[storysunfolding]

I picked up a new hull (sunbird corsair 170ss) and I'm going to switch my evinrude over to it. The boat was setup with a johnson and the control cables seem to be a perfect match. The issue is that my year has an electronic shifter or else it would be plug and play.

I'd rather not throw in the old control box b/c it doesn't fit well and the current one is snazzy. So I was looking into how the shifting works and it seems like I could just add an "off/medium/high" switch to the control panel and run the shifting through that switch. Does that seem feasible?

[tashasdaddy]

yours is a straight electric shift, not hydro, but the principal is the same. this is and explaination.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

(Hydro Electric Shift)
(J. Reeves)

The shifting setup of the lower unit is what's called a "Hydro Electric Shift", which is quite complex consisting of voltage being applied to solenoids in the lower unit which in turn change oil passages via a oil pump that supplies various pressure on a spring loaded shifter dog. The wires leading to the lower unit (at the powerhead) are "Green" and "Blue". The engine must be running or cranking over in order to shift out of forward gear.

You CAN NOT use HI VIS lube in that lower unit. You MUST USE what OMC calls "Preminum Blend" lube, commonly called "Type C". (A thinner lube)

In neutral, you need 12v to the "Green" wire.
In reverse, you need 12v to both wires, the "Green" one and the "Blue" one.
In forward, there should be no voltage to either wire. (The spring loaded shifter dog forces the unit into forward gear)

To check the lower unit for proper shifting to make sure you have no trouble there, remove the spark plugs to avoid problems and to allow a higher cranking speed.

This next step eliminates the actual shift switch in case problems may exist there.... Disconnect the blue & green wires at the knife connectors (the rubber insulated boots) leading to the lower unit at the powerhead, then using jumpers, take voltage direct from the starter solenoid to apply voltage to the "Green" wire for neutral, then both wires 'Green" & "Blue" for reverse (Remember the engine must be cranking over in order to shift).

With no voltage applied, the unit should be in forward. No need for a ground jumper... the lower unit's already grounded. You may crank the engine with the key switch or by energizing the starter solenoid with a jumper wire.

[storysunfolding]

So yes?

[F_R]

The switch topic was just covered. I am in no way advocating what you are proposing, but here it is:
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=105917

[storysunfolding]

So the buttons on the old control box would keep the boat from shifting from fwd to reverse if the engine was over a certain rpm?

[Joe Reeves]

A certain rpm? You'll need to elaborate somewhat on that one. I don't understand the question.

Engine not running = Unit in forward gear.

Engine running at any rpm = Shift system activated.

[storysunfolding]

I understand how the shifting works and I apologize for not elaborating on my question. In the link you provided this switch setup was not recommended because there's nothing to keep the switch from being struck and thereby switching from fwd to reverse (or nuetral I'm sure) at WOT. I didn't recognize another significant reason to not do this setup.

That said, is there something in the origional control box that prevents the engine from shifting when it's operating at an rpm that would ensure massive damage to the gears if the boat was shifted from fwd to reverse? I haven't looked at the wiring but I see three buttons on the box for F/N/R

Maybe I'm not understanding- why is this setup not recommended? I'd imagine that a switch is as easy to be struck as one of the control buttons on the box.

[tashasdaddy]

when you push one button the other releases and gives a momentary neutral, why not that the shift switch out of the old evinrude controller, make a cover plate, and mount it on the dash.. kinda like the old push button Chrysler cars had in the 60's. i believe that where this technology came from.

[storysunfolding]

Wouldn't that have the same effect as using an off/m/high switch where forward and reverse being seperated by nuetral anyway?

I'll look into taking the old switch out of the box though, that's a good idea.

[F_R]

There is a sliding bar in the Selectric control that keeps you from pushing the buttons at high throttle settings.

But that is not really the point here. If I tell you to jury rig the shift and you (or somebody else running your boat) run over and kill somebody, then you come back at me and say that I said it is OK. Therefor, you won't hear me say to change the design the engineers created. Let them be responsible.

[Joe Reeves]

Story..... Using the toggle switch setup would be a last resort and is the very last thing that anyone would want to do. It is suggested only when the proper switch cannot be found as the alternative is to scrap the engine. This is why I stated within my reply "For the above reason, I strongly suggest that the toggle switch have a hinged hard case cover installed over it so that the toggle can never be thrown/toggled accidentally."

If you have the proper switch and it is functional and you intend to keep it intact so as not to defeat the safety lockout feature that "Imported FR" mentions, use it.