[packrat56]

Greeting all, I have a 1972 25 HP Evinrude, I relocated the ignition switch and might have wired something incorrectly, I was very careful to move one wire at a time, but some how when I turn it off it wont quit anymore.

I would appreciate any insights about this issue..

The ignition switch has 6 terminals:

m,a,m,b,i,c


The wires coming from the engine:

red, green, white, yellow (choke), black There is a brown that is not connected to anything on either end?

Any help appreciated!

[Turin]

Mine short cuts when I pull the (dodemans knop) out there s no ignition switch on mine.
maby you using the wrong switch

there only go 2 wires to my dodemans knop but I only have pullstart.

so there should be 2 wires for youre starting motor.
Make contakt when you turn key to start.

2 wires when you turn the engine off
Make contakt.

2 wires for extra things.
make contakt when turned on

but im not the sharpest knife in the drawer so maby some one els knows it better han I do.

[packrat56]

Thanks Turin!

I dont have a "dodemans knop", but it should shut off when the key is turned to the off position??

Other ideas??

[Turin]

It wont turn off f youre ignition switch in his off position doesnt make a short cut than it will stay on

you should take a multi meter and test wich point's are wich.

[packrat56]

I totally appreciate your help Turin..

I am sorry to say that I do not understand the system well enough to test a lead and know where it should go on the switch..

I really need to know where the wires should go:

"The wires coming from the engine: red, green, white, yellow (choke), black There is a brown that is not connected to anything on either end?"

Anyone help me out here?

Originally Posted by Turin

It wont turn off f youre ignition switch in his off position doesnt make a short cut than it will stay on

you should take a multi meter and test wich point's are wich.

[F_R]

You should have two black wires coming forward from the magneto on the engine. Connecting them together shuts off the engine. The two black wires should go to the two M terminals. The switch internally connects the two M terminals together when in the off position.

[packrat56]

does it matter which black goes to which M? And if they are both correct, and the switch is new (replaced because of this problem) how can it not shut off?

Originally Posted by imported_F_R

You should have two black wires coming forward from the magneto on the engine. Connecting them together shuts off the engine. The two black wires should go to the two M terminals. The switch internally connects the two M terminals together when in the off position.

[packrat56]

OK, so I have the two black wires (actually one is green one is black) the two running from the magneto to the two "M" posts on the switch. I have tested the switch and it has 0% contitunity, then 100% contunity when I turn the switch. I have tested the wires from the switch to the plugins at the magneto harnes, I have 0 resistance in the wires, even when I stress/move them around. Is it going to be inside the magneto housing? can I take it apart without having to re-time or set anything up? Or will I need a manual to disassemble-reassemble? OR, is there something else it could be? OR, should I run it like this and just stall with low throttle to kill it???

[F_R]

Green??? That's a new one on me. Do they both go to the magnto?

Short story is when the two (black?) wires from the magneto are shorted together the engine stops. Try it at the engine and see.

Resistance on each of the black wires to the mag plate should be 0 ohms if the points are closed, or more than zero but less than 1 ohm if the points are open. No need to go in there if that is the case.

[packrat56]

OK, new info: I measured ohms between the two leads going to the magneto, in one position I get .7 at the other I get 1.3

AND I tried a toggle switch betweem the leads, when the switch is off, rus as good as usual, when it is on. it does not die, it runs real bad for a short while then dies, but it does not stop running like it should.


HELP...

[F_R]

OK, I'm afraid you are going to have to pull the flywheel and see what's wrong in there. I suspect the 1.7 wire is bad. Can't be sure without further checking.

[packrat56]

I do have a manual on order, but if you could, please telll me if I can pull the flywheel without springs flying out or having to "re-set" something, or is it remove/replace?

Thanks very much!

[F_R]

Nothing is going to fly out. You do need a puller to get the flywheel off. A vibration damper puller from the auto parts store will do. DO NOT pull on the outside diameter of the flywheel! Also, use high strength grade-8 bolts in the puller. Screw them into the flywheel 7/16", no more and no less.

The other thing you need is a torque wrench to tighten the nut to 40-45 ft/lbs when you reinstall it.

If you don't have these tools, you can borrow them from some auto parts stores.

[packrat56]

I finally got the flywheel off.

I found one of the coil wires pinched in two places, outer insulation was torn thru, but the inside insulation was not dammaged.

I also found that one of the sets of points has such a weak spring that it wont close, just hangs open.

Q: could either of these cause the origional problem?

Thanks.

[packrat56]

Originally Posted by packrat56

I finally got the flywheel off.

I found one of the coil wires pinched in two places, outer insulation was torn thru, but the inside insulation was not dammaged.

I also found that one of the sets of points has such a weak spring that it wont close, just hangs open.

Q: could either of these cause the origional problem?

Thanks.

Bumpity bump... (that OK here?)