[malubyann]

G'Day All, and a Happy New Year.
I have completed the following that the manual specifies for the removal of the gearcase. Removed shift rod screw and the pin in the linkage, disengaging the shift rod. Then removed the trimtab and bolt. Removed the 5/8 countersunk screw and the bolt in the trimtab cavity. Then removed the four gear case screws. After prising with screwdrivers,flogging with a rubber mallet and shaking,followed by violent shaking. I am still unable to separate the housing from the rest of the motor.
Should the motor have been in gear when the shift rod was removed,manual does not state this.
Have I missed something not written in the manual?
Any advise/help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

[guy74]

The driveshaft might be stuck in the crankshaft. I have never had one stick in the crank, but I've heard others talk about it. One guy said he had put a couple of longer bolts just far enough to stop it from falling more than 3/4 inch, then he ran his on muffs while pulling down on the LU. The vibrations from the motor running lossened the rust bond in the crank/LU splines. I'm sure some others will have more pointers, but this is what I'd try if I had one that wouldn't come off after I took out all of the bolts.
Goodday,
Brian

[malubyann]

Originally Posted by guy74

The driveshaft might be stuck in the crankshaft. I have never had one stick in the crank, but I've heard others talk about it. One guy said he had put a couple of longer bolts just far enough to stop it from falling more than 3/4 inch, then he ran his on muffs while pulling down on the LU. The vibrations from the motor running lossened the rust bond in the crank/LU splines. I'm sure some others will have more pointers, but this is what I'd try if I had one that wouldn't come off after I took out all of the bolts.
Goodday,
Brian

Thanks Brian, The water pump has gone and the motor has not been started for some months .When the water pump went while running on muffs the motor was shut down in seconds so I expect no damage. I need to get the new impeller in to run the motor.It maybe that the shaft is stuck only but I was wondering if it should have been left in forward or reverse gear, perhaps something else?
New Years day In Australia so Cheers for you guys tonight, your turn.LOL.

[guy74]

It should come apart no mater if it's in F/N/R. Normally they say to put it into reverse for taking the linkage apart, since it's easier to get to the bolt that hold it together. If you don't want to try running it, just try cranking it with the starter while someone pulls down on the LU. Might be enough to get it to come apart. If it doesn't move at all, either you missed a bolt somewhere, or the driveshaft is stuck in the crank. If it was the linkage it would move down close to an inch before it stopped. One thing I need to add is to remove the prop before trying either of my suggestions, you don't want it to spin and hurt someone since you are going to be working right next to it.
Happy New Year,
I think I'll sleep the new year in, I'm not the party type.
Brian

[malubyann]

Originally Posted by guy74

It should come apart no mater if it's in F/N/R. Normally they say to put it into reverse for taking the linkage apart, since it's easier to get to the bolt that hold it together. If you don't want to try running it, just try cranking it with the starter while someone pulls down on the LU. Might be enough to get it to come apart. If it doesn't move at all, either you missed a bolt somewhere, or the driveshaft is stuck in the crank. If it was the linkage it would move down close to an inch before it stopped. One thing I need to add is to remove the prop before trying either of my suggestions, you don't want it to spin and hurt someone since you are going to be working right next to it.
Happy New Year,
I think I'll sleep the new year in, I'm not the party type.
Brian

Thanks again, I will give that a try. Yep the prop is off and spark plug caps are pulled off, as well as I removed the fuel line at the pump to make it easier to get my fingers on that $$##@&%% [bad words LOL] screw that holds the shift rod. I had a quiet one last night, [well behaved It is just after 12.30pm here, so your west coast would be around 6.30 PM, Time to start warming up for tonight.cheers

[HighTrim]

If you are sure everything is disconnected, your splines are probably rusted as stated. Try wiggling the flywheel back and forth. IF that doesnt work, use a block of wood and a small sledge on the cavitation plate, a couple light smacks should get her down. Just be careful, when it drops, it will drop fast, so you may want to put the 4 main bolts back in a couple turns to keep from damaging the gearcase. Also remove the prop as stated. When re installing, be sure to add marine grease to the splines.

[rudedude]

Did you get the hidden bolt under the the little skeg looking thing?

That little bolt will hold it as if you hadent removed any bolts at all.

[malubyann]

Originally Posted by rudedude

Did you get the hidden bolt under the the little skeg looking thing?

That little bolt will hold it as if you hadent removed any bolts at all.

Thanks, Yep I got the one in the trim cavity. see next oost and Thanks mate.

[rudedude]

Did you get it to drop down yet?

[malubyann]

Thanks so much for the great input you guys, much appreciated with this disaster. LOL.



