[Big Bubba]

Hello to you,
I finally got my warning horn replaced in my remote control and I pulled my boat out of the garage and cranked her over for the first time since 4 August 2007. Anyway, she ran pretty rough then cleared herself out for a bit and no overheat warning horn and she was cooling good in which I was able to lay my fingers on the tops of both heads and keep them on there for 6 seconds before I had to remove them and she was peeing really well. However, towards the end of the run time she started to run a little rough and then smooth out run a little rought then smooth out. I shut her down and put her back in the garage. Anyway, I put Marvel Mystery oil in it the last time I ran her to clean out the carbon from her and left it in my gas tank which is between quarter to half full of gas in a tempo plastic gas container. I pulled the spark plugs and the center electrode is shiney black and a little wet. I haven't rebuilt the carbs on her since I have owned the boat and that has been 4 years now. How hard is it to rebuild the carbs and is there any good detailed videos for free that I could watch from my computers so I can have great confidence in doing them? I have a little mechanical experience but carbs scare the heck out of me and I am scared my outbaord will not ever run right again. My outboard is an Evinrude 88 SPL V-4 model E88MSLCER 1989 model. Thanks again, Bob

[Joe Reeves]

Bubba.... those 88hp carburetors are quite simple as compared to any automotive carburetor. No springs or pumps to go flying away as you take it apart. However, if you intend to keep that engine for a few months, I'd suggest that you obtain a specific service manual for it..... NOT a manual that covers half a dozen engines.

Be sure to manually clean the four brass fixed high speed jets that are located in the bottom center portion of the float chambers.

Just make notes and take pictures before removing, then dismantling. It really helps upon reassembly. Do not rely upon memory!

(Carburetor Float Setting)
(J. Reeves)

With the carburetor body held upside down, the float being viewed from the side, adjust the float so that the free end of the float (the end opposite the hinge pin) is ever so slightly higher (just ever so slightly off level) than the other end. And when viewed from the end, make sure it is not cocked.

[eli_lilly]

Joe,

It's great to see you here still. I haven't been on in about a half a year, just started logging on again a few days ago. This thread is of interest to me, I have been debating whether to rebuild my carbs or not. I do have the factory manual. The question I am wondering is how far the carbs have to be broken down, once removed, in order to be cleaned? Is it necessary to remove the orifice plugs and all that crazy stuff that requires the ground-down screwdriver? Or is it enough to just remove the carb and soak it and then soak it and clean everything with a thin piece of wire? I'm just afraid it'll leak out of those plugs later if I remove them, as I've seen older messages here about that sort of issue.

-E

[Big Bubba]

Hello to all,
I went ahead and ordered 2 carb kits for my motor. I got them for $14.95 a piece or kit for a total of $35.65 for 2 carb kits including the shipping off of Ebay. I will go to Autozone or Advance and get the carb dip stuff to soak only and only the metal parts if the carbs for at least 24 hours and then reassemble them after I blow them out with compressed air and dry thoroughly. Let me know if I need to do anything else. Thanks, Bob

[tashasdaddy]

remove the jets, special tool #317002 or make one,

[Joe Reeves]

Bubba..... Be sure to check and clean the fixed jets manually. Do not depend on the cleaning solution to do that job thoroughly.

[Ranger 330V]

this is a neat video if you have the bandwith to be able to watch it.

http://www.meegsonline.com/tmd/TMDsVideoChronicle2.wmv

they are working on a johnson 115. I figure your carbs are pretty close to that. As many have stated on here, be sure to soak the carbs overnight. And make that little tool, very easy...I used an old screw driver and a grinder to make it. You might also try seafoam if you can get it. Most on here live by the stuff...as do I now. Good luck!

[Big Bubba]

