I am new here and have been reading for the last couple of days trying to find a definte answer but have had no luck. here is my problem
I have a 89 mariner 135 hp V6 with the number C125663. When you give the motor gas it stumbles and bogs with no power up to about 2000-2500 rpms. Once you past this point and get in the 3000 range the motor runs great with no problems at all. oh yeah the motor also runs a little rough at idle. I have checkd that all cyclinders are firing at idle and they are.
Now ihave already checked the compresion on all six cylinder and they are all between 110-115. So it has to be in the fuel system or ignition. I am going to rebuild the carbs & pump this weekend just for piece of mind.
Now on the ignition/stator, I have read in here that this is the source of many problems these motors have. I have tested all the red and blue wires on the stator to ground. these were the results that i got.
Red - 153 ohms
Red/White - 151 ohms
Blue - 6340 ohms
Blue/White - 6310 ohms
Now according to book only the blue blue/blue-white are out of spec as it states they should only be 6200 ohms. The book does not give specs for the 40 amp system vs. the 9-16 amp system. I have forund three different web sites with different comber for both system. According to serail number of the motor it should be a 40 amp system.
I am confused as to where to go with this, what the actaul specs are for the stator are, and if my system is infact a 40amp system.
Maybe i am analyzing this to much. Any help would be greatly appreciated
I am hoping that someone can help you with your problem b/c I am having the same. It will start and run fine. As long as there is no load it will throttle fine. As soon as you put it in gear it will go almost half throttle, start to struggle and then eventually go dead. Every now and agian I can get it to plane out and It will run fine. Normally it will not plane and will go dead. I have rebuilt my carbs (always a good idea!) New plugs New power pack and rebuilt motor. Now all of these were in bad shape and needed to be replaced. I do not recommend to start replacing things unless you know that it is bad. I would recommend taking a look at the carbs. See if they are gunked up at all and be sure your jets are free and clear of all obstruction. Let us know how the rebuild goes.
one other thing i forgot to ask is where is a good place to get these parts. I called the dealer and they want 95$ for the carb kit and told me they can not even get the fuel pump kit.
I would check the fuel system first. Have someone pump the primer bulb while your are accelerating and see if the helps, if so then go to the fuel pump. Then check the carbs. I think before I would rebuild the carbs I would run a "Very Strong" mix of Seafoam (in a small fuel tank if you have one) to see if that would help clean the carbs a little.
I have an OEM manual on that engine and I am unable to find those numbers for the stator test. What are you using to get the information. I do think it is a 40 Amp stator. I do not understand all the electrial stuff so can not be much help there.
IMPORTANT: STATOR MUST BE GROUNDED TO THE ENGINE
1. Remove 2 screws and lift outer switch box. Refer to switch box removal.
2. to test, disconnect blue/white and red/white stator leads from inner switcbox.
3. Use an ohmmeter and perform the following test.
My book shows between red/blue (ohms) <restistance> 3500-4200---- blue/white and red/white stator leads 3500-4200. on the right side of diagram shows 3.504.2 (R x 1000) for both.
Between red statorlead and black stator lead 90-140------red/white stator lead and black stator lead 90-140 and on the right shows 90-140 (R x 1) for both.
Says that if readings are other than specified, replace stator assy.
I don't really know if this will help, just copied from my OEM manual.
thanks gss036 for the reply but looking further into i think the motor is an 89 but the electrical is off of a 88 with a 16 amp circuit. The reason i think this is because the 40 amp circuits that I have seen have two pairs of yellow wires as mine has only one pair of yellow wires. I could be wrong though as this is all new to me.
Remove the backdrag jets (float bowl vents) from the carbs they are what usally cause a lean off idle problem
Laddies,
I know this may sound stupid but i just want to verify before i do this.
I need to remove the backdrag jets and Leave them out of the carb completely?
FYI - this system has the WH-38-1/WH-38-2/WH-38-3 carbs on it. I do not remeber seeing the jet you are talking about on it but i will double check when i get home.
Try backing out your idle screws a 1/4 to 1/2 turn. It sounds like not enough gas. Maybe just some gunk in the carbs, or a bad fuel pump or an air leak in the lines. Plugged bowl vents as well. Maybe water in your lines and in the bottom of your bowls as well.
As for 6300 vs 6200 ohms, that does not matter as the difference is so small.
