[rernst]

I'm making progress. Was going to try to fire the engine, even without changing impeller and rebuilding carb, just to see if I could at least make it cough.

I have the type of fuel pump that has the removeable glass fuel bowl, and a filter inside that as well. Problem is I saw the crud in there so removed it, cleaned it all up, soaked the filter that was inside, and it's falling apart.

Reinstalled, but it won't seal, old seal is just too old/hard/cracked, as it leaks at the edge VERY badly.

Can I buy just that gasket, or can I make one from something? I suppose I could use some old inner tube, at least for a test firing.

I don't want to buy a whole fuel pump repair kit if all it needs is the gasket.

How about the filter inside, anyone know if that, or a modern replacement is available?

Thanks,

Rich

[tashasdaddy]

leave the filter out. try to make a gasket just to fire it off. filter $6.95 and kit $15.95 at laingsoutboards.com.

[rernst]

Yup, made one from an old tube and since I have an inline filter in the hose from the tank I did leave the filter out.

Unfortunately, since the recoil starter was removed at some point before I got ahold of it, the relief when cranking doesn't work and it cranks REALLY slow, even with a good battery and direct connections. Shoot.

I don't see a solution to that other than finding a recoil starter for it with the gadget that relieves cylinder pressure.

Or should the starter be able to crank this thing without the compression relief, maybe the starter is worn out? Seems to go ok, just drawing a lot of current as it SLOWLY turns the engine over as compression comes up on each cylinder.

Or should I start another thread for this?

[rernst]

Oh, and speaking of gaskets, do I need a "kit" to clean the carb, or can it be removed, cleaned, and reassembled without one (again, at least to try to start it)?

[tashasdaddy]

get the kit. the start should be able to turn it. the compression relief only work off the recoil start. it was attached to the recoil not the flywheel. pull the starter and take it to an alternator/starter shop for testing. they can rebuild cheaper than new.

[rernst]

Wow, it kicked!

On a whim, I took a thing like a turkey baster and put some gas/oil mix in it and squirted it as best I could into the carb.

Then, using wooden dowels, I held the relief valves open, then connected the battery and it cranked well, I released the reliefs and it ran for a few seconds!

So off the carb comes, apparently I have to take the starter off to get to the nuts that hold it, but that doesn't look that hard, and apparently the starter is OK after all, just needed to get some gas/oil into the crankcase.

[rernst]

Feelin' frustrated, so I went ahead and removed the carb, took it apart, (nice and simple, I liked that), did some basic scraping of crud out and cleanup, and ensured passeges at least flowed something. Put it back on and after a bunch of fiddling with choke (I'd flooded it.. got it to run and keep running!

Needs tuning up, I think, but it's getting spark, compression and fuel now and runs. Surprisingly, it even kept running at an "idle", and went into both forward and reverse without stalling. And the water pump is doing it's job just great too, surprised me a lot.

Now to hook get my steering re-installed (wish it had a tiller too) and I can at least take it for a quick spin around the bay here to see if it runs better opened up more or not. Then re-check lower unit for water in lube, etc.

Any tips on setting the high and low speed mixture adjustments? Generally I'd get it nice and warmed up, and then adjust the high speed, in, then out 'til it seems to just run the best, then let it idle and adjust the low speed the same, finally, re-checking the high speed jet to ensure it's still where I want it.

I'm running 24/1 gas/oil, I'll have to check the seloc manual to see if it's got roller bearings throughout, and if so, probably go with 50/1 or closer to that.

Does this thing need premium gas, or can I run 87 octane regular unleaded?

Thanks, everyone, for all your help, not only in this thread, but other's on this same engine.

Now to go do some of the things on my wife's list...

[tashasdaddy]

before you take it out, remove the inspection plate on the flywheel, make sure the coils are not cracked, or discolored. unless they have been changed recently,, they are known to get hot and fail, bring the paddle.

1960 is a 24-1 mix, 87 is fine.

if your coils look like this. they are shot.