[Lakester]

t'sdaddy said:

"...if you have good spark, compression, and it will run and idle on Muffs, (do not rev above 1500 rpms, on muffs, can do damage.) i would consider buying it."

------------------------------------------------------------------

hello,

an up date on my 1971 Evinrude 85HP Buy/Pass Inspection visit. went to see the boat n motor. i found all 3 conditions to exist and some other positive indicators, as well... so ah, heck!!, i bought it! and so along with my "flights" into high performance rods N engines, aviation... guess i will also sojourn off for a lil 'boat ride!' ;-]

after about an hour of chit chat, looking, etc, my interest remained keen enuff, so i decided we might do a compression test. i pulled the plugs and grounded the leads. cleaned around the plug holes and put a bore light down in there and took a look-see. "not bad!", i thot seemed quite clean all things considered. so did the overall engine. everything was nicely in place... tucked in here and there, and rubber, hose and wire items all seemed very supple, too. especially the plug leads and boots. engine had been run for about 3-4 minutes prior to my arrival, so it hinted of being warm. this is an OE bone stock, unmodified 71 85HP Evinrude. basically, a one-owner machine. so with my compression guage in place we cranked over the engine.. top starboad bank, then bottom hole, then to port topside and then down to port deck. and here are the numbers:

1-108
3-104
2-105
4-105

"not bad", i thot. so i undid each batch of 2 grounded plug wires and let one go hot, inserted its plug, grounded plug on engine and cranked to see spark. 3 of the plugs fired nicely; fat, whiteish blue sparks. 1 hinted of a bit of orange on its side of a blue spark. i only tried each hole once. if i had thot more, i might have tried another plug to see if it fired the same or like other, white blue. but i was happy. "hey, not bad", i thot. i had a captive audience, as the seller was not a mechanic-type, yet very interested in what we were 'reading' as i explained what i was doing to his dad's old boat. so then we put on the Muffs, and once reassembled we started it up. it was interesting to note that when i started to get into the tests... i found one plug wire off, but there at plug's tip and all the plugs could not have had more than 4, maybe 5 ' lbs or torque on each one. i could have undone them all with an 8" crescent... Made in China, no less. i tweaked on some anti-seize as i reinstalled each plug. and then put about a 12-14' lb torque load on each plug. i held off from the 17-20 since it wasn't mine then. but of note, was the seller's and his bro's comments. oh, 20' #s is too much! and, u dont think they could have been tightened enuff by hand? i mean couldnt u get 5-10 by hand? i said, i doubt if you could get 40-50 inch lbs by hand, then i showed them the plug torque spec in the book.

so with a couple of cranks and a flip of the choke switch she lit off. she quickly came to idleing on the Muffs, responded to light throttle runs to 750-1000 or so crisply and so i shut it down. i did these runs with the engine hood off, and then also with it on. passing grades, A+... so we decided to make a run for the lake.

once in the water, she fired right up. let me brag some here, if i may and say... heck, i am no boater! but that aside i just dont know how this ol 71 85HP 'rude could have been any sweeter than a brand new tuned one. now or then in 1971. then as we prepared to get aboard and motor on up the lake... a big mega-buck 454 wake runner unloaded. wouldnt start, had to jump it, crank crank finally, ~varrom!, etc. what can i say... [blush]

so my wife sees them stalled over there. and so [bashfully] she calls out to them as they hooked it up... " HEY! that's no car, you know!!" silence, then the ramp crowd burst out in a laff... even the 3 on board and their 'jumper mechanic'...

so, after our waves to each other and the dog barking on shore... i gave the Lakester Special some throttle... and off 'shore' we went. off idle~ smooth, low range transition to mid range~ real smooth... then some more, and then some more and now we are on a stable plane. smooth, fun stuff! not at all unlike a floatplane ~ on step! sweet. no doubt both carbs sych'd to ignition correctly. and on tune! pleasant warm breeze in our faces, good water, and the ole 1971 Evinrude 85HP StarFlight... just a' humming like a Singer! i mean, just like a cat with a belly full of warm milk!! "gosh!!...not bad", i thot. :-) :-) so after motoring around for a while past all the $10MM homes snubbin' their noses up there on the shorelines... sun shining in the lake's glistening surface, heck, we get up to just this side of 30 mph, too. then turning around, we came back to the loading docks. used the control in F N R to inch up and position and the LS just did exactly what she was asked to do. after the run, and when at idle she was just as smooth as could be. sounded to me like she has all her ducks in a row. so ah heck, i went ahead and bought her. quite a nice lil package, imo. not bad for a first boat. a real lakester special! see for yourself and let know what u think? 8-)~

http://flickr.com/photos/16885269@N0...88147878/show/

they say, the proof is in the puddin'! seller and his family has said the boat was/is a family heirloom and the engine/boat combo seems to bear it out. well taken care of, in fact babied. dad said rarely past 25-28 mph. i dont think i could ask for more in a used outboard motor. carburetion, ignition and all mechanicals, currently, seem to be in tip-top shape. so now i guess... i will try to keep it all that way.

and i could use some help, so some questions will follow in this thread.

