[Newbe15132]

HI,

I'm staring a new post just to help me fix the stalling/does not want to stay running problem.

Well, When I first taken this motor out it was running fine. About 2 hour run time (maybe 2 days of going out) it started cutting in and out. Does not seem like a carb problem. Sounds like someone turning the key on and off. It goes and stall then catches again and goes. At First, it was intermiten, then started get worss and worss. now I can't keep it running.

Heres a video on a walk through of the motor.

http://bhgoodsco.com/MOV00773.MPG

better video

http://bhgoodsco.com/MOV00781.MPG

[Diverted Income]

Disconect the wire on the magneto. The one in question. It grounds the mag to kill the motor. See if the problem goes away. The wire striking the flywheel does nothing. Looks like you are missing the choke solenoid. The cylindrical weight hanging off the choke plate cable is the armature that should slide into the solenoid.
Good Luck.

[Diverted Income]

One other thing, the green thing is the rectifier. Part of the charging system, not related to the ignition.

[Newbe15132]

Heres a video of the motor trying to run. Maybe it will help.

I'll take another video with the wire disconnected.

http://bhgoodsco.com/MOV00787.MPG

you may want to download the video file first it will play better

[Newbe15132]

Can it be the timing?

P.S The choke solenoid in on the crowling, well know I know what that is :-)

[Newbe15132]

Ok, I removed the wire and ran the same, no change.

Any ideas?

[emckelvy]

I'm thinking more likely it needs the points serviced.

You'll need to pull the mag and disassemble to get at the points. The mag is held on to its drive unit by (4) bolts and is 'keyed' with a flat spot on the shaft so it can only be inserted into the drive unit one way. You'll need to disconnect the 'kill' wire from the side of the mag unit, and it'll make things easier if you remove the idle stop/spark advance/carb stop bracket which bolts to the front of the mag with (2) bolts. Use caution when removing/reinstalling the phenolic parts on the mag (cap, rotor, & adapter housing) as they're easily breakable if you pry too hard or get the mounting screws too tight.

Remove the points and clean with medium-grit sandpaper (or wet-n-dry) to bare metal. Polish the contacts with crocus cloth. If they are badly burnt/pitted, replace the points and condenser. Degrease and set points gap at .008"-.010". Adjust the points lubricating 'cam wick' so that it has 1/64" (.0015") clearance from the 'flat' of the cam lobe. If the wick is all dried up, it should be replaced.

Note that the mag is supposed to be set up with a 'dwell plate' after initial points gap adjustment, but the above points gap will get you out on the water, running reasonably well.

If the distributor cap has 'trash' in it, flush out with carb cleaning spray or equivalent.

Note: best to have a manual when you do this, having the step-by-step instructions in front of you ensures success.

Here's a link for good tuneup info:

http://www.maxrules.com/timingindex.html

HTH.........ed

[Newbe15132]

K I will do that. I'll take pics and video if I get stumped.

But I don't understand, it was running fine, then slowly it started to get like this, now it will not stay running.

May be the timing is out? Heres a pic

[jimmy57]

you might look into fuel my old 650 will stop just like you turned off the key when it runs out of fuel maybe you have a intermitant fuel problem