Kicker Motor Bracket

Esox

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 14, 2006
Messages
288
I'm thinking of mounting my kicker motor on a garelick heavy duty bracket. I want to put smart tabs on my boat but i can't with the kicker mounted directy to the transom due to a lack of room. Upon researching this bracket the instructions state to always remove the motor from the bracket when trailering. This will be a problem since I always trailer my boat and removing each time is too much work. The motor is a Honda 15hp with power trim and electric start and weighs around 115Lbs. Does anyone have any experience with these brackets? Is it really necessary to remove the motor for trailering? Any input/advice is appreciated. Thanks​
 

Boatist

Rear Admiral
Joined
Apr 22, 2002
Messages
4,552
Re: Kicker Motor Bracket

I have a 21 foot Crestliner with a 15 Hp Johnson kicker and mine works great.
I have never removed the motor except for maintenance. However My 2 stroke kicker long shaft manual start only weighs 81 pounds.

For about 10 years I used a single Garlick bracket made for up to 20 Hp motors with 15 inches of lift. The braket was great on the water but trailering the motor would jump around quite a bit. I added a couple of EYE bolts on each side of the bracket to strap the motor down to and that helped on the road.

Since then I added a second identical bracket. Then I took the motor mounting plate off and made a new one to tie the two brackets together. After that I tied the two release levers together. So now the bracket is very stable with no side to side sway at all. Raising and lowering the motor still takes some effort. With the motor all the way up if I release the lock lever the motor will go about half way down and stop. With the motor all the way down if I release the lock lever the motor will raise to about half way and stop. To get the motor all the way down release the lock lever and let lower to the center then push down on the top of the motor untill all the way down then allow to lock. The Raise all the way up release the lock and let rise to center then I lift on the tie bar between the release levers untill all the way up. Does not require much pressure to go either way.

I also have Bennett trim tabs 24 wide by 12 cord (Deep) per side.

If I was starting over again I would use brackets with only 11 inches of lift instead of the 15 inches. Main reason is would mean the motor closer to the transom when off shore. That would help the with big swells to keep the motor form going completely under the water and also the prop from comeing out of the water.

Other option I would consider is one of the expensive hydraulic lift brackets.

I have been think about upgrading My motor to the Honda 20 HP electric but I hate SILVER. Would like to have a 20 to 25 HP 4 stroke with a 25 inch shaft.

I do not know if this helps you much.
 

Esox

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 14, 2006
Messages
288
Re: Kicker Motor Bracket

Thanks for the reply Boatist. Sounds like your happy with the bracket. I guess my main concern is stress on the transom and or the bracket failing while trailering. The bracket I'm looking at has 9 1/2" of vertical travel and is rated for 169Lbs if I recall correctly. There is also another one that has 15" of travel (maybe the one you have) that is rated for 175Lbs. I'll be mounting this on a 18' Lund which I'm currently rebuilding the transom on. I really want to put the tabs on it and the only way I see that happening is to move the kicker off the transom. I suppose another option would be a fixed setback bracket. Here's a pic for a better idea. Oh yeah.....The Hondas are nice but I don't like the silver either - doesn't match my boat at all. ;)

S1010034Medium.jpg
 

rndn

Commander
Joined
May 20, 2007
Messages
2,323
Re: Kicker Motor Bracket

I had one for a number of years and also noticed it bounces around quite a bit while trailering. Whenever I trailered, I strapped it down and never had a problem.
 
Top