THANKS t'sdaddy, for ur time and answers the other day. i sure appreciate all the good info you passed my way. maybe you or someone can help me answer some more?

regards
lakester

[Gary H NC]

Congrats! Sweet looking boat.Someone took REALLY good care of her...

[Lakester]

QUESTION # 1

so naturally i am both curious about and interested in the engine's prop. the book says it should be a 13 1/4 x 17p. upon investigation i find it won out over the plugs in the looseness competition. the prop nut is finger tight... oh perhaps i should say finger loose. i can reach down and turn it L or R with my fingers... smooth and no tightness. the only thing keeping it from unscrewing off the screw... is the cotter key; split pin. WOW, surely that is not correct?

torque to spec? or finger tight with some load and then bit more just to get cotter key to fit, like a front wheel bearing?

so if not, what torque should it be tightend to? seems the output shaft and driveshaft piniion gear would not be correctly loaded? i can rotate the prop nut about 1/4 turn more or less by hand.

i have never seen a torque application set up like this one is before. i think it needs some attention. i not the prob is good overall and performs quite well, but it is almost 40 yrs old and shows 'some' use. so i do want to pull it and dress its edges some, i guess it will be quite ez to get off... lol

regards
lakester

[HighTrim]

Tighten the prop nut all the way, then back it off so that the cotter pin will go through the first hole available. Throw that old pin out and get a new Stainless Steel one. That is the only thing keeping your prop from becoming a new home for a crab. Take off the prop while you are at it, clean off old fishing line, and re grease the splines as well.

[Lakester]

QUESTION(s) # 2

i note in service manual some types of lubricants in chart. pge 2-6

what is OMC type A?

what is OMC type C?

what is OMC type D?

1-i can figure out Oil Can and OMC grease gun type A, but is today's moly ok, or do i need a waterproof grease for the swivel bracket fitting on the mount to engine tilt area? seems its above waterline.

2-and while one subject of lubricants, what is differnece between a marine grade grease such as on prop shaft to prop? will a reg moly or wheel bearing grease work adequately? what about an anti-seize bit on prop to out put splines?

3-i note there is an oiler wick for the dual points ignition on this engine. how many drops of oil would be good to put into it? enough to just wet it completely so as to lube cam? i am assuming a light machine oil would work fine as used on auto points distributors?

4-i note the service manual says install flywheel clean and dry to crank hub. since it is an interferance fit would not a list film of anitseize help in removal like on a crank hub balancer on v8 engine?

5-this engine has seen moderate, but continual use over the years. the water pump was changed in mid to late 90's. it seems to have serviced well. i note advice to change rubber impeller at least every 3 years or so, and i understand how it works at low speed vs high speed. so i may not change right away, but i did want to look up the part number of kits for my yr and model, but could not find it on iboats. does anyone know what part number a 1971 85H evinrude uses. the impeller? the impeller and gaskets? the complete kit with plates? and a complete water pump?

6-i was unable to locate the part number for my engine's dual points sets?

7-would you think a plug spark with an orange hint to its blue spark is an indication of a weak plug? or wire? or coil? my exp has told me usually a plug. well, since 1 coil for 8 cyls.

8-the service manual says to lubricate tower terminal on distr cap high tension leads with OMC tye D grease. is this a dielectric grease or?

9-the service manual says the distributor has a cast-in brass bushing that rotates, close tolerances, on upper crankcase head as timing advances or retards. does this bushing get any oil? manual says to be sue its clean of dust etc, but seems anything that rotates could use some help, especially with modern lubes and manual's 1971 date.

10-in reading iboat tech posts to forum, i note comments about the importance of using new " gaskets and seals" when changing l/u oil. however, when i study manual i note they show only a seal, not unlike someting one would find on an oil pan plug. a hard plastic seal? if i remove upper plug to ck l/u oil level, i need a new seal?

what is the part number for the seals i need for this 85HP 71 elec evinrude?

