[Cwilk]

Help!

I hit a coral head in the Keys and broke the drive shaft on my 2003 F225 Yamaha model#f225TXRB. The gearcase was damaged badly and the driveshaft sheared at the powerhead end. I purchased a new complete lower unit but I have just one major problem. I cannot remove the splined end of the shaft from the powerhead. I tried using a heavy-duty telescoping magnet but it did not budge. I managed to push it farther into the powerhead(by accident) so I know it is not seized up. Two weeks before the collision I replaced the water pump and impeller and greased the splines. I was able to remove the lower unit very easily so I don't understand why a 5 lb magnet did not do the trick. I live in Michigan and the boat is at my father's in the Keys. Since my departure he put a little JB weld on the end of the magnet(against my wishes) and the telescoping magnet just pulled apart.
Do I have to remove the powerhead to extract the remanants of this shaft or are there some tricks of the trade I don't know about? Due to my long-distance relationship with this boat, does anyone have any idea what a Yamaha dealer may charge to complete this job if a powerhead removal is in fact required?

Any suggestions are appreciated!

[jl_photo]

first try spraying WD-40 or either on the spline to wash away the grease that is forming a vaccum holding the shaft in.

then you may be able to gently tap the top of the crank shaft repetedly with a brass hammer.

if that wont work and if you can get a clear shot at the shaft. you might be able to drill a small hole in the shaft and use a self tapping screw on an extension and pull it out.

you will have to make the drill extension your self.


splined shafts are case hardened it will not be easy to drill

in the end removing the powerhead is not as complicated as it seems. the trick is getting the bolts out.

soak the bolts overnight with a penatrating oil called "PB" available at any auto parts store or wal-mart.

use an old bolt or rod slightly larger than the bolt diameter as a punch to strike each bolt head about 50 times hard with a 16 oz hamer.

borrow a 1/4 inch impact wrench and gently try to remove bolts. the small impact wrench lessens the chance of breaking bolts and the hammering action of the impact helps break the corrosion.

be very carefull not to break bolts.

stainless bolts are not as strong as steel, hey break easily.


breaking 1 bolt will cost more than having a dealer fix the whole thing.

all bolts should be coated with silver anti-sieze grease before re-assembly


good luck




.

[jl_photo]

first try spraying WD-40 or either on the spline to wash away the grease that is forming a vaccum holding the shaft in.

then you may be able to gently tap the top of the crank shaft repetedly with a brass hammer.

if that wont work and if you can get a clear shot at the shaft. you might be able to drill a small hole in the shaft and use a self tapping screw on an extension and pull it out.

you will have to make the drill extension your self.


splined shafts are case hardened it will not be easy to drill

in the end removing the powerhead is not as complicated as it seems. the trick is getting the bolts out.

soak the bolts overnight with a penatrating oil called "PB" available at any auto parts store or wal-mart.

use an old bolt or rod slightly larger than the bolt diameter as a punch to strike each bolt head about 50 times hard with a 16 oz hamer.

borrow a 1/4 inch impact wrench and gently try to remove bolts. the small impact wrench lessens the chance of breaking bolts and the hammering action of the impact helps break the corrosion.

be very carefull not to break bolts.

stainless bolts are not as strong as steel, hey break easily.


breaking 1 bolt will cost more than having a dealer fix the whole thing.

all bolts should be coated with silver anti-sieze grease before re-assembly


good luck




.

[Cwilk]

Thanks for the advice Jl, I'll give it a shot.

[Bluefish]

Go with Jl cleaning and check for any burrs that might have to be filed clean if shaft broke that high up you could also try removing spark plugs and turning engine over to see if it might throw it out

[lasvegaskid]

Originally Posted by Cwilk

Help!

I hit a coral head in the Keys and broke the drive shaft on my 2003 F225 Yamaha model#f225TXRB. The gearcase was damaged badly and the driveshaft sheared at the powerhead end. I purchased a new complete lower unit but I have just one major problem. I cannot remove the splined end of the shaft from the powerhead. I tried using a heavy-duty telescoping magnet but it did not budge. I managed to push it farther into the powerhead(by accident) so I know it is not seized up. Two weeks before the collision I replaced the water pump and impeller and greased the splines. I was able to remove the lower unit very easily so I don't understand why a 5 lb magnet did not do the trick. I live in Michigan and the boat is at my father's in the Keys. Since my departure he put a little JB weld on the end of the magnet(against my wishes) and the telescoping magnet just pulled apart.
Do I have to remove the powerhead to extract the remanants of this shaft or are there some tricks of the trade I don't know about? Due to my long-distance relationship with this boat, does anyone have any idea what a Yamaha dealer may charge to complete this job if a powerhead removal is in fact required?

Any suggestions are appreciated!

Be very careful what you do with that!!!!!! Where that spline goes in, you have 2 seals. If you damage them, you will be pulling the power head. I just had my powerheads off, on both my 200 hp Yamaha's to replace shift shafts. I replaced both of those seals. Rodbolt is a Master Mechanic. I would wait for his input before trying anything that could do damage. Chances are he has seen that before. He is in NC, right near where I go every summer. The Outterbanks. There is a ton of boating in that area. Good luck, Bob

[Cwilk]

Sorry for the late update everyone,

I was down in the Keys a few weeks back and I was able to remove the spline without too much trouble. I sprayed the spline with half a can of WD40 to dissolve the grease(as suggested) and left it overnight. The next morning I used the 5lb magnet and turned the flywheel by hand and it pulled right out. The seals checked out fine with no oil leaks. The boat ran great while I was down and I managed to dodge the coral heads this time.

Thanks for the advice!