Paint Types?

I've decided to paint the hull on my 79 Galaxy.
While I thought my hull was white, it looks cream next to my new white truck.
Since the boat is almost 30 years old, I'm going to to with the cheap route of paint, rather then re gel coat the boat.

What am I looking for in terms of paint? Anything special needed?

Also, anyone that's painted their hull, any suggestions? Do I need to slightly abraze the hull with some high grit sandpaper first?

Stephen

Re: Paint Types?

are you planning on spraying or using the roll and tip method?

Re: Paint Types?

You have several options. The best in my opinion is to use a two part polyurethane paint. It will require cleaning with a dewaxing solvent, sanding the hull, priming with a two part epoxy primer, sanding again, then applying the paint using a roller and smoothing as you go using a china or badger bristle brush. Several companies offer this system. Here is a link to one I have used.

http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/

This site has a video on how to use their paint. There are other paint makers on the market that offer the same system of applying the paint that can be found online.

Re: Paint Types?

Glennrow, which method do you recommend???

Drewpster, I never realized that just painting would be so involved. It's just going to be white on white, so do I still need a primer???

Re: Paint Types?

its all the prep that makes a paint job good. if you want a great looking paint job, do all the prep work ( the toughest job of all ) and use a sprayer. the primer will allow the new paint to bond to something. the last boat i did i used the roll and tip method - whereas i think it tourned out very nice, it cannot compare to the finish that spraying can do....either one works, it really comes down to how much work do you want to put into it and how much do you want to spend? ( assuming you do not already own a sprayer ).

Re: Paint Types?

Yep---its the prep work. The hull has to be completely free of wax and sanded completely to deglaze it. Clean and fill all imperfections with a marine filler. If you have any hairline cracks in the gel coat -- drill a 1/32 hole at each end to stop them from spreading, sand the cracks then use filler. If you have any screw holes you want to eliminate -- use a 1/2" countersink on the holes then fill with duraglass so it mushrooms out the back of the hole, let it cure and sand smooth. Clean everything up with laquer thinner or acetone and finally hit it with a tack cloth right before you apply the paint. A two part primer is next. If you did a lot of work on the surface use a heavier "fill" primer and sand again before the topcoat. Read carefully the time restrictions on the primer for "time to topcoat". A lot of primers give you a window of time you have to topcoat and if you miss it you will have to wait a good while before you can apply anything over the primer. A two part poly topcoat will finish everything off. Spraying is nice but you have to know what you are doing. A good roller job can look better than a mediocre spray job. It takes a good while to prep a boat so be patient and you will be rewarded.

Re: Paint Types?

glennrow said:

its all the prep that makes a paint job good. if you want a great looking paint job, do all the prep work ( the toughest job of all ) and use a sprayer. the primer will allow the new paint to bond to something. the last boat i did i used the roll and tip method - whereas i think it tourned out very nice, it cannot compare to the finish that spraying can do....either one works, it really comes down to how much work do you want to put into it and how much do you want to spend? ( assuming you do not already own a sprayer ).

Click to expand...

I agree with you on every point aside the results of tipping & rolling, It is very easy to do with just a bit of practice and the result's will be as good spraying.

If you would have a lot of tight corner's or small edge's yes spraying will be eaiser, however if you have the appropriate roller's (size) it can be done with just a bit of patience.

Perhap's you greatest challenge will come from air borne contaminate's (dust) taking away from a great finish..

I have tried to use a sprayer for perfection, but could not get the paint to atomize fine enough to level properly, and if reduced down to a point that it would flow or atomize corecctly, the results were a orange peel. And probably due to the equipment or lack of experience with the proper solvent's

One of the first thing's i experienced was acetone's inability to cut all the wax off my boat. I have been told by Interlux and a few body shop manager's that it flashes to quicky to get it all, and fisheye's are the result's or tiny pinhole's

After a bath with Acetone and then Xylene and Sherwin William's wax remover (overkill yes but repeat sanding is worse) i sanded the hull down with 180 or ruffed it up. Two coat's of Prime Kote ( sparyed) and sanded them down with 180 again and wiped down with Xylene again.

