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Old August 22nd, 2007, 11:42 AM
outboardnut outboardnut is offline
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Default 1970 40 HP Mercury Stator wiring routing

I'm in a pickle on this one. I have no idea on the color coding of the wires coming out of the stator. Is there any way to guess which wire is what without it?

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Old August 22nd, 2007, 01:58 PM
Laddies Laddies is offline
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Default Re: 1970 40 HP Mercury Stator wiring routing

I don't want to come off like a jerk but I am suprized that there is a 400 out there, they were the first 2 cyl with CD ign and worked as poorly. Before you get to far down the repair road ome needs to tell you that parts for that engine are scarce and expencive. That said if the wires are already removed or broken, the only way i think you can iron out the problem is with a OHM meter and cking the ohms, it's gone to take some time but anyway here are the wiring specs. good luck
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Old August 22nd, 2007, 06:50 PM
outboardnut outboardnut is offline
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Default Re: 1970 40 HP Mercury Stator wiring routing

You're going to have to get meaner than that if you want to be rude. Everything I own is junk so I'm used to it,LOL!
Thanks SO MUCH for the specs. I have both a Clymer and a Seloc manual for this motor and it doensn't even touch on the info you just provided. Thank you again!

I was able to locate the two most important wires coiming from the stator.
Wire #1 read 110 ohms and wire #2 2200 ohms. So I hooked those up as the corresponding low and high speed wires. Wires 3,4, and 5 read up around 10-17 M ohms so I think I these can just be left unhooked?

The trigger tested out good, 36 ohms.
Coil tested out bad
Switch box tests out bad bad bad. Infinate resistance between blue or white and orange(test 1 and 2). Orange to ground tested out bad too so I didn't go any further.
I'm currently exploring my optinos for a coil and switch box. I have half a notion to open up the switch box to take a peak inside. Maybe it just has a corroded connection.....
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