Just bought this motor and I'm installing it on my boat, but I dont understand the ignition wiring. I was given a couple solenoids, some wire and a dash panel with the starter and choke buttons on it, but I want to figure out how to wire it.
A specific, or even a general diagram on the subject really would help. I want to get on the water! Thanks.
There should be a wiring junction box that bolts, or screws to the transom. I'll look in the service manual when I get out to the shop later this morning.
WTL, That motor likely has a magneto ignition-based distributor. If so, it will have one condenser, two sets of points and a single coil inside the bottom of the distributor housing(with two magnets). The points are grounded to stop the motor.
The starter solenoid is mounted in the "starter box" that screws to the transom inside the boat. The dashboard needs a push button switch for the electric choke solenoid, a push button or ignition switch to send +12V to the starter solenoid and an "ignition" switch to unground the points when starting the motor.
I'll try and describe this better now. The panel has:
Choke Push/Pull switch
OFF ON START Rubber Button
3 Way toggle switch
Unmarked black button with a purple wire attatched to the back
Amp meter
The bundle coming out of the motor has
12 Gauge Red
12 Gauge Black
small yellow
small black
small black white stripe
greenish
antique white (its old so the wires are faded)
and there is an additional wire not coming out of the bundle that is somewhat brown or could be faded black.
F R, Thanks that diagram does helps some. I think the only part now that I don't understand is the switch plate itself. Which wires go to off/on/start switch? Which ones to the choke? Maybe its my ability to read diagrams that lacking, but thats one part I havent grasped.
I've been looking at the diagram for days and I still can't figure it out. I don't understand the ignitions switch part, am I supposed to have a key switch that turns into the different positions because what came on the panel is just a two posted push button? The diagram has all these different leads going into the ignitions swithc and I just don't get it.
That panel you are showing is not like it came from the factory. Somebody has taken liberties with the switches. Your motor should have an ignition switch and a choke switch at a minimum. From memory, I don't think the 60 had a hot light.
The ignition switch is a semi-special one for magneto equipped outboards. You can not use a battery-ignition (car-type) switch or it will damage the coil (and won't work). If you get yourself an ignition switch of the proper type and hook it up as shown in the diagram, it will work. The inset for the optional ignition switch hookup is pretty clear. The choke switch should be a normally open (n.o.) momentary contact switch. They used a spring loaded toggle type originally, but a push button type will work the same. If you don't have the optional generator kit, just ignore everything concerned with the generator (like the ammeter and regulator)
Do you have a friend that understands electrical circuitry that can help you in exchange for lunch?
Edit: PS, that starting solenoid you are showing...is it for an outboard or is it a look-alike car solenoid? A car solenoid will destroy the safety switch at the magneto--Instantly!!!
Last edited by F_R : January 10th, 2008 at 05:41 PM.
Reason: Added info
This guy gave me 2 solenoids and a bundle of wire. I don't know if they were made for it or not. There isn't much info on either or them. Here is a pic of the other one, it looks decidedly diffferent. 01-10-08_1556.jpg
I went and got a Sierra MP4100 Ignition switch, it says its for magneto push to choke systems, 15 Amps (Ign)-30 Amps(sol)-7 Amps (Choke) at 12 volts DC. It looks a lot more like the one on the diagram.
I know a fellow who could help, but he's 150 miles away and I work every day for the immediate future so thats out. I appreciate all the help though.
The problem is the outboard solenoid and the car ones look exactly alike. But they are different inside. If you have an ohmmeter, put it on Low Ohms scale and attach it's two leads to the two small terminals on the solenoid. (everything else disconnected). If you get a very low or zero ohms reading, you have an outboard solenoid. If you get a very high or infinity reading you have a car solenoid.
Hey F_R, thanks again for the help. I got it all working today. The things a beast, can't wait till I get the steering in and get to take her out on the lake properly.
ok
i have a 1964 ? evinrude 60 hp, mod 60453S ser E05311
ive read related post but i think I'm missing a part
i have the rotor, and distributer cap but there seems to be too much gap between them.
as cyl.1,3 had spark but 2,4 did not .
i changed the points (2), condenser(1)
after change
first spin had good spark on all 4,
put plugs into cyl heads. spin and nothing ,
took alll back out,
all 4 no spark
i may be in need of new cap, rotor ??? if so where do i find?
local parts shop said there is a pc and spring between cap and rotor??
i dont have parts breakdown to look at.
Sleepyman,
You should start your own post.
Yes there is a spring in the cap that rides on the rotor (I think) but that shouldn't make the difference with spark on one side only. You should have to press the distributor cap against the distributor to compress the spring when putting in the screws. Did you gap the points properly?
you're correct but i was very happy to find the help
i have to read how to start a new post.
yes points are gapped ok.
the distributor cap is 3 3/8 x 5 3/4.
covers the coil box at the rear third and has the four wire posts on the forward end.
there is a spring in the cap to make contact with the coil pack contact.
center of the cap has a brass post 3/8 diameter looks to be carbon core
looks as the rotor has been riding on it .
(brass filings around it) but no spring or spinner cap to contact the rotor.
1964 Evinrude 60 HP Ignition wiring
Re: 1964 Evinrude 60 HP Ignition wiring
Linear Mode
