Aerator ghost

Ok, i have an aerator that was installed last year and ever since it was installed, I have had to "prime" it before use. What I mean is this-once in the water, the first time I turn it on I have to open the back lid, reach down to the aerator, twist the top cap (filter) to let water run through it and then put the cap back on. After that it will work all day on a timer. It's not hooked up backwards and there are no leaks. Any ideas?

Problem #2: The last time I had my boat in for repairs, they forgot to readjust the throttle linkage on the motor. The top adjuster was all the way loose (found out the hard way-on the water). After about an hour of cursing and thinking I had lost a cylinder cause it wouldn't come out of the hole, I saw this and adjusted it on the water. Two problems came with this: one-I have no idea what the proper adjustment is so I just cranked down until I could get it up to 5000rpms. Is this ok or is there another method I could use. #2-the shifter won't go all the way back on reverse-just about in inch and then when I put it back into neutral-I have to wiggle it to get in to go into neutral. Any help here?

Thanks,
Sid

Re: Aerator ghost

#1,....... Donno.......

#2,....... What Motor are we talking about,..??..??.....

Re: Aerator ghost

And exactly what is it you "screwed all the way down"????

Re: Aerator ghost

1992 Johnson 150 fast strike

There is a cap on right front of motor-took it off-there are two adjuster screws that attach to two cables. The top one was all the way unscrewed-I screwed it almost all the way in.

Re: Aerator ghost

Do you mean the threaded plastic barrel on the threaded brass portion of each cable??

Re: Aerator ghost

yes-there is a bracket with a bolt in the middle that you loosen between the two cables, then there is an adjuster that you can turn with your hand and it tightens the copper bolt into the plastic adjuster-this is what I did-tightened this most of the way

Re: Aerator ghost

OK -- that explains your shifting problem and possibly a throttle problem. Put the controls in neutral. Disconnect both the shift cable AND the throttle cable (pay attention to which one is which). Spin the prop by hand to make sure the engine is in neutral. Now bring the end of the shift cable up to the attachment point where you disconnected it. Don't put it on, just check to see if it's perfectly aligned. If not, now you turn the plastic barrel (it's called a trunion) in or out until the cable end perfectly aligns with the shift linkage. Do not push or pull on the cable. It must slip on. Fast the cable retainer. Now you do the same thing with the throttle cable. Make sure the lever is in neutral, hold the throttle linkage against the idle stop and then bring the cable end up to the attachment point on the linkage. You will undoubtedly be way off. Turn the trunion so the cable end and the linkage align perfectly. Again, if you have to push or pull on the cable you are doing it wrong. Now move the throttle full open. Check the shaft that sticks out the side of each carb. If there is a roll pin through that shaft, see if it is standing perfectly vertical. If it is, you are good to go as the throttles plates are wide open. If not roll pin, remove the air box and look at the throttle plates. If they are perfectly horizontal in the carb bores you are good to go. If not, double check your adjustment (don't just twist the trunion) you need to do this from the start. If that adjustment is ok, then you need to do a link&sync and you will not get that procedure from me because it lengthy. You need a manual and you need to follow it to the letter.