[Dragon6]

HI my father is having trouble with his 1974 Evinrude/Johnson 55hp Engine.The trouble is it wont go into reverse,when you try to use the lever and push it into reverse the lug on the plate hits the lug on the engine cast and wont allow it to jump out of neutral,but if you remove the plate and try to push the lever manually it still wont budge over into reverse,there is nothing on the outside that is hindering the shaft at all,we have tried this at various engine revs but to no avail,forwards is fine anyone have any ideas as to what is wrong, as it is the wrong time of year to get wet many thanks for any help/pointing us in the right direction..Nick

[HighTrim]

Welcome to iboats. Im pretty sure you have the power hydraulic assisted shift. Your clutch dog and reverse gear may be damaged. Im not trying to accuse you of anything, but it is usually caused by the operator "easing" it gently into gear. View the exploded view parts list at

"http://epc.brp.com/default.aspx?brands=ej&lang=E".

Others will be able to verify this info for you. Good luck.

[Dragon6]

Thanks for the quick reply is a job like that something you can do yourself.I have no experience with marine engines but happy enough with a spanner as my own hobby is messing around in the VW world.thanks in advance

[tashasdaddy]

not without a manual, and requires some special tools. and the parts are expensive. my be better to paddle backwards.

[HighTrim]

I too mess around in the VW world....too many hobbies

[samo_ott]

I messed around in the VW bus world for over 20 years and finally swapped over to outboards... lot less room required! I still have a bus or two on the back forty!

Are you guys sure it's a hydro shift? It sounds like a manual shift from what he said and it sounds like the shifter linkage is out of alignment to me? I have a 1976 55hp Johnson and it's sure manual.

[HighTrim]

I do believe you are right Samo. I wasnt really sure while I was writing that, I thought my friends 74 115 was hydraulic and I ASSUMED wrong for his 55. You would be able to guide him best on aligning the linkage if he doesnt have a manual.

[tashasdaddy]

according to brp site 55hp was 1969 then dropped till 1976, which looks to be mechanical, as i can find and oil pump in lower. but i thought 73 - 76 were assist shift mechanical, rather than the solenoid directing oil flow to shift, the shift shaft directed the oil.

i very well could be wrong.

[F_R]

Yes, we need to know what we are working on here. There was no 1974-55hp. It was 50hp in '74. Grew to 55hp in 1976.

1968-72 was Hydro-Electric
1973-74 was Power Assisted mechanical shift.
1975-up was Mechanical shift.

[Dragon6]

Thanks for the reply`s guys yep made a mistake there the engine is the 1974 15Hp model.The manual we have is the CLYMER EVINRUDE/JOHNSON
OUTBOARD SHOP MANUAL..Looks quite a detailed book nut no idea if it will guide us through any strip/rebuild procedure.afraid I`m a watercooled dubber
have a Golf VR6 and a Corrado G60 .thanks for the help so far sorry about the wrong info.am an enginner by trade so making up tools etc not much of a problem unless they are very intricate...

[tashasdaddy]

you can go here, and follow prompts, to the diagram and parts list to your lower unit. "http://www.evinrude.com/en-US/Accessories/Literature/?popup=true"

[HighTrim]

I too have rebuilt a corrado Dragon, pulled the G60 out and swapped it with a VR6 when then charger blew though.

[samo_ott]

Gads... You guys are WAY too new in the VW world! All mine were aircooled, late 60's to mid 70's... Mostly busses... Or Shaggin' Wagon's as folks called em

A 1974 15hp? Wow... not that's a big diff from the 55hp! Ok, to be sure now the model is this: 15BA74 or 15BAL74

And it's a manual shift, so we're back to the beginning. What hits where on the engine that you stated? Do you have a pic? It sounds like it might be the high speed shifter lockout?

[ezeke]

Before you go too far, make sure that the connector between the upper and lower sections of the shift rod is connected correctly. The screws have to be completely removed before reconnecting so that they hold the beveled section of the rod when reconnected.

[Dragon6]

What hits where on the engine that you stated?
I hope I dont show too much ignorance by not knowing exactly what the correct name is for each part but I have only seen the motor a couple of time but here goes I`ll do my best.the plate that fastens to the engine (14mm spanner needed to remove it) this plate also has 2 bolts going into it (8mm spanner) this plate has 4 notches in it (it does look like it has a neutral for both forward and reverse gear) Well the plate goes into the 3rd notch from the top but even if you try to get into reverse there is a lug on this plate which hits a lug in the casting which I pressume is a stop but his prevents the engine from even trying to go into reverse.So I undid the bolt (14mm spanner one) and pushed aside this plate,but you still cant throw over the shaft into reverse.
samo_ott Not sure exactly which model it is I will try to get some more info/pics off my Dad but I have a Engine model no of 154550 (1974)
but yes would love a bus but cost a fortune now for a minter,and the cheap and chearfull watercoolers are good well built reliable cars.

Ezeke many thanks for taking time to show pic but I cant remember seeing that on the motor is it visible from the top or do I have to remove/split parts.Will have a look in the handbook see if it rings a bell

Hightrim at the mo the VW`s are a lot easier than this but you got to be carefull with the old G-Lader unit a re-build ever 70k is best especially when running a smaller pulley,and they can make a mess when the charger goes pop getting rare over here now,but you cant beat the sound of the V6 unit

[HighTrim]

Here is where you can see what Ezeke was referring to , # 47 is the lower shift rod, and you will see the connector on top of it. This diagram will also help with identifying parts. Just copy the link, without the quotes, and paste it in your browser. It is also an Evinrude.

"http://www.crowleymarine.com/brp_parts/diagrams/29493.cfm"

The smaller pulley is exactly why the charger blew, but I had the VR6 ready anyways, and boy do I love the sound of that, especially at WOT

[HighTrim]

This will help with the upper linkage.

"http://www.crowleymarine.com/brp_parts/diagrams/29490.cfm"

[Dragon6]

Thats great Hightrim many thanks, but wont be till next weekend now when we go and have another look,thanks again for all the help hope we can get it sorted without too much grief.holy moly that upper linkage looks a complicated lot..

[ezeke]

Just to follow up; the most common reason for the exact condition that you described is the connector that I mentioned earlier. It usually gets out of wack when someone works on the gearcase as in changing a water pump impeller.

Click the thumbnail below and you will see the location of the connector. It is accessed by putting the gearcase in forward gear, removing the bolts that connect the gearcase to the midsection, and separating the two sections by 1/4 to 1/2 inch. It has to be disconnected to remove the gearcase which is where the problems arise.

[F_R]

The above is so true. However, if that's not it, there are a couple of other possibilities. The shifter lifts the rod #47 to put it into reverse. Suppose the rod were to be too long. Then it couldn't lift the part that it screws into at the bottom end. How could it get too long? By partially unscrewing it from the bottom. Or, there is a clevis lever at the top end at the inner end of the shifter handle shaft. Those sometimes come loose, creating a lot of slack, and not lifting the rod high enough.

[Dragon6]

Cheers guy`s Ezeke and F_R will have a look at those possibilities next weekend F_R the screws you mention no68 there are 2 screw`s on my Dad`s motor I was actually looking for slack there but does look a bit tight to get in will have a try there 1st thanks again..