Hi guys.
I picked up this boat tuesday, last time it was used was in summer 05, it is a 77-78 Evinrude 115, Ithe guy who sold it to me said the engine is "cold start nature" and needed a shot or two of WD40 to the carbs, So tried to start it, and it fired up 2 times but would't run. Then I discovered a fuel squirt from tha old gas bulb so won't keep pressure and stopped trying.
What's the advice to put this baby up to date on maintennance?
TIA,
As a side note, the engine cover says 85, but he said it was a 115, how can I check the real HP?
EDIT: The engine model is 115493-B and the serial # is J0007629
Juan
I bought a boat with this same "cold nature start" last year (73, 115hp, Johnson), it blew a cylinder about 5 months later (I didn't realize this problem at first as the previous owner used either to warm the motor before I got there, after its warm it would start just fine).
If it doesn't start on its own, there are other problems with the motor. Hopefully, you can figure out your engine problems before something major occurs.
Otherwise, you need to inspect the fuels system and replace the water impellar. Spark plugs should probably be replaced also. Hope that I havne't been too negative, but there are plenty of folks on this website with much more experience than me who can help you.
I guess by now, you have found that your model number is for 1974. If you look on the engine block you should find a quarter sized welch plug with the same numbers stamped on it. That may give you better assurance of the HP.
You will find the series of motor that are very much like yours ran from 1973 through 1977 for the 115HP models. Many parts are the same and both new and used parts are fairly readily available from your local dealer or salvage yards.
Be sure to buy the largest dual purpose marine deep cycle battery that you can, because you need the power to generate the necessary 300RPM to cold start your engine.
The unregulated charger/rectifier that you have will not adapt to car batteries.
While you are visiting the Rapair.com link above, if you click on "downloads" you can download the 60+ page troubleshooting gude which will help you with the diagnostics of your electrical/ignition system.
Copy the links to your browser without the quotation marks.
after you get the squeeze ball replaced,be sure to see the choke is working properly.It's possible the choke is not activating the choke butterfly enough to properly choke the motor for cold start.There is no reason to HAVE to use other means to get the engine started.The problem would likely be in the choking of the engine.If the choke happens to be working properly,then you should look into the carbs
my motor is similar to yours and before the conn, rod bearing failure it would start at the bump of a key.even after sitting for two weeks.so should yours.probably a choke/carb issue.thats my guess. good luck.
Thanks fo r the info guys, now I know i have a 115, 1974.
Ok, here's an update. I got the fuel line/bulb from the dealer yesterday, and a set of plugs. No start.
The solenoid/choke is working, I took the carbs cover off to see how far the go and they open/close all the way. What I noticed on the the new plugs was that they don't have the electrode as the old ones they just have a metal point, they look flat. They look different now? That was what the dealer gave me for this motor.
I guess I'm gonna have to take the carbs off and clean them. Also, how much spark do I need to see from the plugs, I put the boot about 1/2 inch from the plug and I did'nt see any spark..
I'm waiting for my manual to come, hope will be here tomorrow....
EDIT: Plug wires look really old and the contacts kind of rusted inside the boot.
Thanks
The surface gap Champion is still recommended for the 115, 1973-1977. If you will do a lot of slow running, you may find that the QL77JC4, which are also recommended, will have fewer problems.
"http://www.boatsetup.com/SparkPlugChart.pdf"
Check for spark with all plugs out. Look for a 7/16 sharp blue flash.
Then, if you find that there is spark with no load, you will know that the problem is probably that the RPM are not high enough under load.
This link will show you a tester that is sold by iboats:
hey bud when i first got my motor it to would not start. i was using the same surface gap plugs your using. as soon as i put the champion l77jc4 plugs in it fired right up.you might want to try it.good luck.
It started! I cleaned and put the old plugs, drained the old gas out of the carbs, and sprayed some starter fluid :% ....it ran good, a little rough i'd say well not too bad since it was sitting for 2 years, I turned it off and it will start just with a touch...
