Help update my trailer

Ofcourse, I don't know what my trailer is but I have pics and it's for my 14' semi-v. I am in the process of repainting it. I am stripping it down to bare metal and using rustoleom primer and paint. Any advise besides from what i am asking would also be really appreciated.

My first concern is the hubs... or actually lack there of. you will see in the pics, there is just a spindle welded to the independent suspension with a wheel that has the bearings built in. I do not like this, seems like a rigged up deal or a really old design. I want hubs so that on the road repairs are quick and easy where I can just remove the wheel, remove the entire hub and replace. How are spindles normally attatched? Pics? Do spindles normally get damaged by bearing failure? How can I attatch the backing plate for the hub? I have tried researching but only stuff I have seen are solid axels. and it just seems that simply the square backing plate is welded to the sqaure axle :/

Second, you can see up front, the trailer has a pipe welded up instead of a square one. I will have this replaced somewhere local so I can have a newer style reciever put on, a spare tire holder, jack, and a proper wench/stop mount hooked up. right now, the winch and stop isn't really adjustable.

Third, it looks like the bunk supports have been cut and angled back for some reason. I have yet to place my boat on the trailer to see how things fit like that because i got it with the boat sitting upside down but if it does, does every still look solid? I have all of the bunks removed and the center part of the trailer that goes from the back to the front removed for paint. there are bunk boards along the back, for the rear of the boat to sit on with a roller in the center i guess for initially getting the boat on the trailer. there are boards on the front cross beam for the front to sit on, and ofcourse the bunk boards sitting along the side. I will post pics again with everything assembled later on but do you guys have any advise when it comes to supports and such?

Finally, whats up with my suspension? Is there factory or a rigged up job? It certainly doesn't meet my standards so I'm concerned it is even suppose to be like this. for example, you can see the double nutting!!! Whats that about? can people not afford a lock washer? geeeez!!!!! What can/should I do?

The bearing caps are not like bearing buddies with a spring, thats just a grease fitting. I will have bearing buddies when the time comes. Here it is

Re: Help update my trailer

to be honest, cut it up and sell the scrap. it 's a 40's-50's designed trailer. for $500 you can find a used trailer, replace the bearing, and lights from walmart. for $50.00. don't put any money into that one.

Re: Help update my trailer

You probably won't like my answer, but I would cut up the existing trailer and sell it for scrap. To "update" this trailer is a major operation since it requires some cutting, welding, and other fabrication. However, if you are in love with this trailer here is what I would do. I would remove the independent suspension pieces entirely so all you are left with is the basic frame. Measure the frame width and then order a light duty axle from Champion Trailers, complete with leaf springs. Have the front and rear spring shakles welded on, replace the tongue with something a little more substantial, add new hubs, wheels and tires and you will be good to go. But my suggestion again, is to sell it, scrap it, or arrange for its theft, and then buy a more modern trailer. It will cost you the same either way and be far less trouble.

Re: Help update my trailer

as you can see we are in agreement, except it will cost you more to restore than to buy another trailer.

Re: Help update my trailer

Wow! didn't expect that. lol

I can't afford another trailer. This boat and trailer cost me only 125bucks

It is still safe to use isn't it? I drove it 2hrs from where i got it down some dirt roads and highway. I plan on using it atleast once a year for lond distance trips 300+miles

Re: Help update my trailer

I'd haul that Trailer around the Block,........
Once or Maybe Twice,.........

But,...... I Wouldn't invest a Single Dime, or Minute of Time to do what you propose to Do.........

I gotta Agree with whats been Said,...... That's an Antique,+ in Pretty Tough Shape....

Once you get passed the Paint,+ Lights,........
A Replacement Trailer will be Hundreds of Dollars Cheaper.............

Second, you can see up front, the trailer has a pipe welded up instead of a square one. I will have this replaced somewhere local so I can have a newer style reciever put on, a spare tire holder, jack, and a proper wench/stop mount hooked up.

Click to expand...

You'll be More than Doubling your investment.....
That Alone would Pay For a replacement Used Trailer......
1 that you could Load the Boat,+ Slap a Plate on it,+ Go Fishin'.................

Re: Help update my trailer

How much do trailers cost? I tried searching on ebay but didn't find much and the manufatures I came across googling didn't give prices.

I respect your opinions....It's just kind of a downer. I really didn't pay anything for this trailer but I hate to trash it

Re: Help update my trailer

You said you can't afford a new one! So what did you expect to pay for the upgrades? Here's a few figures for you to chew on: New 8-inch wheels and tires: $40 each x 2 = $80. New hubs & bearings: $45.00/pair. You are now at $125.00. New axle: $69 puts the total at $194. New set of lights (complete kit with wire): $49 which brings the total to $243. Coupler: $13. Total is now $256. You need a new tongue (on the trailer): Removal of old one, material and fabrication of new one: Mostly labor but likely in the neighborhood of $100 if you are lucky. Let's see -- we are at $356. Another $50 for springs, shackles and u-bolts puts you over the $400 mark. Without searching too much I think I can find you a dozen trailers in far better shape and probably less than five years old for that kind of money. The prices I quoted were from Northern Tool catalog. In fact they have a small boat trailer in their catalog for $349 brand spanking new with "free fenders". #12541-2605 on page 243. There ya go. I did your work for you.

