1969 65hp good buy or not?????

I am looking at buying a 1969 65 HP Merc. He said it runs good and just had the lower unit redone. He said it runs great he said all compression checks out. I am going to do my own check up on evertything but he is only selling it for 475. That seems cheap. Any ideas what to look for when i go, what usually goes wrong with these engines? Are they good engines?

Re: 1969 65hp good buy or not?????

Thats a fair price for a 69 engine if it's a good as HE say it is, the engine is after all almost 30 year old

Re: 1969 65hp good buy or not?????

Are there anythings i should look for when i go check it out?

Re: 1969 65hp good buy or not?????

If you can, find a mechanic close to the buyer leave him your licence or something and tell him you want to get a pre purchase inspection, he'll do a compression check and run it on the test tank can't tell you how much he'll charge because I live in Australia, here they charge about $40 or $50 AUS so I would imagine it would be about $25 or $30 US, I reckon its worth it to know what your buying. he'll also list what (if anything needs fixing) so you can take it back and have a great tool for bargaining.

Re: 1969 65hp good buy or not?????

I have one,bought it in '78 and it has been a great engine for me.It still runs and aside from the brittle wiring that plagued the engines of that era it has needed nothing.I started it recently after it sat for many years and it fired right up.It needs a new choke switch in the remote control and a starter solenoid which is probably just dirty as it clicks but doesn't crank the engine.Once I get my boat transom repaired it is going back in service with a new waterpump.The engine last ran on the muffs in '92 and after replacing the gas mixture it sounds great.I posted a vid of it on Utube if anyone wants to see it running I will give you the link to it..Ron G

Re: 1969 65hp good buy or not?????

pontiacta95 said:

Are there anythings i should look for when i go check it out?

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It would be nice to have it on a boat for a live trial.
Prior to the cold start, (come back n' do it cold if the engine is warm), inspect the engine fer signs of salt water, (real hard on old Mercs). Look fer corrosion on the block; engine bracket; n' lower unit. I would not give $475 fer a salty ol' dog. Check the internal wiring, ($150 - $200 off if it needs new wires which you can buy here on iboats).

Assuming yer on muffs, (same proceedure if on the actual water):
#1 Fire it up from dead cold. (feel the engine to verify it is cold prior to torchin' it off).

A. Does the fuel bulb pump firm, (take the hood off to look fer fuel leaks)? If he has the factory brass fittings it will leak, (easy to fix those lines), not worth tearin' the carbs off if ya pay $475. If ya have gas line leaks $100 off!

B. Does it torch and run smooth right now? (My old girls sure do). If not: ponder what is wrong.

C. See if it idles smooth at low RPM, (high idle may mean bad reeds).

D. Shift into reverse n' forward n' watch everything. Should shift smoothly!!

E. Now if yer on the water: after warmin' the engine: take her out n' put her to the wall, watch the tach to see she is runnin' up to 5200 + or - a little, at WOT. Is it smooth? Do the sea trail fer a few minutes n' bring her down to idle to see if she idles smooth at low RPMs shift in reverse et al.

After the above run test (assumin' a passin' score), inspect the paperwork on the Lower unit. If checks out then test compression, (if ya feel the need to). If any question about the lower unit open the vent and check the gear oil, (should be clean and NO SIGN of water).

Good Luck, those can be very good engines!! JR