I think i'm gonna run some sea foam saturday in the lake and see what happens. I still think its a good idea to clean the carbs. I was looking at the coils also and they look as thay are the originals, would it be a good idea to put some new ones??
make sure the impeller is pumping. they just come apart and quit. can clog cooling system.. i drop the lower unit. and change. also the lower unit oil. hate for you to go thru all this to get it running, and then burn it up.
we all need to support iboats marine store when ever possible. you get, competitive prices. fast shipping, top notch customer service. also it provides us, this great FREE forum.
A question on the impeller. I bought the boat last year in March and only ran the boat about 3-4 times between March and April. The guy replaced the Impeller when I bought it, so do you think it would need to be changed? Would it be a good idea to change the oil unit oil already also?
Change the lower unit oil at least once a season and change the seals on the fill and vent plugs.
Look the coils over carefully for cracks and for any signs of overheating. If neither are found there is no reason to replace them unless you are not getting fire.
You should remove and clean the ground on each coil and check the condition of the spark plug wires.
Thanks guys, Will do.
It was pumping warm water out of the exhaust, sides, but i only noticed a smaller amount of water being expelled out of the two upper holes, is this normal?
ok, I started it up again and it started at the first try with no shots of anything...I went ahead and put some seafoam into 6 gal of gas, and sprayed some at the carbs, now is not idling, and I think is running a little bit rough...weird yesterday was idling nice. Could it be that I put too much oil to the mix? or the seafom is cleaning up all inside and the iddle needs to be re adjusted? I dunno.....I guess I'm gonna have to wait to see how it runs in the water and after using all the steroided gas...any idea? Is it easy to adjust the idle? I just goy a manual out of emay on CD, but is kind of hard to find stuff....
Anyways here are 2 videos for those who like to watch...
ok you got it running, now with insulated pliers, while running, pull each plug wire, there should be a reduction in rpms, now replace and the rpms should pick back up. do this on each cylinder. if you don't get the change in rpms, then that cylinder is not running. is it spark or fuel. it could also be dirty carbs did you remove the air silencer and spray directly into the carbs.
we all need to support iboats marine store when ever possible. you get, competitive prices. fast shipping, top notch customer service. also it provides us, this great FREE forum.
ok you got it running, now with insulated pliers, while running, pull each plug wire, there should be a reduction in rpms, now replace and the rpms should pick back up. do this on each cylinder. if you don't get the change in rpms, then that cylinder is not running. is it spark or fuel. it could also be dirty carbs did you remove the air silencer and spray directly into the carbs.
Yes, I sprayed directly to the carbs.
Ok, Did that test, noticed change in RPM's in each cylinder, but in #4 when I removed the plug besides the reduction in rpm's I can hear this clicking noise, I think coming from the coil, and teh engine will stall. Can I just put some silicone to the coil or is calling for a new one?
Also, I saw some fuel dripping at the bottom of the carbs, removed silencer cover and it seems to come from two little tubes located between the choke and the butterflies what could it be?....oh well..welcome to the world of boats
That clicking noise you're hearing is probably the spark jumping through the insulation on the plug wire to the block. Most likely it's jumping right were it connects to the coil. Might be telling you to get new wires, or at least clip off the end and re-seat the one in the coil.
Thanks! yeah I was later at it and it started to get darker, I could see the spark jumping, but not from the wire, but from the plastic case of the coil to the metal "U" . So I covered all the area with silicone and is better and will idle better but still jumping every 30 seconds or so, I think I will have to replace that coil, it comes with the wire attached to it so it will have a new wire too. Let's see what happens.
What I still trying to figure out is the fuel leak from the carb....
Location: Port Charlotte FL (almost -- its coming along)Never mind - it'll never be the same
Posts: 15,671
Re: Evinrude 115 not starting
The fuel leak is probably from a leaking needle & seat or a misadjusted / stuck float. It really doesn't matter, the carbs should come off & get a good bath in carb cleaner. Then install new OE kits. A flooding carb is not good and a cloged carb will not flow fuel properly. Remember the oil is in the fuel. No fuel, no oil. Pistons don't like that.
I would replace that cracked coil as soon as possible. Beside the fact that the coil is not working correctly, bad coils are known to damage powerpacks.
BTW, Most of the mechanics here recommend not using any silicone products on or around the engine.
Evinrude 115 not starting
Linear Mode
