2002 Yamaha F225: Bogging down, fuel pressure issue

Hi,

I have a 2002 F225 with 350hrs on it. I just put it in the water for the first time this season and it idled fine, but then would bogg out and shut off after 15 min at idle. I pumped the fuel bulb and then accelerated to about 2k RPM and after about 2 min it bogged down and shut off. I figured out that if I pumped the fuel bulb ever few minutes, I could keep the engine running.

When I got back to the dock I did the following:

1. Checked (visual inspection)to ensure no water was in the fuel by ensuring the red ring had not risen on my fuel.
2. Visually inspected fuel filter and water seperater and both look fine
3. Check fuses for fuel pump
4. Checked fuel lines, found one connection without a zip tie, so I reinstalled it, but problem continued.
5. Touched fuel pump after running engine for 30 min and fuel pump was hot. (not sure if this means it was running ok or if it just conducted heat from the engine.)

Potential issues to keep in mind:
A. My 110 gallon tank is 1/2 full with last years (Aug) fuel.
B. I had a mechanic install a new water/fuel seperator over the winter. (I think its a Raecor)
C. Engine has never had any issues and has always run great.
D. I spoke with a mechnaic today that recently had to replace a fuel pump in an 2002 f225. (any advice on how to test the fuel pump?)

What do you sugguest? Any and all help would be apprecitated.

Thanks,
TCwave

Re: 2002 Yamaha F225: Bogging down, fuel pressure issue

The new item in the system is the Racor. I'd look there second. I'd look at the filter on the motor first. There's an o-ring that seals the top that could be missing. Replacing the filter inside is a regular maintenance item and that o-ring can drop off and be overlooked. Air is easier to suck than gas.

Re: 2002 Yamaha F225: Bogging down, fuel pressure issue

Hi,

I have done the following and hope it will work. Tell me what you think.

1. Replaced fuel bulb hand pump on the recommendation of a mechanic that said sometimes they go bad.

2. Replaced some of the fuel tubing around the fuel bulb and water seperator. The area right near the ends of the tube (near the clamp) was splitting. That could have been the cause of air in the system.

3. Took off the fuel filter and it had junk in the bottom of it. It was a brownish slim. I am going to get a new filter tomorrow.

Tomorrow, I will relaunch the boat. Hope all goes well. Any other advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Tcwave

Re: 2002 Yamaha F225: Bogging down, fuel pressure issue

Hi,

Problem still exists.

I talked with a mechanic and he recommended I check the connection to my gas tank where there is a small part about 2 inches long that has a ball in it. He thought that would be another low cost item to fix/replace if it was clogged.

Unfortunatly, I have a full tank of fuel which prevented me from taking out the part, however fuel flowed out of it very freely as soon as I removed the connecting gas tubing. I didn't want to get gas in my bilge for obvious reasons, so I immediatly put back the tubing and tightend the clamp.

So now what? Do I assume it's a bad fuel pump and replace it for around $500 just for the part?

I am nervous becuase this may not fix the issue if the internal fuel pump (inside the engine) is bad or the fuel filter that attaches to the internal fuel pump. Any advice on how to determine which fuel pump is bad (external one that attaches to engine or the one in the engine?)

I have also heard to check the fuel tubing connecting the fuel filter to the external fuel pump as it has been known to get a little clogged. I will do this tomorrow and let you know if I find anything. Anyone run into this problem.

Apparently E10 gas that was introduced last year is really screwing up outboards. Anyone else having issues?

Advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Ted

Re: 2002 Yamaha F225: Bogging down, fuel pressure issue

yes i'm acatually having simmular problems, i have a 115 four stroke, it runs fine at idle and the lower rpm range, but any thing over 3600 rpms and it falls on its face,

where i live was the first place to get hit by the ethonol on the ease coast. mobil mixed the fuel wrong and there was too much ethonol in it.

I'm an auto mechanic i dont know how many fuel pumps i replaced as well as injectors on certain motors.

but any way back to my outboard, i just had the high pressure fuel pump changed because my mechanic figured that was the problem, so we put it in and then took the boat for a cruse. i got some of my rpms back but no where near where they should be my boat wouldn't even plane. but on the brighter side the screen was pretty full of crap so i have no regrets on having it changed.

next is injectors @ 100 a wack x4. and the labor rate here is 95.00 an hour which sucks but any how hope this helps

Re: 2002 Yamaha F225: Bogging down, fuel pressure issue

At $500 for a pump I would test it rather than throw parts, get a pressure tester and read the manual.

Rather than patching up old fuel lines replace the lot with new.

Re: 2002 Yamaha F225: Bogging down, fuel pressure issue

My F225 2003 was having a stalling issue at low speed. after validating the fuel lines and supply, I added a $30 Pep Boys electric pump below the primer ball and the condition went away. While poking around trying to discover the root problem I managed to loose 12V to the fuel pump. I have a Yamaha expert coming by this weekend to help me figure out how I lost voltage to the fuel pump. He believes the original condition - stalling - is due to vapor locking. He asked if the check valve in the breather tube on top of the air intake was clogged? yes. While running did I observe a big air bubble appear in the separator bowl? again, yes. Does the problem only occur at low RPM? yes. Will follow up soon as I learn more.

Re: 2002 Yamaha F225: Bogging down, fuel pressure issue

You need to do a fuel vacuum test and air leak test (done with a clear hose looking for visible abundance of air bubbles. Anytime you add a component i.e. water seperator, fuel shut off valve you need to check for restriction. I would stick with Yamaha's 10 micron W/S. It is a little more pricing and bulky but it is tested on Yamaha motors at the R&D stage. If you prime the bulb and are getting better results you have a fuel delivery problem. To verify this I would get a graduated cylinder and drain the VST when you experience the problem again. Then prime the primer bulb until light pressure/stiffness is felt and drain again and compare readings. But I would start with the fuel vacuum test anything over 4"hg is a problem.