11-i was unable to locate any spark plugs off iboat parts for this engine? are they available?

well, that should help me make some good notes to help keep Ol Blue LSC in tune. thanks for the help...

regards
lakester

[Lakester]

hello hitrim.
thanks for the input. so if i tighten it and back off, then pin, is it better to have say 1/16" slip as to -0- slip as it almost fits nut hole if i tightened it some over much looser?

i appreciate the split pin suggestion. mine must not be SS as i do note rusty on it. could be grime, but i havent pulled yet to look-see...

thx gary...

regards,
lakester

[HighTrim]

What is the model number for that motor? If you go to your BRP dealer/mechanic, they will have handfully of the gaskets needed for your lower unit drain and vent screw. I usually change mine every fall when I change the fluid. Motor was designed to run with Champion plugs. I would change that impeller ASAP. The part is cheap, but its failure can be catastrophic. Get yourself a tube of marine grease for the fittings and reccomended areas of lubrication. I would also change out all the plugs, keeping those as spares for decarbing, etc... Also rebuild the carbs and give them a bath. When re installing flywheel, check the crankshaft and flywheel tapers for any traces of oil. This assembly must be perfectly dry like you said. Swab all the tapered surfaces with solvent and blow dry with compressed air. Inspect tapers for burrs and nicks. Torque to specs when finished.

[Lakester]

hitrim:

i have not confirmd on block, but my service manual says" 85193

regards
lakester

[HighTrim]

Look for the model number. It should be located on the port side stern bracket, located here.



If it has been painted or removed, you will need to find the welch plug. It should be on the top rear of the motor, and will look like this.

"http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...MVC-859S-1.jpg"

[tashasdaddy]

1/ i use waterproof on everything.
2/ use only BRP (OMC) Premium Blend Type C in the lower unit. required for the electric shift.
3/correct
4/ must be clean, dry,and torqued to specs, or it will shear the woodruff key.
5/engine diagram and parts list:
"http://www.evinrude.com/en-US/Accessories/Literature/?popup=true"
change the inpeller every 2 years. they are rubber, they dry up and will
come apart, and can clog the ports. also inspect the thermostat, i usually
change of new to me motor. water pump kit. same the carb kit.
6/ see 5
7/i would replace all plugs, and keep a couple of old one for spare.
8/ i beleive so???
Break time.

9/ never done anything to mine
10/ seal # 311598 usually 50 cents, by a dozen, i replace everytime removed, change you lower oil every fall, before the first freeze, incase of water intrusion, and a crack case from freezing water.
11/ L77JC4 if using electronics, use QL77JC4 the motor was designed to and will run better on Champions.

ok this will keep you busy for an hour or so.

glad to help.

[Lakester]

hello hitrim, t'sdaddy:

ht-this is what i got when i went to that link:

Page not found …but while you're at Photobucket, why not try:

???

OK, am taking ya'lls advice. so started my Motorboat Projects List. plugs are item #1, etc.

sure appreciate the help. i can twist and turn things, but not if i dont know where or when!

*** so as to prop, i guess the prop barrel will fix the prop's position and the inner truarc snap rings hold all the inner parts in correct position? it would be normal to have some back n forth play on prop shaft?

*** paperwork says engine serial # is: 34682 does that help, or i still need model #?

*** i know what OMC means, but BRP? is that J/E dealer?

*** thanks for the heads up on flywheel being dry to avoid key shear. that's a WILCO here...

*** ok, think i got it on prop. more than one hole to locate prop nut.

*** i will source waterproof grease for gun, and dielectric... any other waterproof grease(s) i should consider?

*** change out thermostat parts, or just vernatherm? get a kit? how do u service it? my manual shows me the parts but i dont see any comments about it...

*** plugs? book says Champion L77V is that the same as L77JC4, a superceded number, perhaps?

*** on the flywheel nut-book says torque to 70-85' lbs.. to me that is a big variance, do you like the higher spec? "dry and 85"? how about the flywheel nut itself, a drop of oil on its threads and lightly across the flywheel to nut face? or dry as in all parts to assemble? hard to believe an engine only locks a flywheel into postion with a nut and woodruff?

sure appreciate it... u guys are quite the resource center for tech, etc


regards,
lakester

[HighTrim]

Sorry about the link. The welch plug looks like a quarter, will be shiny and circular, and will have the model number and serial number on it. Look on the top , rear of the motor. We need the model number to ensure the year of your motor. BRP is Bombardier Recreational Products, the new owners of J/E or OMC. I would change the thermostat and poppet valve at the same time. You will need a new gasket as well for re installation. A can of gasket sealing compound is also needed , for other jobs as well. A can with a brush built into the lid is ideal. I use the BRP Gasket Sealing Compound.

[tashasdaddy]

all flywheel parts dry,
L77JC3 is superceded #,
OMC was Outboard Motor Corp, bankrupted in the late 90's BRP (Bombadier Canada ) bought bought what was left, and formed Bombadier Recreational Products. Johnson/Evinrude, seadoo, 4 wheelers etc.
i always use the tstat kit. never done that motor. so not sure.

[HighTrim]

Here is a good parts break down for your motor, listing all parts numbers if you need them. Another site is the actual BRP site.

