1320buster
Cadet
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2007
- Messages
- 8
I have a 1992 Evinrude 4hp Deluxe with no spark on either cylinder. I checked the run/stop switch wiring with my ohmmeter and with the safety clip installed it is infinite, with it removed or the button pushed the resistance goes to 0, this checks with proper indications from the Seloc manual. Does this check with what you would think is correct?
I checked the charge coil according to the following:
4. A resistance check can be used to statically check the charge coil (and the wiring harness), but keep in mind that a coil could test within spec statically, but show a fault dynamically (especially once operating temperatures are reached). Of course, this is your only option for testing the charge coil on UFI motors, so do your best. And, one small advantage of the resistance check is that not everyone has access to a peak-reading .
l. With the 5-pin connector still disengaged from the previous steps (or the flywheel and other components removed for access on UFI models directly to the wires), probe across terminals A (brown lead) and D (brown/yellow lead) from the charge coil. On UFI models the terminal references are not applicable, but the wire colors should be the same.
m. Resistance should be 800-1000 ohms for a component at about 68° F (20° C) or the charge coil is out of specification. Please note that the specification given is for all 1991 and later models with either CDI or UFI, however the specification for 1990 UFI models differs and is only 535-585 ohms.
It says that the wire colors should be the same, does that mean as in brown and brown/yellow or should they both be the same color? I have no brown wire, both are yellow/brown, so I checked the resistance across them and it reads 0000, which does not match with the 800-1000 that it should be, but I wonder if I am checking the correct wiring, since they are both brown/yellow and there is no brown. I would hate to replace this module if in fact I am just checking resistance in the wrong place....
The only other item that I am thinking is that both power packs have gone bad... There is a metal clip on on one end of each of the power packs and some fiber washers, are those metal tabs on the power packs supposed to be insulated from ground or grounded to the motor. On the right hand powerpack (looking rear to front) the powerpack is grounded via a wire on the outboard side of the powerpack, but should it be insulated on the motor side? The left hand powerpack has no ground wire, so I am assuming that it has to be grounded in some fashion... or does it require the fiber insulation washers on both side??
I checked the charge coil according to the following:
4. A resistance check can be used to statically check the charge coil (and the wiring harness), but keep in mind that a coil could test within spec statically, but show a fault dynamically (especially once operating temperatures are reached). Of course, this is your only option for testing the charge coil on UFI motors, so do your best. And, one small advantage of the resistance check is that not everyone has access to a peak-reading .
l. With the 5-pin connector still disengaged from the previous steps (or the flywheel and other components removed for access on UFI models directly to the wires), probe across terminals A (brown lead) and D (brown/yellow lead) from the charge coil. On UFI models the terminal references are not applicable, but the wire colors should be the same.
m. Resistance should be 800-1000 ohms for a component at about 68° F (20° C) or the charge coil is out of specification. Please note that the specification given is for all 1991 and later models with either CDI or UFI, however the specification for 1990 UFI models differs and is only 535-585 ohms.
It says that the wire colors should be the same, does that mean as in brown and brown/yellow or should they both be the same color? I have no brown wire, both are yellow/brown, so I checked the resistance across them and it reads 0000, which does not match with the 800-1000 that it should be, but I wonder if I am checking the correct wiring, since they are both brown/yellow and there is no brown. I would hate to replace this module if in fact I am just checking resistance in the wrong place....
The only other item that I am thinking is that both power packs have gone bad... There is a metal clip on on one end of each of the power packs and some fiber washers, are those metal tabs on the power packs supposed to be insulated from ground or grounded to the motor. On the right hand powerpack (looking rear to front) the powerpack is grounded via a wire on the outboard side of the powerpack, but should it be insulated on the motor side? The left hand powerpack has no ground wire, so I am assuming that it has to be grounded in some fashion... or does it require the fiber insulation washers on both side??
