Silvertips wiring diagram

Joined
Feb 1, 2007
Messages
14
What are some examples of both “switched accessories” and “unwished accessories”?

What wires go directly to the battery other then the outboard motor itself and the fuse/breaker panel?

Any other wiring diagrams like for the ignition avaliable?

Just starting out...
 

Silvertip

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,762
Re: Silvertips wiring diagram

Depth finder, locators, radios, are just a few accessories that do not need a separate switch since the device has a power switch. Switched accessories are live wells, interior lighting, horns, windlass, remote spotlights, etc. The motor has large POS and NEG battery cables that obviously go to the start battery. If you have a bilge pump, that should be powered directly from the battery with a float switch or it can have a separate switch at the helm. The engine wire harness carries +12V and ground, tach, temp/overheat, ignition and tilt and trim wires to the control box at the helm. That wiring is unique to each engine manufacturer and as engines get more sophisticated, can vary significantly so you need factory service manuals for those diagrams. .
 
Joined
Feb 1, 2007
Messages
14
Re: Silvertips wiring diagram

Thank you Silvertip
Two more questions please
In the diagram you show a “Master” switch jut to the left of the panel, is that the Perko ON-OFF switch near the battery?

The positive wire coming from the gauges says “”from Ignition Switch” that will be hooked up to one of the Ignition Switch terminals but not the same Ignition Switch terminal that the (positive) wire from the motor wiring harness. Is that correct?
 

Silvertip

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Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,762
Re: Silvertips wiring diagram

The MASTER switch can be anything you want it to be. It can be a heavy duty ON-OFF switch at the helm that simply kills power to the fuse/breaker panel. It could also be the a Perko (or other) ON-OFF battery switch at the battery, or a OFF-1-BOTH-2 switch if you are running a dual battery system. Some of the gauges require +12V for operation. They include the Temp, fuel, tach, voltmeter and for four stroke engines, an oil pressure gauge. Those gauges need to be turned off when the engine stops so the "switched" +12V line from the ignition switch does that automaticaly. The +12V line in the engine harness that feeds the ignition switch is the is not the same wire that powers the gauges. The key switch simply turns the ACCESSORY terminal on the switch on and off. The harness wire is the "feed" to the switch. The ACC terminal feeds other accessories like the gauges.
 
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