I cranked it until I flattened the battery [one from my 6 cylinder diesel Landcruiser].
Then it got a good flogging with a rubber mallet.[ just separating some].
Then using a 21/2 lb lump hammer and a piece of Oregon pine.[ maybe moved a little more and broke a piece off the leg]. Then forced several screw drivers in, while the rear of the housing will separate say 1/2 an inch under force the front is less than 1/8 of an inch separation under force.[ When are you guys changing to metric LOL].It really feels like it will bust something before letting go. Also sprayed large quantities of Penetrating oil inside there to free it up.
Seems we have a cyclone building in the Gulf [of Carpenteria] north of us[not good] wonder why it's so humid and hot here.thanks again.

[guy74]

Yep thats how one would act if the driveshaft was stuck in the crank. Just give it some time, and try not to break it up anymore. And please no references to hot and humid, cause it's -6 degrees C here and the wind is blowing, can't work on anything outside without sticking to it. Hope you have some success soon, I'm out of ideas.
Gday,
Brian

[malubyann]

Cheers, has anyone got any fresh ideas, much appreciated.
This morning I used a length of 2''x4'' and a 10 lb sledge until the alloy is starting to crack on the side of the cavitation plate and it has not moved a millimeter after 20 odd firm hits. Thanks.

[flabum]

You certainly have a stuck driveshaft there. The drive shaft is stuck due to rust into the crankshaft of the engine.There are several ways to deal with this

1) Secure the lower unit to the ground in some way that the ground tackle will withstand a couple tons of lifting pressure. Get a lifting eye from an outboard shop and attach it to the flywheel. Using a 2 ton hoist begin lifting the engine. The shaft may or may not come loose. If it does not come loose, you will need to heat the crankshaft at where the driveshaft goes in. You will need to remove the plastic (or aluminum) lower shroud to access the shafts. If you use a lot of heat to free the shafts, you will need to remove the powerhead and replace the lower crankshaft seal since it will melt.

If you cannot release it this way, a more destructive method will be needed:

2) Hard and expensive way....last resort: With the lower shroud removed, using a Sawz-All or similar cutting tool, cut the shaft at the crankshaft (do not cut the crankshaft) You will then need to replace the driveshaft and remove the powerhead to extract the splined portion of the driveshaft. To extract the remaining driveshaft from the crank shaft, you will need to center drill the driveshaft. You will feel the void between the top of the driveshaft and the crankshaft....stop drilling when you get to that void. Using a tap, thread the hole you made and using a hardened bolt in the threaded hole, press the drive shaft out. The bolt will do the pressing.

[guy74]

Sorry to hear that it hasn't come apart for you yet. The only trick I can think of to try would be to wedge it apart as tight as you dare, then start it up on muffs. The vibrations and heat from running might be what it takes to loosen it up. There is not alot of choices for getting up in there to get at where it's hung up, no way short of disasembling the lu and pulling it off the drive shaft. Once it moves a little bit it should come out, it won't hurt to run it for a few minutes the pressure from the hose will circulate enough water to idle.
Good luck,
Brian

[malubyann]

Hi, Man this has me stumped . I changed the battery I flattened yesterday and hooked the motor back up and after squirting oil in the cylinders again I put the plugs back in and fired it up. It took 5 or 6 cranks to fire it up as it has been sitting a long time. Blew a heap of smoke then settled down to a brisk idle so I uped the revs a bit and started flogging it with the 10lber. Still wont budge so it looks like I have to resort to stripping the lot as suggested.
I wonder what other surprises are in store. LOL. Thanks again guys.

[pduquette]

Ok guys-you can laugh at me for this one ----But I'm actualy serious.
Before I'd hack up a good motor with a sawzall I'd try this...take the motor off your boat, flip it upside down (I'm NOT making a "Down under" Joke)
seperate the lu as much as possible and use the straw on the end of the penetrating fluid can to trickle penetrating fluid down/up the drive shaft toward the motor .let it do it's job then try again.If you can't get the lu far enough apart drill a hole . It's easy enough to JB weld later.

[malubyann]

Originally Posted by pduquette

Ok guys-you can laugh at me for this one ----But I'm actualy serious.
Before I'd hack up a good motor with a sawzall I'd try this...take the motor off your boat, flip it upside down (I'm NOT making a "Down under" Joke)
seperate the lu as much as possible and use the straw on the end of the penetrating fluid can to trickle penetrating fluid down/up the drive shaft toward the motor .let it do it's job then try again.If you can't get the lu far enough apart drill a hole . It's easy enough to JB weld later.

Cheers Mate, That sounds pretty good and worth a try. I will remove as much as I can and see what goes.
LOL I enjoy a good down under joke, the Aussies can laugh at themselves, part of our national psyche.
I was thinking it needs a bit of rust remover and penetrating oil in there. And now after cracking it, maybe a second hand middle leg cover as someone cracked it with too many hits with a 10lber. thanks gazza.

[pduquette]

Good luck! I always liked that about you blokes ! I got a big National Geographics map on my living room wall - maybe some day I'll get to use it!