coil. If the coil is cracked it has the later style. Probaby just have to clean/regap points to get it sparking again. Check the LU grease, it doesn't use oil cause it may not have true seals in the LU...use Lubriplate 105 white grease. The carbs on those are real interesting...you have to readjust the rich/lean mixture as you increase throttle, a neat feature...they really purr along when you get it all right.
I sent Ken Cook an email on 4425 in stock, I am presuming that is the model number. I haven't ordered yet until it's confirmed by them but will. Thanks alot for the mix and lube stats. This motor should run again. I am a machinist and will make the parts if I need to. I'm also an electronics tech and will wrap a new coil if that's what it takes. First I need to get the mud out as it's abrasive.
You're a machinest AND an electronics technician? Dang! I'm jealous. I wish I could make parts and figure out electronics.....That's one reason I like the old motors, because I don't like the new electronics stuff that are hard to figure out and more expensive to replace. I hope you post a pic of your old motor when you get it running. Old motors are even sweeter when someone gives it to you, huh!?
good luck,
JBJ
no, they are sweeter, at the ramp or dock, when you give them one pull and they start, and purr, while everyone else who neglects there motors, are trying to get theres started.
we all need to support iboats marine store when ever possible. you get, competitive prices. fast shipping, top notch customer service. also it provides us, this great FREE forum.
no, they are sweeter, at the ramp or dock, when you give them one pull and they start, and purr, while everyone else who neglects there motors, are trying to get theres started.
It started today! I tore the carburator apart with the data pages and replaced gaskets with hand cut gasket material, cleaned gobs of crud and spiderwebs out. The inner throttle butterfly was stuck, broke the arm off it trying to free it. Finally got it apart and machined a new key on the end to fit the arm and silver soldered it (jewelry grade hard solder). Everything went together according to the plan (thanks to outboardbooks.com and the tip that lead me there (tashasdaddy)).
Yesterday I tore into the motor, points looked ok and the coils (plastic) beeped out good. Couldn't get the flywheel off so took it to the local garage for a wheel puller, $5/5min., cool. Removed the timing plate and took the cylinder head off to check the piston and all. Cleaned everything with carb cleaner (strong stuff!). The paint came off the outer cylinder head, oh well, good paint remover. I used the same head gasket as it's harder grade than the paper stuff I got, seems OK though. I pulled the bottom gearbox off to get the grit out of the swivel, but the pump screws wouldn't budge. Drained a bunch of black tar out of the gear box, diluting with WD40 until it drained clean and replaced with 90 weight as per the manual (90 wt., not the WD40).
"If it moves and shouldn't use duck tape, if it doesn't move and should, use WD40." (anon)
So I put it all back together and dumped gas mix (5oz/gal) in the tank, put it in my makeshift water tank (2 ladders and an old mahogany plank plus a tank from the old cooler in the barn with a 1 hole stopper plugged with a drill bit). I opened up the fuel valve and gas came gushing out the valve, shut it off. Call it a day.
This morning I pulled the motor from the tank and laid it down, removed the fuel valve. The gasket seal was shreaded and falling apart. I cut a piece of leather to fit and put it back together, works fine.
Back at the tank I opened the valve and pulled a couple times and it STARTED!!! it only ran a couple seconds and died, but it's firing. I turned off the choke and tried again and it ran awhile and died. It would only run in the start position for a little while then die. I pulled the motor again and changed the throttle linkage to the outer hole and it worked better, but still dies out.
I think the problem may be dirty gas as I didn't flush the tank but that's next. Probably need to reclean the carb, oh well. But it runs!!
Thanks All,
Dan
PS. JBJ the new computer chips are still impossible to figure out. This old beast is cool. The motor was free but the manual ran $50, well worth it. It's a revised edition 1956, amazing they still have it.
Yeah sounds like you need to clean the fuel system. Does it have a dual butterly carb, or the old gas mixing valve carb with the big RICH-LEAN needle on the front? Can't remember when they changed. If yours has the big single Rich-Lean needle/arm on the front, it has to be tweaked every time you speed up or down to find the sweet spot...you memorize them after awhile. Those are cool little motors. If there's a youngster in your family, be sure to share this with them...they love to tinker almost as much as us old f**ts.
I dumped the gas and it has some black grit in it. Back through the carburator we go. The carb has 2 butterflies, one in front (choke) and one in back (throttle). There is a knob in front that reads off, run, and choke that connects to the needle valve and also has a linkage to the choke when the needle is wide open. The back throttle butterfly has a linkage that is pushed open as the timing is advanced (?) with the stop/slow/start/fast arm. There is also a slow idle screw needle above the knob. The book says adjust it to 3/4 turn out.
As it is now, I can only get it to run in the start position with the needle knob set to run. Faster or slower and it just conks out. Tweeking the slow idle also conks.
Inside at the gas inlet there is a copper float donut and a knotched arm that opens a needle and seat. In back there is a flat steel valve with a harder steel triangle stop that feeds the cylinder.
I'll go back into it tomorrow to clean the grit.
Old Evinrude Sportsman motor
Linear Mode
