[scottc0823]

I'm having a starter problem with my 93 Evi 150. 1When you turn the ignition, it 'spins', but apparently doesnt engage the flywheel. A mechanic told me there is a little 'bendix' (?sp) pin that pushes up to engage the flywheel and likely that is not happening. He did not pull it apart but was only speculating, and told me that it could be voltage as well. I hooked up my charger (on 10amp) and same, only spins but doesnt engage. After reading some of the forum replies seems I should still troubleshoot voltage since could be wiring or at the solenoid. Dont have a volt meter but can get one and test wiring I guess, but i'm trying to sell this and the guy wants it done quickly so looking for fastest alternative vs taking to a mechanic. Wondering if the fact it is 'spinning' the starter but not engaging points exactly to just one thing and appreciate any ideas.

Tks,

[rndn]

You may want ot clean all wiring connections from the battery through the starter. Not check, but clean with emery cloth and re-assemble.

[tashasdaddy]

take your fingers and turn the gear, the opposite way the starter turns. it should climb up the post. a few drops of 3 n 1 oil, is all the lube it needs.

90% of starter problems are bad connections. remove and clean both ends of the battery cables, so that they are shiney, also the cable from the solenoid to starter. check for nicks in the cables. and make sure the connectors are on the wire good. the cable tend to corrode from the inside out, if nicked, corroded wires, and connections, heat up and cause resistance to the follow of electricity, thus the starter doesn't get enough. you can also take jumper cable pos battery post to large post on starter. with a good connection, the engine should spin. then if the starter is good clean everything and retest. then trouble shoot solenoid. starters can be rebuit at a starter/alternator shop, much cheaper than a new one.

also have the battery load tested at the auto parts store, free, i've had new batteries go bad

[scottc0823]

Exactly the kind of advice I was looking for guys - thanks.

I'm not exactly familiar with the gear layout but the boating parts store near me showed me the gears you are speaking of and also said it could be that. I now just need to locate those but shouldnt be a problem given the schematics i've found online before.

Tks again!
Scott

[HighTrim]

This is the spet mentioned to oil with 3 in 1 oil, or a sewing machine oil. Something light, and not too much. If you spin the bendix a 1/4 turn and she now fires up, the brushes in the starter may need rebuilding.

"http://12.2.215.22/pub/default.asp?SessionId=974175be49584fe8b9eac4b45988 9c41&Lang=EN"

1) Battery Load tested and charged to 12.65 volts?

2) With that battery out of the boat (because I know you are getting it load tested right ) it is a good time to polish those connections like previously stated. Don’t just look at them, make them shine! Also inspect the wiring thoroughally, buldges in the insulation or crunching as you flex it are a sure sign that the wiring is corroded internally. Replace as needed.

3) With the cables clean and tight and a good battery, you can now see if the problem occurs. If it doesn't you are golden. If it still doesn't work or works sporadically, check and clean the remaining cable connections on the solenoid and the starter. Once again, don’t just look at them, make them shine.

4) If it now works you are ready to go fishing. If not, use a short jumper wire to short the small terminal on the solenoid to the large terminal on the solenoid (the one that has the POSITIVE battery cable connected to it). Be prepared for a spark. You are really doing the same thing that the ignition key does in the START position. If the engine spins fine every time, you either fixed the problem, or if not, the problem is in the harness between the engine and ignition switch.

5) Disconnect and inspect the large red harness plug in the cowl. Clean it as best you can with electrical contact cleaner, smear some grease around the contact edges and reconnect. Now use the ignition switch to try and start the engine. If it works every time the connector was the culprit. If not, you now need your trusty voltmeter.

6) Put the POS voltmeter lead on the small terminal on the solenoid. The NEG lead goes to ground. Have someone turn the ignition key to START. If you don't see 12V troubleshoot the harness between the engine and control box. If 12V is present every time, the switch is good.

7) Measure the voltage at the starter (+) terminal while somebody turns the key over to "start" - if you get within half a volt or so of the battery voltage, the starter is faulty.

Bad voltage at starter (with clean tight connections), measure the voltage at the solenoid small terminal with the yellow/red wire with the key turned over to "start" you should read within a half-volt of battery voltage, otherwise you have a wiring fault between the keyswitch & solenoid. Good voltage at solenoid but bad voltage at starter means faulty solenoid.

8) Now connect a single jumper cable between the POS battery terminal and directly to the large terminal on the starter. If the starter spins each time you do that, the solenoid is likely the culprit.

9) Connect another jumper cable to the NEG battery terminal and a good ground (bare bolt head or bracket) on the engine. Now do the same test you did in step 8. If the starter now goes ok, you still have a negative battery cable problem or the solenoid is bad.

[Dhadley]

Remember this is a gear reduction starter so it'll be a little different. It'd be worth it to pull the flywheel cover off and see if one of the gears is busted. At least you'll get a better idea of what is or isn't happening.

[scottc0823]

all - thanks again for the great advice. i'll get to work on it.