I just bought a 15 hp evinrude with the low speed fuel mix adjustment knob. The guy told me that it had an issue first starting, he told me to take an eye drop and drop a few drops of gas into the mixture adjustment port. This puts gas right into the carb and it gives it something to start with. It works like a charm, the motor fires right up. Does anyone know a solution to the eye dropper and a fix for this, or cause for this?
What year? There's a few carbs we could be dealing with here. Still, you shouldn't be able to get anything in the idle mixture orifice. It ought to be sealed up with the adjustment screw.
The cause is your choke/primer not working properly.
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Thanks for the feedback, it is a E15 RCLS, I believe it to be a 1980. So you guys think that the choke is not working correctly. I will have to look at the choke. Can anyone explain what to look for and explain how it might be messed up. The carb was rebuilt last year. Thanks
your problem, you carb, has a choke plate,(butterfly) that opens and closes, i the closed position it blocks the front of the carb, cutting down the amount of air into the carb. if it is not closing all the way, the fuel is not enrichened, it should close all the way, and open to horizonal when deactivated.
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Would the choke affect the fuel in the carbuerator though? Since the guy told me to put gas into the carb, do you think that is more of a primer and fuel problem or could the choke conceivably be the entire problem? Thanks
when you put the fuel in the carb, you are essentually chokeing it. you are increasing the fuel/air mixture. that's the purpose of the choke cutting off air flow, to increase fuel to air. if the choke is not closing, the motor is getting too much air on the cold start.
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thanks for the feedback guys, I am going down to look it over today after work. Another quick question is about the throttle being sticky and tight to turn. To get the motor all the way revved up you really gotta jerk it and it will not come back to neutral unless you jerk the throttle down so that it clears the shifter plate. Any advice? it looks like there are grease fittings but they do not grease up with my gun.
As for the choke,there is a slot in the pull to choke lever,there is also a lever that should fall into the slot from the carb,sometimes the choke part falls out,especially if the plastic choke arm broke or bent,it may also be upside down not allowing full choke.As for the throttle,on the port side of the engine you will find a linkage arm that connects the throttle to carb and the timing base undr the flywheel.This linkage is held in place buy a couple screws ans the connections to the for mentioned.that linkage arm sits in a slot that has a gear on it,and that gear piece very often gets gunky from old grease ,the reason it wont take grease my be the problem,to fix it properly,you should remove the moving parts and gear from the alum.housing and clean it throughly and grease with a waterprof grease,keep it greased often ,you may also find the problem to be in the handle as well,the same problem exists,there are plastic bushings that get salt,or dirt build up and thus strangles the parts that should move with ease,if you let it go too long it will get worse with end result being bent,shafts stripped gears,.Good luck
The throttle is very tough under the fly wheel. The handle is very well lubed, but under the flywheel wear the throttle turns is very tough. I have to jerk it pretty hard to kick it into full throttle. There is a problem when this happens. On the Pull start there is a red latch that latches so that you cannot pull it. When the latch is not latched i can pull the pullstart, BUT, the throttle will not open up all the way. I eventually got the throttle to open up all the way, only to find out that by getting the throttle to open up all the way only latched the pullstart so i couldnt start the motor again until i took off the cover and manually moved the latch. Any suggestions? it looks like the red latch is rubbing on something and not functioning right?
If the tight throttle truly exists under the flywheel and not the throttle linkage then the armature bearing is likely worn out. You'd have to remove the magneto to get to it.
That red tab on the starter is there so you can't pull start in gear or with the throttle too far advanced. Where ever the tiller grip stops is where you should be starting the motor - not at WOT.
The design prevents you from going full throttle in nuetal. Without the load of being in gear, you could ruin the engine. You wouldn't want to run full throttle in a test barrel anyway, you'll throw the water out and either drown the engine or suck air in the impeller. If you have been forcing it to full throttle in nuetral, then you probably buggered something up on the "safety" mechanism.
As mentioned, it's also designed so you can't pull start in gear, you have to go back to nuetral. Then all the plastic linkages will fall in line for you to pull.
Sounds like somebody did a bad carb rebuild to me.
Water Strider I understand what you're saying, but what happens is that latch gets stuck and does not release unless i manually do it. I dont know if its meant to be like that. i.e I accidentally tried to start it in gear, pull wouldnt pull so i took it out of gear and put the throttle all the way down but it still wouldnt pull until i undid the latch, is that how its suppopsed to be or is it supposed to release. I had a 2000 nissan that if i pulled in gear wouldnt pull but once i pulled it out of gear it pulled fine. This doesnt. Is that normal or should it release?
I have looked over the choke and it seems to be in correct working order, it opens the butterfly when its open, yet it still doesnt function properly. I manually put the choke all the way down and tried to crank it, but still didnt fire with out a few drops.
As for the throttle, it definetly seems to be tight under the fly wheel, if i dont use it for a day then the next day with the motor off, i manually have to move the throttle linkage under the flywheel to WOT before it will kick in by using the handle. What kind of a job is it to get to the armature bearing? Im good with my hands, and have worked on motors just not outboards, is it possible? Thanks
I think you need to revisit the carb. He may have "cleaned" the carb, but I doubt he actually rebuilt it. If it was performing properly you wouldn't need to add extra gas to start it. Where is the low speed jet set? It should be set 1-1.5 turns to the right from lightly seated.
The armature bearing isn't too hard or expensive to replace. Pop off the flywheel and unscrew the armature from the retaining ring. The armature bearing is a plastic piece that looks like a ring and is wrapped around the edges of the armature support ring. Check out the parts diagram for your motor at BRP. It is listed as part #9 under magneto (0322435).
When I put mine back in nuetral and turn the throttle all the way down, then the linkages fall back in place and allow the start assembly to engage the fly wheel again. It resets everything.
If it's not doing that, then I would look for broken parts or would suggest some areas are in need of some lube.
Im willing to be if you fix the problem under the flywheel,things will get better,what is happining is the timing is all screwed up,that is what the piece under the flywheel is all about,more than likely a simple remove,degrease and lube with a silicon spray will do the trick
Just to clarify things a little. I own an 82 15 HP. The motor will start in forward, neutral and perhaps reverse(I can't remember trying it in reverse) The only thing is the motor will not start in gear if the throttle is turned up too high. That's when the safety tab on the pull start stops the starter from being pulled. When you turn the throttle back to idle everything should free up so it definitely sounds as though you need to do some cleaning to free things up. Hope this helps. Rick.
15 HP Evinrude Starting Question
Linear Mode
