Changing power head update

chris0061

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 17, 2007
Messages
446
Frank, if your still out there, I got my powerhead and all looks good. It has everything on it including the exhaust tube. I got a CD off eBay but can't fallow it well so I ordered a Clymer off eBay and will wait for it to get here, I'm just trying to get up the guts to tackle this job. Also, I went to drain the lower unit and (yup), I pulled the shift pin instead. I move nothing and put it back in and then learned on my CD that if this pin is removed you have to tear off the lower gear housing and put it back in. I have read some posts on this tonight and then went out and put it into gear and the prop did not move, I took it out of gear and the prop spun freely, I put it in reverse the prop held. Do you think I'm OK there, also how much play should there be in the prop when in gear. Thanks Frank and all the others on this wonderful site. I can only hope I can become as informed as you all to help someone down the road. Chris
 

Frank Acampora

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 19, 2007
Messages
12,004
Re: Changing power head update

If if you didn't move anything, and if it's going into both gears and neutral, then you are probably all right.

When in gear, the prop can be rotated someplace around 1/2 the distance of a prop blade--maybe more. I never paid much attention, but it's a lot. The reason for this is that the drive dogs have clearance between them. That is, the dogs themselves are a good bit smaller than the space between them. If there was no clearance, it would be VERY difficult if not impossible to get the dog teeth to engage. To demonstrate this to yourself, hold your hands facing each other with fingertips almost touching, with the fingers bent, and each finger about 1 finger's width apart. Now while rotating each hand in an opposite direction, try to intertwine your fingers--can't do it. Now spread your fingers say 2-3 widths apart. Much easier now to entwine them while slowly rotating.

Additionally, once the prop is snugged up on the shaft, you should be able to pull out and push in the shaft about .007-.010 inch. This is called "end float". If you pay attention, you will be able to feel it as a very slight click as you push then pull the shaft.

Not to scare you--just for info: The standard internal shims are .054 as a starter with other sizes replacing it to correct end float. So: if the prop shaft moves more than .010 up to about 1/16 inch or more, then one of the internal shims is missing or incorrect. (.054 plus .010 = .064. 1/16 is .0625)
 

chris0061

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 17, 2007
Messages
446
Re: Changing power head update

OK I think I'm good frank on the end play and everything. Thanks allot for your knowledge and I'll let you know how the power-head went. Thanks again.
 

chris0061

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 17, 2007
Messages
446
Re: Changing power head update

Success. Everything went well. Now I am going to rebuild the carbs but it the other head sounds great. Thanks to Frank and everyone else. This site is fantastic.....
 
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