where can I get a mercury 9.9 starter rebuild kit?

sgschref · #1 April 1st, 2007, 01:39 PM

Motor serial #OD193180

I've figured out my starter is not working but it looks OK, i.e. all the housing and gear and shaft and springs (exposed part) look fine but there must be something inside that doesn't work. Is it fairly straight forward to rebuild starters? and if so where can I get the rebuild kit? I've tried looking online and can't seem to find it...thanks!

tashasdaddy · #2 April 1st, 2007, 02:38 PM

welcome to iboats. if you're talking about an electric starter, just take it to and automotive starter rebuild shop.

tashasdaddy · #3 April 1st, 2007, 02:44 PM

or Mercury parts express.com

http://www.mercurypartsexpress.com/P...onframeSet.asp

Silvertip · #4 April 1st, 2007, 08:06 PM

Before you rebuild it, make sure it's bad. Using a pair of jumper cables, connect the positive cable directly to the large terminal on the starter. Connect the other cable to engine block, or if you have the starter removed, connect it to the metal housing. Hang onto the starter as it will tend to roll if it does run. If it doesn't run, then rebuild it.

Don S · #5 April 1st, 2007, 08:48 PM

Why don't you just explain what your problem is. From the sounds of it you haven't done anything but look at the outside with tells you nothing.

sgschref · #6 April 3rd, 2007, 01:55 PM

Thanks for all of your replies. I spent a fair amount of time doing diagnostics before I asked the question. First, I tested the power to the solenoid and my batteries, which were fine. Then I jumped the solenoid and got nothing. Then I removed the starter and did what you suggested which was to connect the positive directly to the battery and the negative to the starter housing, and got nothing, so I determined I needed a new starter. Well I can't afford a new starter so decided to try and rebuild it. The gear and pin and shaft assmebly seem to be turning just fine so I figured I needed a new brush kit (item 38 on Merc parts list) but Merc doesn't sell this part so that's why I was looking for an alternate source. Thanks for your help!

sgschref · #7 April 3rd, 2007, 02:12 PM

Thanks again everyone for your replies. I took Tashasdaddy's advice and called a starter rebuild shop and they told me it would cost approx. $140. A new starter is approx. $180, so I thought buying new would be smarter...if I wanted to spend the money!

See the thing is my daughter has autism and my wife gets pretty upset when I spend money on stuff other than my daughter's therapy. But I need my toys too or I'll go crazy!!

Am I even crazier to think I can rebuild my starter? or should I just find the money and get a new one? If anyone can help me find a source for the rebuild kit I would really appreciate.

With sincere gratitutde,
sgschref

tashasdaddy · #8 April 3rd, 2007, 02:12 PM

a lot of starters use the same brushes, that why i recommended an auto starter/alternator rebuilder.

billybones · #9 April 5th, 2007, 03:39 AM

Some one is supplying the rebuild shop with brushes. The reason that the rebuild is nearly the same as a new one is that they replace all the bearings and gears and brushes new. They just keep the frame and the windings. It is the same as going to murrays and buying a rebuilt for your car. So the savings equalls the same. But some one sells the brushes. Might try taking them out and see if there is a number or company name on them. It won't be Mercury. or they would have them for ya. once out and in hand You might be able to find a size and length and it might be as easy as driving down to graingers and getting some...HTH. Edit I used to do my 70 mach1 starter about every 6 months. It was not that hard. So no you are not crazy just have to get through that wall put up by the industry.

Silvertip · #10 April 5th, 2007, 10:43 AM

The rebuild shop will sell you the brushes. Take the old brushes out and take them with you to NAPA or any other larger auto parts store. If the counter guy/gal is worth their weight they will drag out a bunch of brushes that you can make work. If they are a little wide, cut them down. If they are a little long, cut them off.

sgschref · #11 April 6th, 2007, 07:09 PM

Well I removed the starter and took it to Schuks Auto store where the guys are very helpful. He decided to test it and it worked! Although it sparked and spit and the nut connecting the cable to the starter was really rusted. So I removed the cable and scrubbed it with a wire brush and reinstalled it.

I also scrubbed the other nuts and bolts at the motor connections and got out my voltmeter and put negative lead on the ground connection at the motor and the positive lead on the connection at the solenoid. It read 13 volts. Then I turned the key and voltage dropped to zero and nothing happened. No noise at all. So I tried to bypass the solenoid by taking a screwdriver and laying it across the bolts, effectively jumping the solenoid. This should engage the starter but doesn't. When I do that the voltage drops to zero. Then I tested to see if the starter was grounded and it was (hi Ohm reading). I also tested the voltage at the solenoid and when I turn the key the solenoid seems to be working (sending voltage to the starter).

One other bit of info: I hooked the leads to the two posts on top of the solenoid (small nuts with small wires). When I turn the key it reads just a few volts. What does this mean I wonder? Is this the signal from the key? Should it be more than just a few volts?

Any ideas?

tashasdaddy · #12 April 6th, 2007, 09:07 PM

did you take a car jumper cable, connect to pos post on battery, then touch the bolt on starter. this is a direct test. this will tell you to start backing down the line.

billybones · #13 April 8th, 2007, 12:44 AM

From the entire post it still sounds like bad brushes. taking it to the store and having it work there sounds about the same as banging on a starter to get a couple of more starts. Hi ohm reading is not grounded either. Grounded is about as close to zero as you can get there. the frame of the starter is the return for the circuit. Hi ohms will get you no voltage. the reading from the positive cable nut to the frame of the starter should not be very high. If it is the brushes are not seated very well. plus with the positive cable off of the starter and the negative cable off of the battery you should get minimal resistance between the positive post on the starter and the negative end at the battery cable... [Note] test this with both cables off of the battery. one other thing bad check the cables resistance themselves. they should be about zero. that is a more comon problem then a lot of people realize. HTH. sorry for so long a post.