I have two lower units (large case) for this engine, One is blown out (freezing?) the other is newer in great shape. The problem is that when I was going to swap the lower units I found the top of the drive shaft spline pattern does not match. The old (damaged) LU has 4 splines set 90 deg apart, the new one has numerous (did not count). My question is, can I swap drive shafts? What should I look out for when doing this? and where can I get a pair of Truarc pliers (snap ring pliers) long enough to reach to get the rings out so I can get the gears out so I can reach the pinion gear nut at the end of the drive shaft? I know it is a lot to ask I just picked this mint engine up, expecting it to be an easy swap. the guy I bought it from also had the lower unit that I am trying to swap. They refer to a special tool (manual) to torque the nut does anyone know what that is??
Don t know about the drive shaft but you can get the pliers at just about any larger parts store. I get mine from Steve's Wholesale Tools in tulsa only six dollars but also have a pair from snap on that were 120 both work the same. Both are locking which is important because if you lose one there is no telling where it is going and it will hurt if it gets you.
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Re: Drive shaft Evinrude 75hp 1983
Take it to any Johnnyrude dealer and have them removed for you, do the job, then have them put them back. They probably wouldn't charge much and if you buy your seal kit and impeller there they may not charge anything at all.
Two special tools are called for when torqing the driveshaft nut. A spline socket and a special wrench for the nut. You can use a regular open-end wrench in place of the special wrench, but the spline socket is pretty much a must. That might be another dealer-assist task.
I'm not confident that the driveshafts will swap, but I wouldn't dismiss the possibility. I'm going to go out on a limb and say your replacement gearcase is from 1978 or newer. The gearcases may have slightly different mounting patterns. I know from a past failed attempt that a 1978+ V-4 gearcase won't fit a -1977 V-4 midsection. I think they're the same as used on the triples. The mounting patterns looked the same until I got them side-by-side and looked real close. So even if the driveshafts swap, the gearcase might not fit.
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The shafts will swap fine - I did one a few years ago. the 70/75 use the same bolt pattern all the way through... However, I would have a dealer set the pinion/forward gear clearances for you, as there may be a slight difference between the shafts - enough to cause shortened gear life if not set properly.
wow some good advice here. Thanks to all for the postings and where I can get those pliers...I saw them at 120 as well and figured I would rather pay someone rather than buy a set that I'll use a couple times. I was thinking to just replace the drive shaft replacing all the spacers/shims where they were. Would that not be good enough? I'll check the bolt pattern again it looks like a fit but you never know. The local shop should be able to tell.
Special tools...that is why they charge so much. I was thinking a reseal and WP since it wil be ripped apart, silly not to. Is there a way to tell what year the LU came from? Now if I can getthe gyto pony up some cash since I paid for a motor without having to pay someone else to replace the drive shaft. XXing my fingers in hopes that this will work.
Thanks to all, any additional info wil be appreciated.
No, I'm not that fotunate the lower section (gears) is where the break is. I am going to check with a local marina to see if they'll do it. A pound of prevention and all that stuff. No sense in doing it wrong to fail when I am out there...after all it IS only money. I am sure the guy I bought it from will do right by this.
Since everyone was so helpful I thought I would give an update. I brought the two LU's to the marina, and they do have the 4 special tools...not for rent :| so I just bit the bullet and asked how much? Nice guy, checked the LU's out and said "yup they'll swap". Ok how much, $150 for the labor plus parts. I was going to put a new water pump in anyway so I said alright lets do it. So $150 and I'll have a good LU and a bunch of spare parts. I was looking around and a set of gears are 300+ and the drive shaft is 400+. Crazy money, no wonder why they cost what they do. I'll post when I get this back to let you all know how it went. Thanks for all the help.
Hi Everyone, I picked up the LU yesterday and couldn't wait to get it bolted on adn start her up, since I have never ran this engine. The drive shaft change over worked without an issue everything fell into place. Placed a new water pump kit on it as well, all for the low low price of 163.00. He performed a vacuum and pressure test as well, and all passed with flying colors. This isn't too bad since the cost of the drive shaft swap was 100.00, gear lube 8.00, about 10.00 for tax and the rest (~ 45) was the water pump. The pump that was on there was melted, now I know why they sold the lower unit and not the top half, probably burned it up. I have never seen an impeller this bad.
Bolted the LU on this morning and attached the controls. Now here we go, got it running...sort of, I can start it, and it will idle, but every once in a while I need to hit the choke. If I increase RPM then I have to hit the choke more often. Not a good sign, I think the carbs have to be rebuilt. I will post this for opinions and how to's. As well as thought on possible other causes.
Thanks for all the help I look forward to returning the favor...if anyone need a driveshaft for a 60-75 Evinrude (not four spline) ~ 1990 let me know.
Drive shaft Evinrude 75hp 1983
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