Re: Help update my trailer

Local Swap Sheets,.....
Local Newspapers,......
On somebodie's Front Lawn,... Or maybe in the Backyard,.....
In the Backyard of a Marina,......

You should be able to Find a trailer for that little boat for around $100.00....... $200.00 with a Good Title,+ Tires,+ Lights.......

How about a little Utility trailer,..... Just add Bunks for the Boat......
Wallyworld or someplace around you Must sell those little Suitcase Trailers........
Just Stuff a Longer Neape on it........

Re: Help update my trailer

350 bucks....with a price like that, you definatly put me in my place. I expected trailers to be well over 500 bucks.

the thought came across my mind today about using a utility trailer...we'll see.

Well guys, I appreciate the input 8)

Re: Help update my trailer

Do look around as others said, try to find a galvanized one if you can, they need way less maintenance than painted. To give you an idea what it costs to really rehab a trailer, I replaced the axle, springs, added brakes and additional rollers to my 94 Load Rite, and just the cost of the parts was 130 for the axle, 400 for the brake kit, about 40 for springs, the rollers were a few hundred, you can see it really adds up. Of course this is for a much bigger and heavier boat, but you get the idea. If you want to be safe it's gonna cost something.

Re: Help update my trailer

I'll look around. I'm just bummed. It's like getting a used car and having to put in a new engine after a month :'(

I need a straight answer though...Is my trailer safe to use? Is my tounge setup unsafe? Is my suspension unsafe?

I guess this is going to turn into a buying a trailer thread. Do you guys have a trailer manufacture to recommend? plug galvanized, what else should I look/watch out for?
Thanks guys

Re: Help update my trailer

looking at the 1st &2nd picture the suspension guide is out of the frame, unsafe, the rusted pipe tongue, unsafe. the rusted wheels, and welds, unsafe. it's an accident waiting to happen. look at this, and shipping to your area is only about 12 - 13 dollars.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=5002

Re: Help update my trailer

The trick to buying anything is not buy it first and then wonder if you got a deal or not. You need to look at what you "intend" to buy and then figure out if its worth the money. The last thing I will mention about this is that I don't see a spare tire. If you do intend to use this thing and have a flat or blow out somewhere, you will not find a replacement wheel and therefore have to have the rig towed. Guess how much that will cost.

Re: Help update my trailer

Trailer doesn't look all that bad to me. Rust looks surface mostly. Only real worry I would have is bearings, spindles and coupler which can't see in pictures. Could just replace the bearings and seals if spindles ok and perhaps have a modern coupler welded onto the present tongue. Would want to do the bearings/seals on any trailer purchased other than new anyway so that cost is not really safely avoidable. Other than that would have to agree with others that not worth putting any other real money into. Should be able to find a already good safe trailer for under $300. I purchased a galvanized 16' - 18' Easy Loader roller trailer in almost new condition for $350 and saw many others like it for around that while looking. Ebay, search for 'boat trailer' and refine to only ones under Ebay Motors and also online check out Craigs list and local paper sites ads.

BTW, I suspect double nutting was done to leave spacing so parts could still rotate. Jam and Nylok nuts are often used in this way.

Re: Help update my trailer

Tash -- the suspension guide you mentioned in the second picture is not a guide. It is a friction type of shock absorber and is in the correct location. This was a first generation shock design used on early cars. In my view this trailer is simply not worth spending a nickle on -- with one exception. Restoring it to original condition for show purposes and hauling a boat of the same vintage.

Re: Help update my trailer

looking at the wear marks, it looks like it should be riding, in the frame and pointing toward the rear. the way it is, it looks like any upward movement of the wheel will push it into the boat.

Re: Help update my trailer

The round cup is welded to the frame. It has a friction disk inside it. Tightening the nut at the end of the shaft increases friction. Not a very effective system (on this trailer or a car) but at least they tried.

Re: Help update my trailer

I may be one of the lone dissenters here. Ca$h strapped, I can relate-been there. You can still make it safe.

Those hubs are of the utility trailer type. Most commonly seen on concrete mixer and small compressor trailers.

If it were me, I would remove the hubs/wheels and see what kind of spindle you have. If it is a standard 1" spindle with a slightly larger collar (inboard) you can put a standard (four lug) hub on it. If not, you need to have new spindles welded on. That is not real expensive either. The trick will be getting the same angle (toe).

You need to replace the tires/wheels anyway. If you go with replacement hubs, go with 12" tires/wheels.

I can't see the coupler but new ones are cheap. As long as you through bolt, or weld it, to the tongue, I would have no issues. I think the tongue may be OK. It depends on the wall thickness of that pipe.

If you replace the tongue, make it longer. The longer they are, the better they tow and back up.

Inspect all the welds on the trailer carefully. If you see no cracking, you're probably OK. I would take a close look at all the bolts that hold the suspension to the frame. If they are worn, replace them with grade 5 (stainless if you like) bolts with locking nuts.

For what it is worth. I believe that trailer is one of two makes: Dilly or Holsclaw. Both used independent suspensions, on some models.

Re: Help update my trailer

Rust: Almost all surface. Only place I have seen really eaten away is around the wiring holes as you can see in one picture. All welds do seem fine.

tires are new and supposidly so are all the bears and races. I need to take everything apart to look. all though, On my 2hr highway trip at 70mph. I stopped a couple times and the bearings were not hotter than they should have been.

Why do the wheels need to be replaced?