The two wires going to the stator are corroded/bare. I'd like to replace them. I think I need to take the flywheel? off. Any suggestions? Is this relatively easy to do? I have a wheelpuller but not sure if I should use it. Thanks.
You'll need the type of puller that has slots to accept bolts like a damper puller. The kind that have jaws won't work.
Unfortunately, the wires are an integral part of the stator and cant be replaced. You could cut away the corroded part and solder in new if you are so inclined I suppose.
Curious why the jaw-type puller won't work...becuause it doesn't hook on or because it'll break some of the teeth off? I tried it out and it looks like it will get a hold of the flywheel...just not sure if it'll break the teeth off.
I think the wires are corroded pretty much right up to where they disappear into the stator. Any ideas where to get a stator for not much?
Isn't that a shame the way they made that? If only they had put terminals on the stator so wiring could be replaced easily. My '77 850's stator is in similar condition...I've managed to splice new wiring on there this time...but eventually I'll have to replace the stator.
Mercury sure used crappy wiring back in the 70's. I have a Johnson of similiar vintage and it shows no wiring fatigue at all.
Can I use any kind of wires as long as they're close in size, etc. or do they need to be special? Also does anyone know how much a new stator is and where to get it? thanks
You should be able to find a good used stator off eBay, these are quite common and any stator from a distributor-fired 99 C.I. motor should work.
The reason you don't want to use a jaw puller on the flywheel is you can break the 'flex plate' which is the thin, tempered steel part that joins the center hub and outer ring together. This type of flywheel typically dampens vibrations better than a solid flywheel but needs to be handled with care in order to prevent damage.
If you pull (2) bolts opposite each other and use an automotive harmonic balancer puller (along with Grade 8 or better 5/16"-NF bolts), you should be able to pull it right off. If you have an Autozone nearby, they rent free (with a refundable full-price-for-the-tool deposit) this type of puller.
The center hub is threaded for the factory-style screw-in puller which is also available aftermarket from a number of places (including here and on eBay to name a few). These work very well and usually "pop" the flywheel with little effort.
I'd like to suggest one more way, which, if you're careful, will also work: remove all the bolts holding the flex plate to the center hub and you can get the stator off without pulling the center hub.
Note that you need to make some very accurate match-marks on the flex plate and also on the hub, so you can bolt them back up in the exact position they were in prior to disassembly. Otherwise, you won't be able to check/adjust timing as the flywheel will no longer line up to Top Dead Center.
Before pulling everything apart you'll want to position the flywheel; run it around until the "TDC" mark is aligned with the timing pointer.
DO NOT move the flywheel or crankshaft after you've positioned it. As a safety, make additional match marks to relate a tooth on the flywheel to a stationary point on the block.
After than you can remove flywheel bolts then the flywheel assy (sans hub).
Once you've pulled the flywheel assy, there are (4) screws or allen-heads holding the stator to the bearing end cap. Install the replacement stator with a drop of blue Loctite on each screw/bolt.
Reinstall the flywheel, with a drop of red Loctite on each bolt. Before reefing on the flywheel bolts, reinstall the timing pointer to its original position.
Torque the flwheel bolts to approx 25 ft-lb. I couldn't find a torque spec in the manual but if you check an SAE chart that's about average for a Grade 8 fine-threaded 5/16". The red Loctite will assure the bolts don't loosen up.
Note that if you were to inadvertently move the flywheel and lose the position of the pointer in relation to the flywheel, there's a procedure in the manual to reset to exact TDC.
Ellis, On my '77 Merc 1500 I can remove the stator without removing the center part of the flywheel. I remove the 6 5/16 fine thread bolts in a circle near the large flywheel nut, that hold the flexplate onto the center of the flywheel, and the stator can be unbolted.
hehe...that's the way that I examined the stator on my '78 85HP...by removing the flexplate.
I didn't know enough not to do it that way...but fortunately for me; my limited knowledge and understanding of what I was doing caused me to make appropriate alignment scribes...and also kept me from allowing the crank to turn while it was apart. I got it back together without incident.
Funny thing though...I have both the genuine Merc manual...and had access to a generic Seloc or equivalent one as well...and nowhere did it caution against removing those flex-plate bolts. That's something I'd expect a manual to mention. Part of the reason for owning one; eh?
As for buying a used Stator....wouldn't you be apt to get more corroded wires?
The flex plate on my '77 can go on any of six ways. However, it is easy to get it on correctly. Just set the motor to TDC on #1 cylinder with a screwdriver. Now set the flexplate to TDC, and bolt it on. Since the holes are 60 degrees apart, it shouldn't be too hard to get is correct.
Thanks guys, for all your help. I decided to go the "rewiring" route and see if I can do without a new $200 stator -- at least for now. I took the flex plate off without taking the center hub off like some of you were saying and found the stator. Took it off and cut the old wires. Soldered/crimped new wires on and reassembled everything. Engine started right up. I know this is a temporary fix, but maybe it'll last me the summer at least. Thanks again. Go iboats mechanics.
Replacing stator wires on a '79 90HP Mercury
Re: Replacing stator wires on a '79 90HP Mercury
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