I'm running this boat with a 9.9 nissan and will also have a 6hp backup due to where I fish being pretty desolate. I need to replace the transom wood, is there a way to build the transom so I can mount the 6 and 10hp on there so I don't have to have the 6 riding in the boat? I'd think it would be light enough to run back there fully tilted providing it is out of the water. Let me know if I am way off base on this. If so, does anyone have a good way to carry a backup?
One more thing, how can I figure out the weight capacity of this little guy?
I don't have any experience doing what you propose, but I bet it would limit your space/room at the pilot's seat. Would be easier I think to stow the 6 in a couple of big trash bags and keep it up in the bow, maybe with some padding around it.
Hi Charkbait,
I did something similar as my Alumacraft V16 from factory would not accomodate 25 hp main & 6 hp (4 str) spare, mounted. It is quite do-able and I think that the best place for a spare is mounted alongside the main, rather than in the boat.
I will try to post picture(s) but if you would like to PM me with your address, I can fwd. pictures as attachment to an e-mail because I know how to do that.
Dovekie, post you pictures, so we all can learn from them.
charkbait, if the transom is wide enough, you can mount side by side, providing the transom is high enough to handle the weight, and not get swamped. keeping the load balanced, it will effect the way the boat handles tough.
we all need to support iboats marine store when ever possible. you get, competitive prices. fast shipping, top notch customer service. also it provides us, this great FREE forum.
Attached is my first attempt to post picture of boat; after hauling up from trip Friday past. I hope that it is not too large. Unfortunately, there is no application on this computer to reduce file size.
you can up load to a free service like photobucket.com then you choose the pictures you want( clik the little box at the bottom left of the picture) scrool to the bottom of the page, clik generate html, it will take you to the next page, scroll down to thumb nails clik on that and copy, then insert it into your post.
also if you are planing on posting pictures, you can use the Blue post reply or the go advanced, manage attachments, there you can upload , directly from your computer. besure you pictures have been resized to fit the format. 640x480 max.
_________
we all need to support iboats marine store when ever possible. you get, competitive prices. fast shipping, top notch customer service. also it provides us, this great FREE forum.
You could surely build the transom strong enough to hold 2 motors.
You could experiment by raising the 9.9 until just before venting becomes a problem Be sure it pumps water.Then bulild the transom to that height.
To figure a boats capacity I usually use the demensions of the boat and compare to present day new boats at their various sites.Compare as many specs as possible.If you think a little water over the transom may be a problem add a pan inside with a couple a drains.
A few more images. Please advise if explanation is required.
The last two images, I think, show an interim step when I raised counter by fastening a lamination of ash/epoxy to existing transom cap to determine whether the height /configuration would work. I ran boat with this for a few months before raising entire bulworks by ~ 3&1/2". Some measurement is necessary to ensure that you have sufficient space to mount your two motors without interference, correct height so that anti-vent plate is ~ level with hull at mounted location, etc.
I think the suggestion(s) that you might be able to mount & run bot motors have some merit, but own situation dictate. I think that actual measurement of Nissan, and possibly other motors is ~ 22 &1/2" from counter to anti-vent plate, presumably to minimize blow-out, ensure water p/u but best to check this yourself.
Hope this helps.
I neglected to say Thank you to the folks who gave advice on posting etc. Sometime, will fwd pictures of the land & sea scape here if that's of interest.
Last edited by Dovekie : March 9th, 2008 at 10:45 PM.
Reason: see msg body
This is my setup, what do I need to do to the transom wood to be able to run a set up like the above post. Is it as simple as extending the tansom wood plate all the way across the transom for a 6hp? What type of wood should I use, I know NOTHING about boats as you can tell.
Charkbait,
Nice boat. From picture, it looks like your transom runs straight across full width of stern, so you probably won't have to adjust the transom height to accomodate spare motor. I assume that both motors have same shaft length (20" nominal?).
Width of my transom at top is 63" and at chines (~ water line where splash rail meets stern) is 54". It looks that your boat is a little narrower at transom, so you might(!) be a little tight for space with both mounted. Simplest way to resolve this is by experiment, ie. mounting both motors, with spare in operating position and also tipped up for running only with main (9.9).
I can't tell from your photo details of your transom construction. Is there a wooden transom core inside the stern (ie. where motor mount screws tighten onto stern)? & if so, how much of the stern aluminum does this cover? This info is important in two respects, one being whether you would have to extend mounting area (wood) inside as well as outside, and second wrt amount of support & rigidity that afford to your transom with two motors mounted when on water & esp. trailering.
There is a wooden mounting plate on outside of the stern for your main, and if you are to mount spare beside the main, one approach is to replace this with mounting plate sufficiently wide to accomodate both motors (for final install). For testing/experiment, I think that you can use a piece of plywood alongside the original outside mounting plate. A piece or two of two-sided tape can hold this in place whilst you're fussing with mounting the spare & clamps will secure for float/water test.
It may be useful if you're serious about this to scrounge or buy a 1/2 or full sheet of exterior, or better yet, marine plywood (1/2" thick is practical) and buy a qty of epoxy, hardner & 6" cloth, sufficient to seal/protect all your wood, once you've figured out the size & thickness of wood that you need, inside &/or outside existing Al on transom, but again it is a simple matter to experiment with ply or other material cut to size before committing. A hint is that measuring tape & paper or scrap cardboard, traced & cut as templates can save $ & aggravation. There are lots of links on the web wrt construction / repair of botas & wood preparation using epoxy as an adhesive & sealer. There are cheaper means to do this that can work well for a long time but will have to be replaced. It's your time & money.
A consideration with narrower boat & transom is that weight away from the centreline can make the boat a little more 'tippy'. Ideally when running with one motor & spare, the main is on centreline, but you might have to offset the main to accomodate your spare. This thrust offset from centreline (keel) can also make the boat less stable esp. in lighter craft, but it's not uncommon for people to have two motors mounted and run only on one much of the time. I suspect that one of the most important things in boating is how the operator behaves and prepares for problems. Others have said this much better. The stern of your boat looks relatively flat & may tolerate these these effects a little more than v-bottom, at least at rest.
A float test with both motors mounted as you'd like them & other stuff loaded as you would for travelling will give you a sense of how the boat rests in water with spare mounted, and some careful maneuvering (at first) under power likewise hint at how the boat will probably behave in new configuration, and what adjustment(s) are necessary to trim it out properly.
Two other things.
I can't tell for sure from your pic, but looks that your prop & anti-ventilation plate are well below bottom of the boat. You do have a 20" counter & long-shaft motor? As mentioned earlier in this thread & elsewhere, you can get some improvement in performance by raising motor a little, unless in fact you have a long shaft mounted on a 15" transom when significant changes are recommended in mounting or motor.
Extra weight on the transom can deform your hull when trailering if bunks do not reach all the way to the stern. I try to keep weight in boat balanced & least practical, esp. for long distance travel over rough country and launching if dry launch/retreive is necessary.
Thank you for the very informative post. I'll let you know how it turns out. I believe I will just extend the outter transom plate the width of the boat. In order to run the spare I would slide the primary off center and then center the spare if needed. I also do not plan to trailer with the motors on transom since I will be traveling long distances in most cases and also in the dark so I'd rather not worry about them.
The reasoning for mounting both is that I will be able to run the auxilary much easier when I get out. I plan to run it a good bit to avoid any surprises if and when I need it. I would not be likely to run it if I had to pull it out of the boat, mount it while on the water etc.
14' aluminum v-hull transom
Linear Mode
