1073 60hp triumph

Model# 60173C, 1971 not 1073, fat fingers

I get intermittent fire on the spark tester. Great compression and all but troubleshooting the ignition.
Tore apart the control box and of course need to replece the connections as mild corrosion and going to replace the ignition switch also.
There is a little hard brown ball on a wire connected between the ignition switch and the push button gear selector, what is this? Iit was warm to the touch and when I used the vtvm meter it was drawing current with the key in the run position?
Also can I disconnect the wiring harness at the motor and fully eliminate the remote and turn the starter by touching the starter post to see if I am getting any spark. This will eliminate a faulty ignition switch if I am able to do this.
Do I need to jump any wires on the motor to get the ignition to fire if I eliminate the ignition switch for test purposes. Thanks for the replies,WAV.

Re: 1073 60hp triumph

The hard ball is a blocking diode that feeds the shift. If it goes bad you can't shut the motor off. Yes, it gets warm.

I would be hesitant to start disconnecting stuff and trying to run the motor. It is easy to blow the amplifier and/or rectifier with just one simple mistake.

Re: 1073 60hp triumph

eliminate the ignition switch, it should run, jump solenoid. will have to choke to shut down.. really highly recommend removing prop during testing. as this is an hydro electric shift. that defaults to forward, so when it starts the prop is going to be engaged. i have a 71 50.

Re: 1073 60hp triumph

Thanks for the replies,

I got it in my shop, on the maintenance rack and suspended from the overhead with the chain hoist so prop is four inches above the concrete, spark plugs out and the wires shunted to ground except for the one I am testing.

Tested foot while cranking engine, it does go in forward n reverse.
Reading up in the factory manual of ignition tests but the factory manual says to have battery connected or maybe damage to components?

Original symptoms from previous owners was it would not run, then run sometimes for a few mins n shut down. I will test the coil tomorrow after I get back from the office. Who am I kidding I will go through every test in the manual. Thanks for the replies and advice. Wav.

Re: 1073 60hp triumph

...and dont forget to clean all the connections, especially the ground.

Re: 1073 60hp triumph

Yes definately corrosion control time. Under the cowl they really look good, not exposed to salt environment.
The remote box and ignition switch definately will get the connectors replaced, soldered on and them environmentally sealed, heat shrink so as not to cause any more future problems. Thanks for the advice. WAV.

Re: 1073 60hp triumph

The 1971 has the Motorola Amplifier CD ignition system with breaker points. It is battery powered through the ignition switch. Everything must be hooked up in order for it to run. Your manual is right on....try running it without the battery or with improper connections and it's goodby $$$$.

Re: 1073 60hp triumph

Looking at the wiring diagram, I just need to supply +12vdc to terminal #6 this is the Positive for the clipper circuit and the amplifier.
I can leave the ignition switch and associated wiring out of circuit as long as I feed that Motorola Amplifier the +12 it needs.

For that matter it looks lke a simple ballast resistor and automotive coil can replace the amplifier if need be. Well then again I may need a second cup of coffee. Mind not kicked in not enough caffeine. I will take the manual to the office today, do not know how much reading I will get done as Monday's are a pain.

Thanks for the replies,WAV.

Re: 1073 60hp triumph

Ran some tests after I got in from the office.

Spark test from the coil, no spark.

Continuity test from white/black stripe wire to points, spin flywheel by hand, points open and close, infinity and short, although this is not an indication the points are set right they are at least opening and closing on the lobe.

Amp meter between power source and power lead for the amplifier, no current draw with key in the run position, bad amp.

Removed amplifier assy and coil.

Replaced with the following parts.

$14.98 for a 1965 Ford coil requiring external resistor.
$3.24 for 1965 Ford condensor.
$7.77 for a chrome coil holder.

Ballast resistor I had laying around the shop. 4 ohm wire round ceramic type.
A few electrical connectors, some wire and about 30 minutess worth of work the old rude comes to life.

I get her mounted on the 16' skeeter this weekend, wired up and hopefully see how she is going to do. Thanks for all the advice and tips,WAV.

Re: 1073 60hp triumph

Hi, I have heard a few stories about doing away with the amp. Can you send specific info (my 71 60hp seems to be doing the same) and does it really work (long haul or short time band-aid).

grybski


grybski1@yahoo.com