Using a 7" foam roller i put a lift film of Perfection on (reduced by 2333n @ 15%) in three foot area's, went back and tipped it with a very fine brush i picked up @ Sherwin Willam's, in my mind i would describe tipping as blending paint, it required a bit of practice for me at least and leaves no trace of brush mark's

After the first coat, i again sanded it down with a 320 grit paper and wiped with xylene and repeated the process. I cannot stress how important it is to use a light coat
on application's, it very tough to get right i finally took a old mirrior and practiced till i got it right, that is rolled it, then blended it and watched for sag's

I still have one more coat to go, the pic's you see are with two coat's and they do have some lint contamination in them, dunno if i will find a way around thas issue

Notice the brush it make's a big difference on how well the paint tip's or blend's...........Just a opinion your milage may vary..

Opp's that is Interlux Perfection, for me it was quite a bit harder to get right than than there Bright Side's but both paint's give a great finish, Perfection is said to be a harder finsih and it does really shine or reflect quite a bit better than Bright Side's but then again Bright Sides was by far eaiser to apply and still a great finish very good stuff...


http://s99.photobucket.com/albums/l284/Tail_Gunner_2006/?action=view&current=1178131338.pbw

Re: Paint Types?

Yeah I agree- spraying is best left to the profesionals. Its hard to get right and is better done in a spray booth by a pro. You can't fool around once you start either-- you gotta spray - mix more material -repeat - repeat - repeat. Spraying the topcoat is beyond me. I had a body guy who owed me a favor spray the top coat at his shop. Gunner that roll and tip method looks really nice--I think I could manage that with some practice.

Re: Paint Types?

The truth of it is that your paint job can be as involved as you want it to be. There are some basic steps that must be followed to get the paint to do what it is designed to do. The real work of it is in the preparation..true, but the end result can be fantastic. Marine paints are expected to hold up in a harsh environment and applied correctly they do it quite well.
On the other hand you can go to Pepzone or autoboys and get some spray paint and blaze away.

Re: Paint Types?

Tail_Gunner said:

Using a 7" foam roller i put a lift film of Perfection on (reduced by 2333n @ 15%) in three foot area's, went back and tipped it with a very fine brush i picked up @ Sherwin Willam's, in my mind i would describe tipping as blending paint, it required a bit of practice for me at least and leaves no trace of brush mark's

Click to expand...

Tail Gunner, I know you referred to "tipping" as blending paint. But what paint are you blending???

I know to paint small sections at a time, re-dip the roller, and continue on with the next. You're saying to use a fine brush to carry one painted section on to the next??

Re: Paint Types?

SteveNix, If you will watch the video at this link it shows the application process of perfection paint.
http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/
look for perfection video
The term "tipping" refers to using the brush to skim across the surface of the rolled paint in order to remove bubbles and texturing left by the roller. The brush will leave brush strokes in the wet paint as you tipp it off, however as the paint dries the brush strokes will flow out leaving a smooth surface. The roller is used to apply the paint in an even thickness, the brush is used to help smooth the paint out. The trick in my view is to treat the paint as a coating rather than paint. Latex for example is very forgiving. You can roll it on and use the roller to get consistent color and a smooth surface. Polyurethane paint takes more technique. Simply rolling it on will leave a texture as well as bubbles in the paint, hence the need for tipping it off with a brush. Poly can be applied with a brush by itself in areas where a roller cannot be used, but care should be taken to get the paint on in an even coat, then tipping downward. The video makes it very clear. It takes a little practice but if I can do it, anybody can.

Re: Paint Types?

What do I look for in a bottom paint? Looking for a two part but need the minimum in an antifouling agent. The boat will be only fresh water and stored dry. Need it to be a bright red with an appropriate primer for fiberglass. I see the Interlux has a no sand primer for gel coats. Any experience? Should I use a two part primer and if so which one is best? Do I have to be specific about the primer that I use for a particular paint? Interlux? Petite? Blue? Who does the best for the price?

Thanks for the help!