[jdcoombs]

I'm doing some repairs on my "new" toy, but there are a few things I haven't quite figured out. My Clymers manual doesn't show enough detail.
I presume the linkage is meant to have a lot of flex for movement between the motor and housing.
Thing is, I've got a LOT of play in it, and I wanted to see if it needed bushings or if worn-out parts need to be replaced.
What is this roller on the end of the lever inside the housing?
It looks like a pin of some sort belongs in the shaft, but there wasn't. I shoved a nail in as a temp fix.
There are 2 screws that hold on the outer arm. Do they do anything but hold it on and provide adjustment? Looks like I may be missing a piece. Where might a find a diagram or a go-by sketch?
Thanx

[F_R]

The shift interlock lever is missing. It is a notched brass lever that pivots in the center and prevents shifting at high speeds, as well as establishing the correct "start" throttle setting. The roller rides in notches in the interlock lever.

Slop is worn out parts. The cure for that is to replace them. The two screws in the handle secure it to the mating part and establish the handle position so the remote controls can match.

There is an exploded parts diagram at BRP's website.

[jdcoombs]

Thanks, FR
I had gone to BRP, but their diagram is quite general and didn't include this part.
Does the shift interlock pivot on the same rod as everything else, or does it pivot on a separate screw or something. I'll obviously have to be ordering this part...
Also, there is a cut-out switch? that seems to be functional, but it's not hooked up. I presume this is to momentarily cut the RPM just when you shift it into gear? What actuates it?
Is it possible to get specific manuals for these old engines?
Thanks again.

[F_R]

This is a interlock bar, albeit from a different size motor. But the idea is the same. It pivots about the shoulder bolt in the center. The roller rides in the notches at the bottom.
Yes, I noticed your vacuum switch is not connected. Everybody disconnects those things thinking it will make their motor run better---it doesn't. It operates off of intake manifold vacuum and it's purpose is to prevent "run-away". If for some reason you rev one of those motors up in neutral, it will go berserk, revving higher and higher, and you can't slow it down. The vacuum switch senses that condition and cuts out the ignition till it slows back down. Depending on the year, the starting switch is also connected to it to prevent starting at high throttle settings.

[Chinewalker]

Frank is right on the money. The interlock bar's pivot point is about halfway up the crankcase, above the vacuum switch. It would be held in place by a shoulder bolt, and would also have a compression spring at the top - you'll see a pencil eraser sized nub sticking out of the side of the crankcase up near the armature.
- Scott

[jdcoombs]

Thanks again, y'all. Found it, now trying to locate the lever. I'll have this sucker up'n runnin soon.