1964 Evinrude 40 hp Lark 6 lower unit

jakestevens · #1 February 11th, 2008, 07:55 PM

Hey everyone! I just joined the forum, and I'm gathering much info so far, thanks.
I just bought an old fishing boat with a 1964 Evinrude 40 hp Lark 6. I put the boat in the water and ran it for about 5 min. I let the boat sit overnight with the motor down. When I arrived home today, I noticed milky fluid leaking from behind the prop. I removed the prop and the 4 screws at the back of the torpedo housing. I removed the piece which the 4 screws was holding and of course everything is milky white. This is obviously water entering the lower unit.

What seals would be the culprit for this problem? What is my next step in this process?
I have some experience with Mercruiser lower units, but never had my hands on anything like this. I wanted to get some input from some of you guys on this.
Thanks a lot.

tashasdaddy · #2 February 11th, 2008, 08:07 PM

Welcome to iboats. sounds like you are in for a complete reseal, is the best way to go. looking at my manual you are going to need one. it shows it is an electric shift. manual "http://www.outboardbooks.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=models.main&year=1964&ID=5390 1"

jakestevens · #3 February 11th, 2008, 08:44 PM

thanks for the info. Where on the engine would I find the model #? There were several listing on the website for 1964 40 hp envinrude outboards.
thanks again.

F_R · #4 February 11th, 2008, 08:45 PM

Most people tear the wires off the shift coils the first time they take one of those things apart. A very expensive mistake. Get a manual and DON'T let the torpedo section drop down when you unbolt it.

F_R · #5 February 11th, 2008, 08:47 PM

Model number

jakestevens · #6 February 16th, 2008, 06:35 PM

I have the manual and it is very informative and will be a great tool during the tear down. Is there a part # for a complete seal kit for this outboard?
The manual shows that I will have to completely tear down the outboard to replace the seals. Is this the case? If so, I feel confident about it, just don't want to do more than I have to.
Thanks everyone..

F_R · #7 February 16th, 2008, 07:50 PM

You do not have to completely tear it down unless it is leaking where the lower case joins the upper one...and they generally don't leak there unless one of the studs is broken. Drive shaft seal is under the water pump and accessable once the pump is off. You already see how to replace the prop shaft seal because you have the bearing head out. Don't forget the little o-rings on the 4 screws holding that part in.

evinice66 · #8 February 17th, 2008, 02:27 AM

i dont really know anyhing compared to anyone on this site but if the fluid smells like gas it could be unburned gas and oil, in the faq section is where i read that.....

jakestevens · #9 February 17th, 2008, 11:07 AM

Thanks for the info. Is there a part # for ordering the seals and orings for this outboard?

HighTrim · #10 February 17th, 2008, 11:10 AM

Here is one option. About $21.95 for the kit, halfway down the page.

"http://www.laingsoutboards.com/newpage4.htm"

jakestevens · #11 February 17th, 2008, 11:37 AM

I have the electric shift model.

Would it make sense to replace the impeller, being that I'm right there anyway?
I did just purchase the boat and I'm unsure about the last time the impeller was replaced.

steelespike · #12 February 17th, 2008, 11:45 AM

Definately do the impeller.

jakestevens · #13 February 21st, 2008, 11:47 PM

I removed the lower unit and I believe I found the cause of the water in the gear case. The seal on the impeller housing was broken and also the impeller housing is damaged. Looks like someone try to pry the seal out of the housing at one time and damaged it. Is the impeller housing something that is hard to find?

HighTrim · #14 February 21st, 2008, 11:58 PM

Laings carries the housing.

"http://www.laingsoutboards.com/newpage4.htm"