Just read your previous posts, and am going to now assume you have access to a DVA meter.
Have you tested the trigger resistance and DVA output on all 4? They should read as follows.
Wire Color : Check to Wire Color : Resistance : DVA Reading
White wire : Purple : 35-55 : 0.6V or more Connected
White wire : Blue wire : 35-55 : 0.6V or more Connected
White wire : Green wire : 35-55 : 0.6V or more Connected
White wire : Pink : 35-55 : 0.6V or more Connected
Leave the orange wire from you PP connected to the corresponding coil, and check the DVA output. If you're not getting at least 150V, there are issues. If it is low, disconnect the coil, and wire in a load resistor of the appropriate size. Now re test. If the reading is now at the 150V, your coil is shot. If you are still below the 150V mark, your PP is likely shot.
OK Im having a bit of trouble understanding the way you laid out your test results.
The cylinders that are not putting out at least 150 V, swap the coil with one that is. If you are now getting the 150 V, that coil is likely shot. If it is still low, your power pack is acting up.
If I am reading your response correctly, it seems as if your trigger DVA outputs are low as well, yet resistance ok? Is this correct?
trigger dva outputs are low all the way around. trigger ohms are on the low side.
on the stator all checks out except for one which has no continuity.
i have swapped coils, all coils will fire if hooked up to a hole that has a signal.
i changed the format of the test results a little, hopefully they are more understandable. the view changes when it posts. maybe this will help you out a bit more. thanks for the feedback.
unplug the wiring harness, the big red connector. this willeliminate all wiring that goes to the remote or ignition switch.
you will need a remote starter switch or just use jumper cables to the starter terminal to spin the engine.
the engine will run if it starts so be prepared to choke it untils it stops.
with the wiring harness unplugged and all spark plugs removed, test for spark, the engine will spin faster.
ground the other spark plug wires that u are not testing so only the on under test is firing.
test each one and note results, then start changing a known good coil with a suspected bad coil so you can eliminate coils one at a time, if the problem does not turn out to be coils and all spark good then further trouble shoting will be required.
Process of elimination as it seems you have multiple problems involved.
when you tested the rectifier? ohm test? really nee3d to remove the two yellow wires from circuit to totally eliminate the rectifier as a possible cause.
you are the eyes and ears so just let us know what you find,
there is hundreds of years of combined knowledge here so you will eventually get it figured out, hopefuly without throwing to many more parts at it
One step at a time until you eliminate the multiple problems, as the symptoms could be several different components in the system so by eliminating one by one should be able to get to the root cause and eliminate it. Replace defective component/components and get you on the water
The rectifier test is to check that the diodes are good; on or off, then reverse the probes to be sure that current can't flow back to the ignition components. Joe Reeves has good posts in the Engine FAQ forum on testing the rectifiers. http://forums.iboats.com/forumdisplay.php?f=31
When you do the other components' testing the safest and surest way is with the rectifier disconnected.
It may mean that you have cleaned up all the wiring connections in the process of all the part changes.
The fact that you got fire on all 4 with the plugs out is part of why you test for spark with the plugs out; with the plugs out, there is nothing (compression) to slow down the engine, so it reaches the necessary minimum of 250 RPM easily. It is amazing how much money is spent on ignition components when a new, more powerful battery or some new battery cables was what was needed.
Burned contacts within the starter solenoid can also slow down the starter, but you can check that, and the cables, with a simple voltage drop test using your voltmeter.
This is where you need some form of tachometer to insure that you are indeed able to turn the minimum of 250 RMP cranking speed as specified in your owner's manual and your service manual.
Have you yet tried to operate the motor with the rectifier disconnected? If not you should.
I have no idea why you are using 24 Volts. 12 Volts is more than adequate and would be a much better test. If your battery is inadequate, use two in parallel.
The battery and its voltage have nothing whatever to do with the ignition system unless you have a bad rectifier. The battery is their to turn the starter motor and nothing else.
Your motor can run all day without a battery or any source of 12 volts.
1983 90hp evinrude ignition problem
Linear Mode