"http://www.crowleymarine.com/brp_parts/3985.cfm"

[tashasdaddy]

[Lakester]

hello hitrim,
thanks, for your reply

is that BRP Gasket Sealing Compound what is used to seal the l/u to the exhaust section? no gasket? what is the sealing interface? just gasket sealing compound?

well, this is a one owner type combo. i am until proven otherwise sure its a 71 85HP. does the ss# 434682 and model # 85193 chalk up to being a 1971 85HP electric? says model is Starflight? [wondering] anyway i wont be able to ck it out until after TD holiday... but in any event, i wont order parts until confirmed.

i suppose i will only be able to service thermostat from topside? housing not accessible with lower engine hood installed? or can tstat block bolts clear botttom of hood when backed out? prob should consider new hose connectors, too while it for tstat...?

and while we are at it... the fuel pump.

i read in 71 book individual parts not serviceable. but in forum i read they are. so are the part avail? diaphram, gaskets, ck valves etc? or best to just put new pump on? does new pump include screen? or is that a serviceable item?

how would u suggest i start thinking about my ignition? its all fine now. but if it went out, the tests seem a bit overwhelming, not sure i have all the test equip? i am thinking of just doing tests i can to help me better understand it. aside from working with the 'hard' parts, like distr, coils, points, and the numerous voltages, or hot/not hot connections for 12vs here n there. #6 should be if, #5 should be if? 12v light shoulf it... etc.

no doubt fresh plugs, points, ign cleaning, empeller, fuel pump etc, will crispen throttle response.

you would prob say i need a decarb. maybe just as a part of the tune up? do you do it as a routine item, or when characteristics suggest? if u only do a decarb, do u see the engine run any better afterwards? wondering...

regards,

lakester

[Lakester]

hi all,
thanks for the additional info, thots and posts...
lakester

[tashasdaddy]

i decarb mine atleast every 2 years, depending on use. it cleans the curd out, like a good enema, has been known to raise compression and free up stuck rings. it's just good preventative maintainance.

[Lakester]

11/ L77JC4 if using electronics, use QL77JC4 the motor was designed to and will run better on Champions

----------

all flywheel parts dry,
L77JC3 is superceded #,


-------

hi t'sdaddy,
u mentioned -4 then -3 on plug #? can u clarify?

tasha pretty dog! malmute? or? she dont look like a shepard... btw, i have north dogs, too. norwegian elkhounds. great dogs. hunters...

ur advice has been most helpful. thanks

regards
lakester

[HighTrim]

Use the QL77JC4 plug. I use the gasket sealing compound on various parts of the water pump, such as impeller housing screws, underneath impeller plate, etc... and on certain gaskets such as the t stat gasket.

[tashasdaddy]

use QL77JC4 they will not interfere with electronics, depth finder, radios. the L77JC3 was a typo error. if not using any electronics, you can use L77JC4 which are just a bit cheaper, but will cause static in electronics.

[Lakester]

hello,
thanks for the clarifications on the plug#'s. the boat does have a fish finder. is this the sort of electronics i would have probs with using the -4's? also, i note in another 2-stroke engine source mention of side mounted grounds to side of electrode vs over the end of it. in the evinrude sevice manual they make mention of the special 77 plug as being a bit better tuned to the 1971 cd 85HP engine. both are available at my autoparts store. 77s about 3.89 and the -4s 1.49. is cost the reason the 77s are preferred?
thanks.
regards
lakester

[Lakester]

QL77JC4 vs the L77JC4; oic, missed the Q in reading posts. still curious about the rim plug, L77V?

also, is there a gasket that seals the lower unit to the exhaust section? in the parts schematic i dont see one, but in service manual where they show driveshaft bearing housing going in there clearly is a gasket shown [page 6-8, fig 6-17] on the outer edge mating surface to exh section of the l/u. yet no mention is made in reassembly of l/u nor did i see one at BRP.

where do u source the vent/drain gaskets. my evinrude dealer says 85-cents each and i asked for a dozen?

also where do u source carb kits and impellers? all my quotes for stuff was list...

was also wondering why points are $75.00 a set? i mean, other than because its a boat application! they dont look much dif than a set of chev 71 350 points? are they 'that' special? for $150... i am thinking i could make my own... using old point frame and 71 chev or similar contacts.


thanks

regards
lakester

[patrick4266]

I see you have a 71 rude, I just got a 70, 85hp rude that i just put on my boat and started today. I do not know much about boats but I am a mechanic, so I figured I could learn. Any way I can/t find a pee hole on mine. Does it have one?

[HighTrim]

Welcome to iboats Patrick.. You should start a new thread for any questions of your own , so that ppl dont get confused, but no, you do not have one, unless retrofitted. Good luck.