difficult to start

bwkboy

Cadet
Joined
Jan 11, 2007
Messages
7
Hi to you all,
my first posting so please bare with me.
I have a 1985 15/hp evinrude, runs realy great but very hard to start when engine is cold. Full choke, second pull and it fires once then it takes about a dozen pulls to start. I have tried 1/2, full and no choke all to no avail.
Please advise.
Thank you.
bwkboy
 

bwkboy

Cadet
Joined
Jan 11, 2007
Messages
7
Re: difficult to start

bwkboy said:
Hi to you all,
my first posting so please bare with me.
I have a 1985 15/hp evinrude, runs realy great but very hard to start when engine is cold. Full choke, second pull and it fires once then it takes about a dozen pulls to start. I have tried 1/2, full and no choke all to no avail.
Please advise.
Thank you.
bwkboy
Sory, I should have added that I have new spark plugs and the gaps are correct.
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Re: difficult to start

Start procedure.... Pump fuel bulb up hard, have engine in neutral, close choke, apply throttle, crank engine. It should start.

The throttle should be applied to a extent as far as it will go, or to an extent just so that it doesn't jam the manual starter.

Spark plugs should be Champion QL77JC4 plugs gapped at .040.

Check compression. Usually one can tell if that is okay on both cylinders simply by pulling the engine over BUT it's a good idea to purchase a compression tester to be positive the readings are okay and even.

Spark.... With the spark plugs removed, the spark should jump a 7/16" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame.... a real SNAP! Does it?

If the above checks out okay, that leaves a fuel problem. Make sure that the choke butterfly is actually closing when you pull the choke lever out.

It's possible that the slow speed needle valve is misadjusted, and if so.....

(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

Note: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

If all of the above is as it should be, and the problem still exists, that would indicate that the carburetor is fouled. Remove, clean, and rebuild it.

Note: Your 2nd post about the s/plugs.... That doesn't tell us exactly what plugs you're using or what gap you have them set at.

Let us know what you find.
 

bwkboy

Cadet
Joined
Jan 11, 2007
Messages
7
Re: difficult to start

Joe said:
Start procedure.... Pump fuel bulb up hard, have engine in neutral, close choke, apply throttle, crank engine. It should start.

The throttle should be applied to a extent as far as it will go, or to an extent just so that it doesn't jam the manual starter.

Spark plugs should be Champion QL77JC4 plugs gapped at .040.

Check compression. Usually one can tell if that is okay on both cylinders simply by pulling the engine over BUT it's a good idea to purchase a compression tester to be positive the readings are okay and even.

Spark.... With the spark plugs removed, the spark should jump a 7/16" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame.... a real SNAP! Does it?

If the above checks out okay, that leaves a fuel problem. Make sure that the choke butterfly is actually closing when you pull the choke lever out.

It's possible that the slow speed needle valve is misadjusted, and if so.....

(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

Note: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

If all of the above is as it should be, and the problem still exists, that would indicate that the carburetor is fouled. Remove, clean, and rebuild it.

Note: Your 2nd post about the s/plugs.... That doesn't tell us exactly what plugs you're using or what gap you have them set at.

Let us know what you find.
 

bwkboy

Cadet
Joined
Jan 11, 2007
Messages
7
Re: difficult to start

Thank you so much Joe for the fast responce. The plugs are thr right ones but the gap is 030.
The S/S needle valve, is that just above the choke butterfly on the right hand side of the carbie?
Thank you again.
bwkboy

Joe said:
Start procedure.... Pump fuel bulb up hard, have engine in neutral, close choke, apply throttle, crank engine. It should start.

The throttle should be applied to a extent as far as it will go, or to an extent just so that it doesn't jam the manual starter.

Spark plugs should be Champion QL77JC4 plugs gapped at .040.

Check compression. Usually one can tell if that is okay on both cylinders simply by pulling the engine over BUT it's a good idea to purchase a compression tester to be positive the readings are okay and even.

Spark.... With the spark plugs removed, the spark should jump a 7/16" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame.... a real SNAP! Does it?

If the above checks out okay, that leaves a fuel problem. Make sure that the choke S/S needle valve is actually closing when you pull the choke lever out.

It's possible that the slow speed needle valve is misadjusted, and if so.....

(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

Note: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

If all of the above is as it should be, and the problem still exists, that would indicate that the carburetor is fouled. Remove, clean, and rebuild it.

Note: Your 2nd post about the s/plugs.... That doesn't tell us exactly what plugs you're using or what gap you have them set at.

Let us know what you find.
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Re: difficult to start

I believe you're referring to the actual choke pull lever instead of the butterfly?

The slow speed adjustable needle valve should be at the very top front portion of the carburetor.
 

bwkboy

Cadet
Joined
Jan 11, 2007
Messages
7
Re: difficult to start

Sory Joe, it is the one with the big black knob at the right handside of the chock lever, daaaaw, I feel an idiot, should have knowen. There are two very small screws on the right hand side of the carbie looking at it from inside the boat, one above the other, which is which please Joe, and thank you again for your help.
This is my first outboard motor and am not familure with 2 strokes.
bwkboy.

Joe said:
I believe you're referring to the actual choke pull lever instead of the butterfly?

The slow speed adjustable needle valve should be at the very top front portion of the carburetor.
 

tashasdaddy

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Nov 11, 2005
Messages
51,019
Re: difficult to start

if you're going to try to maintain this engine yourself, you need a manual, the seloc's are ok, but the original rude are more complete. rude manuals are at kencooke.com/evinrude. seloc's in iboats store.
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Re: difficult to start

Yes, that knob would be the slow speed adjustment knob. It simply pulls off/pushes on the slow speed needle valve. As "Tash" states above, obtain a manual as without it, one mistake could really cost you.
 

bwkboy

Cadet
Joined
Jan 11, 2007
Messages
7
Re: difficult to start

Thank Joe and Tash for your help. I am machanicly minded and have a good idea about 4 engines. I would love to have a manaul but as yet have not been able to find one here in Australia. I will keep on trying.
Thanks again
 

tashasdaddy

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Nov 11, 2005
Messages
51,019
Re: difficult to start

the seloc manuals are better than nothing, you can get here at the i boats store. the original equipment manual PN#507508, may be able to find on ebay or a new one at kencooke.com/johnsonevinrude for $70.00 US plus shipping.
 

ezeke

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 19, 2003
Messages
12,532
Re: difficult to start

While you are waiting for your manual, you can download a lot of information on your motor from this site:

"http://www.wisnersinc.com/Fishing%20Info/Fishinginfo_main.html"

Copy the link to your browser without the quotation marks, and scroll to the bottom of the page.
 
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