"Wash machined faces of gearcase halves. Apply sealer 1000 to seal groove and lay strip in groove. Cut ends square and allow 1/32 inch to extend beyond the end of the goove . . . Add a little Sealer 1000 to ends of strip seal. Apply a thin line of Sealer 1000 to surface of upper gearcase . . . dip screws in perfect seal #4 . . .
Install new seal in bearing housing on gearcase. Apply Sealer 1000 to bearing housing and position impeller plate over bearing housing. . .
Attach impeller housing to gearcase with screws dipped in Perfect Seal #4 . . .
That's about it for sealants mentioned in the manual.
You need sealer around the oil seals for the driveshaft and propshaft. You need sealer around the o-ring on the bearing carrier a/k/a gearcase head assy. If you removed the bushing for the shift rod seal, you need sealer there.
The gearcase halves were originally to be sealed with Sealer 1000. Sealer 1000 is now called Adhesive M. It is 3M 847. You can ask your J/E OMC/BRP dealer for part #776964.
Substitutes for 3M-847 are Marprox Sealer 1000, Permatex 51813, or Loctite 518.
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The seals and screws were to be installed with OMC Perfect Seal #4. That is now replaced by OMC/BRP Gasket Sealing Compound, part # 317201.
Substitutes for OMC/BRP Gasket Sealing Compound are Sierra part 18-9070, and Quicksilver Perfect Seal, among others.
Mine went in tight , too.....
I'll put the sealer on the rest......
They did not appear to have any on them initially.....
I'll give it a shot.....
If I try to pull the seal it will be toast, & Seaway is closed today.....
If I have to redo it, I'll zip through it next time.....
Thanks!.......
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Disclaimer!: In my inexpert opinion......
The factory service manual says to do those with the sealer. If the seal holds and doesn't leak, I don't see a problem. The seal on the propshaft is subject to quite a bit of stress, so checking it from time to time is a good idea.
My '67 factory service manual makes no mention of using sealer on those. ezeke, what year manual are you using? I wonder if the recommendation changed at some point.
Well, got it together....
Just in time for the dumptruck to show up with the ten yards of beauty bark the admiral ordered....
So.....
After shoveling all that, I figgered I'd see if it would start....
It did!.....
I only cleaned the old plugs off & ran a little emory cloth over the electodes to shine 'em....
Anyway, it did run rough I thought....
I have no idea where to set the idle mix....
I would idle, but then it would die....
But would restart when the primer bulb was pumped....
It seemed like it needed choke to start, but would run with the choke off once it warmed up.....
I'll check the compression tomorrow, & check both cylinders for spark as well....
I'd like to say THANK YOU to Iwombat & Ezeke for your help......
I'm sure I'll have a bunch more new questions about how to get the liitle beast purring....
Thanks again!.........
The fuel line for the tank is old & had a teeny leak at the primer bulb so I'll fix that tomorrow as well....
What is the initial setting for the idle mix?....
I'd hate to run it too lean.....
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Disclaimer!: In my inexpert opinion......
To iwombat: 1968 through 1973 seal kits are the same 1964-1967 are the same.
The manuals get better as the series of 9.5HP mortors matures, but my working notes are in the 1971 Service manual, so here is a copy of page 6-8. from 1971 part # 4747:
Iwombat, what kind of compression #'s do you have?
Do you let it warm up & test like a fourstroke, just pulling out one plug at a time with the throttle wide open?.......
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Disclaimer!: In my inexpert opinion......
Y'know I've never tested compression on mine since I put in a replacement powerhead last year. I _was_ getting 60psi before I decided it was time to rebuild/replace. In reality, I don't worry about the numbers much anymore. Just make sure they're even. If the motor has a hard time keeping an idle with everything else working correctly it's probably time to consider pulling a head and inspecting the bores.
You'll want to remove both plugs and ground out the wires. W/ one plug in it's pretty tough to spin it around very far. Throttle open or not, doesn't matter. The motor can breathe through the exhaust ports. Warm will give you higher numbers, but all you really need to check is the difference. So, cold is okay unless you see big differences, then warm it up and try again.
So,
Both plugs out.
Ground the wires.
Insert tester.
Pull like mad.
'68- 9.5 evinrude gearcase assembly
Linear Mode
