1988 Merc 3.0 questions

I am new to this this section of the forum
I just purchased a 1988 Sea Ray open bow 3.0 IO seville.I would give it a 6.5 to 7 for overall condition, it came with it original matching EZ load trailer and I paid $1500. Hopefully that is a good deal?
I know nothing of the boat or merc drives and would just like to see what anyone has to say about it or if you have any experience with one. What drive is it does it have? What should I be mindfull of and be sure to check? The drive was replaced with a used one last year. I am curious the Transom mount is white like OMC or Volvo and the replaced drive is black. Did merc use white paint in 1988? could the drive be something other even thou the engine says Merc?. There are no stickers on the drive so I am at a loss.
I do need to adjust the shift linkage if anyone knows the procedure for that, it shifts hard and the handle is aft of center when in neutral.
Otherwise It seems to run pretty smooth and on our test drive it seems to top out at about 35mph if the speedometer is correct.
It is a like slow out of the whole and I am hoping with a tuneup that will improve. The Carb may need a rebuild and the timing may be off but I plan to do go thru and get her up to snuff.
We hope to use it in the Adirondack lakes of NY water skiing and tubing.

Thanks for anything anyone can share.

Re: 1988 Merc 3.0 questions

Merc did paint drives and transom shields Oyster White for SeaRay sback then, so you probably have a Mercruiser.
Below is a link to the Mercruiser OEM manual for the Alpha drives, section 2 shows how to adjust the shift linkage. But you probably need a shift cable from the control to the engine to cure your problem.

http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Servmanl/6/6covr3.pdf

Re: 1988 Merc 3.0 questions

Thanks for the reply and the information Don,

The link doesn't show me anything it is just the first 7 pages. How would I go about ordering the manual for the 3.0?

As for needing a cable is that an expensive part and what would I need to know to order one?
Is this something that wears out?

Before I pack my family on board what else should I be looking into?
I am pretty handy when required.
You had helped me back when I had my 1985 2550 Bayliner that I replaced the 5.7 OMC / Stringer 800. It was to big for our needs so we are trying the Sea Ray.

Thanks for all the help, then and now


RonVf

Re: 1988 Merc 3.0 questions

RonVF said:

The link doesn't show me anything it is just the first 7 pages.

Click to expand...

I think most of have had this same question with these online manuals. There are "hotspots" at numerous points. For instance on page 7 of 7, Section 1 - Important Information, move your mouse pointer over "A - Important Information" and the pointer will change shape indicating a hot spot, like the old windows help. Anyway, click on "A - Important Information" and you'll be take to that section. Same with the rest of the subsections on page 7.

Re: 1988 Merc 3.0 questions

The link doesn't show me anything it is just the first 7 pages.

Click to expand...

Scroll down to the last page (outline) and click on the LETTER of the section you want.

For your engine, you need Merc manual #10. Ebay, or your local dealer can get you one. Or you can order one off the Merc site if you have your engine SN.

Depending on the type shift/throttle control you have, the cables are probably Merc style, iboats carries them. You just need to know the length of your cable.

Re: 1988 Merc 3.0 questions

Thank you both for the help.

Don,
Is there a way to confirm if I indeed need to replace the cable?

thanks

Re: 1988 Merc 3.0 questions

Re: 1988 Merc 3.0 questions

Cables can be deceiving when testing. When free on both ends, they can be very easy to move back and forth. But by applying a little pressure on one end, it can make the cable almost impossible to move.
The cables are around 25 to 30 bucks each.

Re: 1988 Merc 3.0 questions

If they only $30 I will probably plan on replacing.
I would guess you meassure end to end?

I did just try the handle without the engine running. It is smooth forward but from the reverse area I can feel drag near the handle.

does anyone know how to tell if a starter is a marine starter and not an automotive? the previous owner had it replaced but didn't know what it was replaced with. same with the distributor cap.

thanks again for the help.