I had plugs foul twice within a tank of gas, was told not to use the surface gap style plug and use BR7HS-10, they used a BR8HS-10 instead because they were out of stock on the other, said they would be fine, just not as hot. They also fouled.
1) Do I need to replace my fuel filter?
2) Do I need to add gas line antifreeze for any water in my tank?
3) My priming ball gets hard sometimes, but does not always, but it is moving fuel, does it need to be replaced?
4) How do I clean my carbs, should I send it in to be done?
5)Do I keep replacing things a bit at a time to eliminate possible problems?
It has run great up to this season, low idle is a little rough sometimes trolling, seems to get oil, but not sure if it is too much or too little.
well for one thing if your having problem with one kind of plug why would you think a colder plug would work the spak is not as hot as the others so it wont burn as well use the correct plugs or get some one heat range higher.I would change the primer bulb it should be hard when you pump it.to clean the carbs you can buy a can of seafoam and mix it with your gas that will help to clean some of the varnish out of your jets.you say its getting oil but is it getting to much oil?ive seen that vro system screw up especially on the older motors myself i dont trust them.If i were you i would unhook the vro and mix oil with gas 50:1 in tank then you know your not getting to much oil that could solve your fouling problem. good luck happy boating mike
You need to perform an actual spark test using a spark tester. "Doesn't seem to have spark" is not a good diagnosis. It either does or it doesn't. I also agree that if the surface gap plugs were fouling, going to a colder heat range would not help matters. If all three plugs are fouling, I would agree the problem is weak or no spark. If only one or two cylinders are fouling, I'd certainly do a spark test but I would also expect carb troubles on those cylinders. Carb rebuilds are not difficult but if you are reluctant to do it, a service shop is the only solution.
Prognosis, no spark, need to replace that stator and regulator. Re and Re is $1000 out the door.
Yahoo!
That's about $400 worth of parts. I don't know how you feel about doing your own work, but it isn't too tough if you are mechanicaly inclined. Getting the flywheel off is a bit of a tussel if you don't have a good puller. A manual is a must. Your call....................Jerry
Stator is $200 tops, Regulator $100 tops, and a flywheel puller is around $50. It's the end of the season- buy the parts and do it on a weekend, whole thing should take under an hour, plus you'll get to know your motor better. You didn't actually get an estimate for $1000, did You? It is also possible switch box is bad. How do you know the regulator is bad, has it been charging properly?
Stator is $200 tops, Regulator $100 tops, and a flywheel puller is around $50. It's the end of the season- buy the parts and do it on a weekend, whole thing should take under an hour, plus you'll get to know your motor better. You didn't actually get an estimate for $1000, did You? It is also possible switch box is bad. How do you know the regulator is bad, has it been charging properly?
Sorry about that, I was priceing stator and trigger...............Jerry
1995 75HP Mariner, 3cyl, Fouling
Linear Mode