Most fine electronic appliances are built with resistance tolerances of + or- 20% and they all work just fine. Remember that this is just a test to see that the windings are not shorted or open. Besides, unless you have a well calibrated expensive meter, chances are that your readings are not all that precise anyways.....
Leave the stator alone, it is not the problem and the ohms test is not near as reliable as DVA.
Spend some quality time with your carbs, many of the posters are fond of chemical 'fixes', NOTHING compares with taking it completely apart and cleaning with carb cleaner and compressed air.
These carbs use fixed oriface air bleeds which MUST BE CLEAN, no air = no fuel at low to mid RPM's. period.
If you are stil having low power at higher rpm then proceed to fuel supply, pump, filter(s), line size and length.
oh yeah the carbs were clean as a whistle. the only thing i could find wrong were the float settings. i am going to reassemble today and see how it runs. Any more info or help would be greatly appreciated.
carbs are installed and started. sounds better but i will have to get it out tomorrow to see how it does. Also when i set everthing the timming as at 4degrees when cranking and should have been at 18. just have to wait and see. I i will report back.
ok guys i just got back from taking it out for a spin and the problems is still there. So where do i start looking from here?
here are the specs
89 mariner 135 V6
23 pitch prop
here is what have tried so far
1. rebuilt the carbs and readjusted all of the floats as they were off.
2. rebuilt the fuel pump
3. link and sink the carbs and timming. the timing was set at 4 degrees when cranking and and the high was set at 16. both were wrong and readjusted
4. New plugs
here are the systems again
when from a dead stop you get on it the rpms go up to about 2000 and hold for while whild the motor sounds like it is bogging down when it gets to 3000 the motor will run with out any issues.
Did this boat and motor run better for you at some point?
23P sounds quite high for that size of boat.
My boat is a little smaller than yours and I run a 17P on a 115.
No i bought it this way thinking it was just a issue with the carbs but it looks to be little more.
Quote:
Originally Posted by redjmp
Did this boat and motor run better for you at some point?
23P sounds quite high for that size of boat.
My boat is a little smaller than yours and I run a 17P on a 115.
What is WOT rpm?
What boat is this on?
Your 135 should run in the range 5000 -5500 rpm WOT
Can not be sure without knowing the boat that it is on but...
The sysmtoms are those of too much prop.
CharlieB
Mariner 115 on a ProCraft V180
5900 WOT spining a SS 13 1/2 X 22
Maybe we should swap props and try them?
88 17.5ft champion bass boat
135hp Mariner
QuickSilver SS 23p prob.
Wide open throtle rpm is unknow yet. There have been to many people on the lake when i go to be able to realy go for top speed
I will get the rest of the demensions when i get home.
I ordered the Stevens DVA adapter for my DVOM to see if i can find anything in the ignition system.
I took it out the other day by myself and it did not do so bad. There was one time when i gave it full throttle and the boat just sat at 2000 rpm and would not go past it. I backed off the throtle and went back into it and it got up and went. I need to try again with me and another person on the boat to see what is going on.
You really should find out the RPMs at WOT. That will give a much better indicator of how the motor is actually running. I'm not sure what the weight of that boat should be, but it is possible you are over-propped or possibly water-logged; both of these things would produce the symptoms you describe.
When you are "stuck" at 2000 RPM, are you on plane yet, or are you still trying to get over the "hump"?
If I understand correctly you are saying that it bogs MOST of the time but that SOMETIMES it will get up and run OK?
Intermittant problems as this are tough to figure out but check to see if your carbs have idle mixture screws or are of the fixed oriface and air bleeds.
Is it acting as if it is just a touch lean on the idle mixture, when the boat is lightly loaded it may work but get another person or two in and it bogs and can't get up?
The carbs are fixed no adjustments other then changing jets.
I still need to see how it acts with 2 people in the boat.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlieB
If I understand correctly you are saying that it bogs MOST of the time but that SOMETIMES it will get up and run OK?
Intermittant problems as this are tough to figure out but check to see if your carbs have idle mixture screws or are of the fixed oriface and air bleeds.
Is it acting as if it is just a touch lean on the idle mixture, when the boat is lightly loaded it may work but get another person or two in and it bogs and can't get up?
89 Mariner 135hp -- Stator help needed
Linear Mode