Hello to all again,

I just came back from removing the top carb from my outboard. I took the carbs apart and they look pretty darn clean as good enough to eat off. Anyway, I saw the 4 jets you where talking about on the float bowl and I was able to blow thrw them very easy and I could see the hole openings and as a reassarrance I took a bristle of a paint brush and was able to get the bristle in each of the jets very easily. I did notice that when I blew threw the jets there was some white residue which I think is moisture at the bottom of the the float bowl that wasn't there when I first blew threw the jets. Maybe my gas had some moisture in it or I created it not sure though. The 2 tube pickups where very clean and I could blow threw those very easily and my idle channels where very clean and I was able to blow threw them also easily. I did call O'Reilly Auto parts in town and they sale the carb dip stuff in the gallon can for $20.00 with the dipping basket. So I will get that this weekend when I get my rebuild kit and let each carb soak for 24 hours and I will make sure all plastic and rubber pieces do not go into that carb dip stuff. I think it will be an easy tasking. It didn't take me long at all to remove the top carb piece of cake. I will let you know how it goes. I will probably not remove the jets since they look very clear and I can blow threw them very easy and I used the paint bristle to verify hole or jet opening in each one. For those I will blow them out very good just for good measures. Hopefully the bottom carb looks as good as the top carb did. We will see though becuase I don't want to mix and matcht the top and bottom carb at all and cause all kind of ruckus. Tajke care, Bob

[Ranger 330V]

something else I thought about that I found. you need mechanics wire to go through the passages in the carb and make sure they are clear. as joereeves said don't just depend on the solution. what i found was at walmart. don't go buy the mechanics wire. go to the craft section. they have oodles of craft wire that is nice and soft which will allow the wire to easily go through the passages. what else is nice it that you get a few feet on a little spool, and they have about 6 different diameters...for all your needs. they are also like 85cents a spool!! can't beat that. mechanics wire from an auto store is a bit higher. I bought all the sizes and keep it in my shop. hope that helps some.

[Ranger 330V]

Be sure to take out the little lead shots that house the idle orfices...that was the prob with mine...had a lean sneeze. And just because you can see through them doesn't mean they are really clean. Kinda like an artery, they can have a small hole in the middle of gunk. I would take wire through every hole. Not trying to tell you your business, I've just done it before. Looked through them and thought they were clean, put it back together, still had the problem. Then did it again...run wire through all the passages...blew it out again and fixed it.

[tashasdaddy]

i have a piece of household extention cord, that i stripped one end, and twisted 3 or 4 strands together to probe the jets, the copper is softer than the brass jets so it does not harm them.

[Ranger 330V]

didn't think of that. great idea! thats what makes this website so helpful, little tidbits that otherwise would never be known! gotta love it!

[Big Bubba]

Hello again,
I just looked at my carb again and decided to remove the 2 freeze plugs. I kinda boogered up the 1 very small hole that is beside another very small hole under the freeze plug but I think it will be alright becuase I didn't go all the way threw that hole with the phillip screw driver. When I removed my freeze plugs I used a very tiny small phillips head screw driver and removed the 2 freeze plugs down in that hole was 2 extremely small holes that lead to the other side in front of the butterflies of the carb and the one hole I kinda buggered up and almost made the small hole under the freeze plug bigger but I think it will be all right I hope and I don't have to get another carb. The was also no lead buckshots that you described in your previous post. I really think this carb job will go smooth. So far so good with the top carb and the bottom carb we will see when I remove her and do the same thing I have done with the top carb. Let me know if that will cause a problem becuase like I said I traced the 2 very small holes that were underneath the freeze plug and they both lead to the other side of the carb in front of the butterflies. Thanks again, Bob

[Big Bubba]

Hello again,
How hard is it to get the new freeze plugs back in the carb? I am worried about that step. What do you guys use? I watched the carb rebuild movie clip you sentr in this posting and the guy used a 6 inch extension from a ratchet. Is there a certain way to get that freeze plug in or do you line it up the best you can then use the extension and tap it down hitting it in the center of the freeze plug? Let me know becuase it is bothering me and I know the engine will not run right if that freeze plug isn't in correctly. Also read my previous post that I just posted. Thanks Bob

[Big Bubba]

bump

[Joe Reeves]

Going thru the freeze (core plug) into the flow holes beneath it usually results in problems. Best to simply have a pointed scribe inserted just slightly thru the plug, then pry it out.

Installing the plug...... There is no lining iti up the best you can scenario. The plug should fit just right in the hole with the domed side facing up. Use a punch close to the plug size to simply flatten it. That secures the plug tightly in its seat.

Frankly I don't remove those core plugs unless I know for a fact that some debris is restricting those small flow holes underneath the plug.

[tashasdaddy]

i use a 1/4 inch rachet wrench extention to tap them in.

