[tex599]

I have a 1972, 50hp Evinrude Electric shift that I am in the process of replacing the wire harness and upper seals. Tonight I removed the soldnoid cover, to pull the old wire out and brought to light several questions. I do have the service manual for reference. When you pull the cover off there is the wave washer, with a green grease smeared all over it, is it necessary to replinish this? Does it matter, which way the wave washer is placed? If so, what type of grease is it? The upper solidnoid pulled out when removing the wire, I just pushed it back in? Will this cause problems, in the manual it says to make sure plunge rod is even with top of solidnoid? While it looks flush, I am not positive. Are the measurements mentioned in the manual only if removing and rebuilding the lower unit?

As far as the upper oil seal (bearing housing), is there a way to remove this without the OMC special tool. It looks as if this bearing is pressed in and must be removed in order to replace this seal.

The reason for replacing cable is it was cut and cracked and had water in the lower unit. Does anybody that works with these engines know where it is prone to leak. I did a pressure test and could not find/or hear leak. I think it was leaking from the cable. I apologize for the long question, I am a little nervous about this lower unit because it is electric shift and I am not very familiar with the insides. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

Tex

[F_R]

I don't know why anybody would have put the grease in there. It's not normal. Just put the wave washer in any old way, just has to be in there. Don't mess with the solenoid adjustments unless somebody else already has, they don't get out of adjustment by themselves. As for the seals, are you sure you need to remove the bearing? That doesn't sound right. The seals should just pry out from the top, at least on any that I have seen.

Don't be so anxious about the electric shift. They aren't all that bad and it won't bite you. Actually, they are an extremely good unit, with water intrusion being about their only enemy other than oil contamination (crud from not changing it like you are supposed to). But the water problem applies to mechanical shift units too.

[tex599]

Thanks for the advice. So as long as it was shifting normal before, it should be fine as long as I push the solidnoids and shaft back in?

[Dhadley]

Don't get confused, it's not an electric shift - it's a hydro-electric shift. They're 2 different things. Yes, the plunger has to be in as per the OE manual.

[tashasdaddy]

f it doesn't go back in the right place, it will not activate the valve.

[tex599]

How do I know if it went back into the right place? Is there a click or something that let's me know that I put it in the right the place?
Thanks

[Dhadley]

When it's not in place the rod & plunger won't be close to being seated right.

[tex599]

Thanks, guys. I think it is seated properly. Won't know until I put it back together and try to run it.

[F_R]

As amazing as it sounds, you can bench test it. secure the gearcase somehow to hold it down, attach the neg wire from a 12v battery to the case and the pos wire to the green solenoid lead. Wrap a nylon rope around the drive shaft one turn and holding both ends, pull on one end, spinning the shaft clockwise, like a boy scout starting a fire with a stick and bow. It should shift into neutral. It will go back into forward as soon as you stop turning the shaft. Do the same thing with the pos wire connected to both green and blue wires, spin the shaft and it will go into reverse. Note that it's harder to turn in reverse...that's normal. The shaft only has to rotate about a turn to make it shift.
Edit: remove the water pump first to make it easier to spin the shaft