[Newbe15132]

just so you know, This is the first time I even down anything with a outboard. I don't know anything about it. So, please keep it simple

The motor was sitting outside under a tarp for about 2 years. Once I got the electric shif to work, I taken it out. Ran fine put no power.

The next day, i seen some brown looking slugs stuff has dripped out on the ground. It came from the middle of the shaft, looks like 2 little holes there.

Well, that same day I taken it out, with a new fuel mixture 50:1. It seems to have alot more power, was able to rev it up higher. Now I get the boat to half power (or abit more) and start to open her up, evinrude will start to rev up fast and high rev. And I'm sure the boat starts to slow down. When I reduce the throttle, she kicks back in and the boat speeds back up. I must keep it under powered to keep it form slipping (or so it seems).

Then later on that day, when I started it up I thought I heard a knocking ot taking sound when I put it in fowered gear. I'll give her abit of gas (to be on the safe side) and hold it there, sounds like it going "Tap Tap Tap then start to pur, then I up the power and all is good.

One other thing, the gas house from the tank to the motor has a bad seel (on the engines side of the house) and leaks when priming. When motor is runing no leaking.

And theres the choke. I start the motor with choke on, when shes wormed up I'll attempt to put the choke to auto or off, then it'll die right out. Tryed the lean ritch nob, but not to much affect.

Then one more then I noticed, at the end of the ride, the motor kept stalling and I had to keep priming it to start and keep running, but that was only for the last 10 min, maybie a glitchs.

Hope all of this can help you pin point the main problem.

P.S on the lower unit I seen that there is one of them liqued gaskets around the unit. maybe its leaking?

Thanks,
Newbie15132

[tashasdaddy]

welcome, to iboats. one at a time. 1st get a manual. outboardbooks.com.

then you need to clean and rebuild the carbs. replace the fuel hose, suck air, if it is leaking. the sludge is normal for a motor that has sat. check you lower unit oil, and change 80-90 lower oil.

sounds like you have a broken drive pin, or a spun prop. the prop shaft has a hole thru it and a pin goes thru the prop, and prop shaft, to power the boat. remove prop and check. also the prop has 2 metal hubs, inner and outer, with a pressed in rubber bushing, this bushing could also be bad, allowing the the hubs to slip. like the clutch in a car.

[F_R]

Your slipping has two main possible causes: Either the prop hub is spinning or the electric clutch is slipping. You better hope for the prop.

You have to fix that gas leak at the connector before digging into something else. It is sucking air instead of drawing fuel from the tank.

It sounds like you have a whole bunch of other problems too. You need to step back and evaluate the whole project before you start pouring money into it.

[Newbe15132]

Update....

I taken the boat out again. Its still slipping and I have not yet change the lower end oil. But, if I would slowly up the speed, I can get it to full power with out slipping. But when I put it in neutral and back into forward it started to slip again.

Can it be from the old lower end oil? Or maybe the electric shift magnets or something?

I'm sure its not the prop. I taken it off and everything seems to be in order.

Thanks

[cougar1985]

i would think if you have a electric shift type lower unit you DO NOT want to use 80/90 gear oil !you want to use omc type c which is designed for electric shift lower units.it is now known as, premium blend gearcase lube.

[F_R]

It probably is not the prop, but taking it off and looking at it doesn't tell you a thing. You need to make a mark on the plastic nose cone and another mark on the prop, aligned with the 1st mark. Run the motor till it slips, then stop and look at the marks to see if they are still lined up. If they are not aligned, it slipped.

Now that you know it isn't the prop, you need to put the right oil in it, whether that is the problem or not. No, actually, you need to put the right oil in it before doing anything else.

Then, you need to check the electrical system. Do you have a voltmeter and know how to use it? There are two wires at the rear of the motor that go down to the lower unit. Slide the insulator sleeves back but leave the wires connected. With the key turned on, but not running, check the voltage on the green wire with the control in forward gear. It should be 12 volts. Shift back and forth to neutral and forward a whole bunch of times. Should get the 12V each and every time you put it in forward.

Then do the same with the blue wire while shifting for reverse. Should get the same results.

If you do not get the 12V readings, you have a bad shift switch in the remote control. Or bad wiring in between the control and motor.

If it passes those tests, you have trouble in the lower unit. Bad. Very bad. And it will get worse if you continue running it like that.

[Newbe15132]

Yes theres 12v at both wires, I checked that out when seting up the electronics.

I still would like an answer, would the gear oil couse it to slip? Its old oil.

[F_R]

Wrong oil can make it slip.

[Newbe15132]

Well, I can't find the oil I need. Would 80 - 90 work? is that close to type C?

Thanks

[F_R]

No. You need Premium Blend. It replaced Type C a number of years ago. It is only sold through Evinrude or Johnson dealers. There are a few other oil companies selling what they claim to be the same stuff, but that is questionable. Using the wrong oil can make it slip, and the more it slips, the worse it gets because slipping is causing severe wear to the clutch spring and hub. Actually, "severe" is not the right word, you can barely see the wear.