[Lostuzer]

Hello,

If this topic has been discussed before I plead with you for directions to the place. Unfortunately I couldn't find any information concerning my problem.

I bought an Evinrude 1961 75HP Starflite III Mod. 50525 SN. 04272 and have been going through it to assertain what I have. So far everything "looks" favorable (lower unit, compression, ext.) except for a problem with shifting. Little is said in my service manual; actually all mention of this area I have uploaded for you to see.

My question is: To replace the Lever/(Bellcrank) and the shiftrod will I have to pull the power head and if so where can I get good instruction?

Thanks,
Bob

[F_R]

Yes, you have to remove the powerhead, then the powerhead adapter plate. If you want to get the shift shaft out, keep going and remove the bolts from the lower rubber mount and lift the exhaust housing out of the "shell".

[DHPMARINE]

I certainly don't envy your challenge here.That is a lot of work to do.

One thing about the hard shifting ..... are you running the motor or at least turning the prop shaft when shifting problems occur?

Unless the prop shaft is turning,it will be hard to put in gear.

DHP

[Chris1956]

bob, Can you "work" the bell crank from the rear of the motor? since you have removed the outer casing in the rear, it seems to my memory, that you may be able to get to it. Remove the shift rod connector, remove the lower unit, spray the bellcrank with PB Blaster, remove the shift rod at the shift cable, and exercize the snot out of it. When it turns free, grease it.

[F_R]

Originally Posted by DHPMARINE

I certainly don't envy your challenge here.That is a lot of work to do.

One thing about the hard shifting ..... are you running the motor or at least turning the prop shaft when shifting problems occur?

Unless the prop shaft is turning,it will be hard to put in gear.

DHP

Yes, it may be an intimidating job, especially for a novice. Actually, it isn't all that hard. No rocket science or special tools required. Just a bunch of nuts and bolts to take out and put back together, if you are good at remembering how it goes. Of course, I am seeing it from an old pro's viewpoint. It always amazes me how people that don't hesitate to tear into a gearcase will hesitate to pull a powerhead. Piece of cake, heh, heh.

[DHPMARINE]

Thanks,

But I still hope the prop shaft is being turned when trying to shift.

I've never thought pulling a powerhead was hard,unless it didn't fix the problem

DHP

[F_R]

Originally Posted by DHPMARINE

Thanks,

But I still hope the prop shaft is being turned when trying to shift.

I've never thought pulling a powerhead was hard,unless it didn't fix the problem

DHP

Absolute agreement. Always diagnose the problem before tearing into something. His original question concerned the inner clevis, how he knows that it is bad is another topic. It does sound like he has a partially stuck/unable to grease shift shaft though.....if he is turning the prop like supposed to.

[Lostuzer]

F R is correct in confirmed my suspicions that the powerhead would have to be removed even though I would have opted for an easier solution.

You can't see it in the picture but the lower unit has been removed plus all linkage to the shift shaft. The shift shaft is seized. I'm uncertain why, I just bought this motor with a boat and trailer for $100.00.

The inner "lever" moves freely on the shift shaft and can be demonstrated by grabbing the shift rod (at 5 O'clock from the arrow indicated lever "clevice"? in the third picutre) and moving it in and out. The lever moves freely but the shift shaft is seized.

If I find enough time this afternoon I'll pull the power head and do some investigation. Something tells me that the prop shear pin being pretty mangled might have bearing with this investigation also.

Thank you all for your input.
Bob

[dukboat]

If you have a video camera set it up on a tripod and tape the teardown, this way if you forget something you have a quick reference when putting it back together. Good luck with your project!

[F_R]

Shear pin has nothing to do with it. The shift shaft is siezed due to corrosion and/or lack of preventative maintenance (greasing it). You will have to remove it and clean the corrosion out of the hole. Also, make sure the grease passages are open in the shift shaft.

A common problem here in the Salt Swamp.

[Evinrude Boater]

Welcome to iboats. This is the best documented posting I've seen. In fact it has made me realize what's behind that round cover on the side of the exhaust housing...a grease fitting. I've never had a problem with my shift linkage but I'm heading out to my boat tomorrow to grease that baby. Thanks to Clymer manuals for not showing me that fitting.

[Lostuzer]

Admiral F R,
You hit the nail on the head when you said corrosion and lack of PM. The only grease I found was mine, bypassing the stainless to aluminum corrosion which was seizing the shaft. The "O" ring had shrank and fossilized onto a rock allowing the grease to just pour into the exhaust tube.

The dog and forward gear had quite a bit of rounding. More than I'm willing to put up with.

My theory is: The previous owner had been operating the motor with it always in forward (shift shaft frozen). Struck something in the water which caused the dog to slip, move the linkage and create an enormous amount of play at the attachment of the lever to the shift shaft and also bending the bolt head "keep" allowing vibration to further loosen the bolt


The pic of the lever shows how it looked when I took it off. I didn't have to bend the "keep" at all. The bolt easily backed off.


Thank you all,
Bob

[F_R]

Whether hitting something had anything to do with it or not, your experience points out the usually ignored relationship between linkage and clutch dog. A motor jumping in and out of gear due to a worn dog will beat the linkage to pieces. Likewise, worn linkage will cause excessive dog wear from not going completely into gear. It's a vicious circle.

Great pictures!! Note the wear in the flat part of the bellcrank lever hole. You'll have to fix that or it will come loose again. Just hit it with a file so you have flat against flat with no rocking.

[Lostuzer]

Thanks for the input F_R,

I was going to buy another untill you suggested filing it flat. It took less that three minutes to get it flat. Now it works perfectly plus I saved time and money.