[Big Bubba]

Hello again,
I am pretty mad at myself right now and I hope to GOD that I didn't mess it up that bad wear I can't use the carb again without having to buy another one. What does those threw holes under the freeze plug do exactly? Like I said I didn't go all the way threw the threw hole under the freeze plug becuase I traced it to the other side of the carb in front of the butterfly and it didn't come out of that side. What do you guys think I should do replace that carb with another one or use the rebuild kit and go ahead as planned and rebuild that carb and see what happens? I am hoping that I didn't do enough to cause a problem but I am not sure muself. Like I said I didn't go all the way threw that 1 threw hole to the other side just the side where I was trying to pry the freeze plug off. The side wear the butterfly doesn't look bad at all and looks exactly like the other threw hole with same diameter opening. Just let me know before I waiste a good rebuild kit on that carb. I defineitely will not be taking the freeze plug out of the other carb after learning that I shouldn't. The only reason I did remove the freeze plug is becuase I watched the video on carb rebuild and it said to not overlook that step of removing the freeze plug so that is why I did that. Let me know becuase I am stressed out about the carb. Thanks again for all of your help, Bob

[Big Bubba]

bump

[Joe Reeves]

Bubba...... From what you've said in your last post, I take it that you simply gouged the hole slightly on the top side (not clear through), and that the underside of the hole which is in the carburetor throat area is untouched.

If this is the case, you may be lucky and I'd suggest that you use that carburetor. Should problems exist, then go from there. You do not want to go to that replacement expense unless absolutely necessary.

The rebuild kit....... reusing it if it comes to that creates no problem. I've been down that road a couple times in the past 30 or 40 years.

[Big Bubba]

Joe Reeves,
Yes, the side where the float mounts to is where I kinda messed up the threw hole or wehere the float bowl attaches. The hole on the throat side or where the butterflies are at is o.k. but if I look threw the hole on the other side the float side of that same hole IO can see where I did mess it up somewhat. Does the thickness cuase a issue if not I am hoping I am all right with the threw hole becuase the diameter is exactly the same as the other threw hole beside it. I will take your advice and go ahead and build that carb and hope for the best. I am just trying to save a buck or 2 and plus I guess you can't learn if you don't do the work yourself. I am looking forward to rebuiilding these carbs and will feel great when it sounds great after rebuilding them. Thanks again for your help, Bob also does fuel go into those 2 threw holes are is it an air venturi kind of thingy. I am just curious.

[Ranger 330V]

I hope that video didn't cause any problems. I thought it was pretty helpful. I took the plugs out of mine. I drilled through them and then pried them out. I also bummed up that area some...more of a scratch as the drill bit went through. I learn real quick after that I need to put a stop on the drill. Mine are fine. I'm almost positive that those orfices under there control your idle. If they are plugged in the least you will have a lean sneeze condition, which is VERY annoying and not really good for the engine. I really think you'll be fine from what you said about the holes still being all the same size. On your other plug, if you decide to take it out, drill a small hold being careful not to allow the drill to fall through it and hit the body under the lead. and pry it out with a small punch. I also put mine in with a 3/8" socket extension. Just a few taps and they are nice and tight again...you don't have to hit them hard. Good luck! One thing about, everytime you mess something up or make a mistake you learn something...lets just say I've learned ALOT over the years on vehicles, atv's, and now boats. lol

[Joe Reeves]

The orifices (jets) that actually control the idle are located at the top front inside area of the carburetor throat. These orifices measure air, not fuel, so keep in mind that a larger ID results in a leaner fuel mixture whereas a smaller ID results in a richer fuel mixture.

The end result, as Ranger states, would be the idle fuel flow at the small holes in the carburetor throat that exists in back of the throttle butterflies.

[Big Bubba]

Joe and Ranger,
Thank you for being so helpful. I went out to my garage and looked at the hole again and I shined a light threw it and compared to the other hole right beside it that I didn't hit and it looks to be the same size. Like I said I almost went right threw that hole but didn't so hopefully I will be all right. I continually have this on my mind and I will not have piece of mind until I have did the rebuilt and have it running and seeing how the engine runs with the muffs on her. That 88 is a good motor to me and hasn't let me down except for the starter solenoid going out on me at Rend Lake in Illinois and since then it has never starnded me or my family. We all love the boating and swimming and tubing/skiiing in the summer time and I can't wait to get out on the water again. I just got back from Osan Korea on the 8 March 2008 and trying to get back to normal life again. I will let you know how the carb rebuild turns out I am nervous and anxious at the same time. I bought my rebuild kit yesterday off of Ebay and hopefully will be here by the weekend if not should be here next week for sure. Take care, Bob