??? Evinrude E90Tlend 90HP - Adaptor to PowerHead Gasket ???
1992 Evinrude 90HP
90 Degree
Model E90Tlend
Serial G031533768
Hello. . . . I am planning on replacing the Adaptor to powerhead gasket (321727) on my motor this thursday, and was curious if you great guys with all your experience could give me any advice that the manual may not. Is there any specialty tools required for the job, and if so is there a go-around tool, or does and don'ts you could enlighten me on. Also if there are other things that should or could be replaced while doing the repair.
I have a factory manual, and it appears to be a relatively simple job, and while I am not a outboard mechanic I am fairly confident I can do the repair. You guys helped me out a lot with the set up of the motor and tuneing it in when I purchased it, and It was great to have the advise of professionals.
The shops all want $500 + to replace the gasket, and I cannot afford that so I will have to do it myself.
Thank you all VERY Much for any assistance or direction you can give me on this, as I am doing it this thursday. . . .
I have a Hoist, and an extra set of hands as well. . . SO thats good
What do you mean dropping the lower unit ??
Does that drop the drive shaft i.e. making it easier to re-set the power head??
I would imagine I will need to drain the gearcase in that case, and is there a gasket that needs to be replaced when removing the lower unit, and also with this in mind a guy should probably replace the impeller while in there then ???
I do not have the engine Puller / Eye Bolt system, is there a way around this without causing any damage to the motor ??? or should I just get one / make one. . . . .
Yes, dropping the lower unit gets the driveshaft out of the way and no, you don't have to drain the gearcase of buy any gaskets for it, but since you will already have it off might aqs well replace the waterpump.
The manual states to replace the driveshaft O ring, is that on the drive shaft, or in the area on the motor where the drive shaft inserts?
Also, the manual states the need of OMC Gel-Seal II for threads and such, and I was curious if there was a similar product that can be purchased at a local auto store that would work just as good, or should I get that specific sealant??
Also the manul stated the adaptor to power head gasket should be installed dry. . . it this right ??
What is a ball park $$ for a new impeller / water pump? That is all there is to replace right? Just the impeller . . .
One more thing, should the motor be broke in as if new again as a result of the new adaptor gasket, and re-tourqed after the first days use ??
Thank you again fo rthe insight, as Now I am really looking foreward to doing it myself !!
The oring is in a groove on the top of the driveshaft rjust below the splines. If its still there then you don't need to replace it, just grease the splines before putting the L/U back on.
The gel-seal is for some screws in the lower crankshaft bearing cap on the powerhead. You won't be messing with them. You should put some OMC gasket sealer on the threads of the 6 long bolts you take out to get the powerhead off. There are also 2 nuts in rear and 4 (I think) in the front.
Yes onstall the gasket dry on clean, dry surfaces.
If your waterpump cup and base plate are in good shape then just an impellor replacement will be fine. If the cup and/or baseplate have wear grooves then you should bu a "waterpump kit" and replace everything. Down here an impeller is around $40 and a kit is around $70
No break-in necessary.
gel seal can be bought at auto supply stores i think loc-tite call it gasket eliminator
use it on powerhead to adapter screws
while powerhead is off i would replace thermostats in addition to water pump--- put in a kit instead of just impeller
gel seal can be bought at auto supply stores i think loc-tite call it gasket eliminator
use it on powerhead to adapter screws
while powerhead is off i would replace thermostats in addition to water pump--- put in a kit instead of just impeller
Hello. . . . I had not even thought of the thermostat
You state I should change the Thermostats thus makeing me think there are two, but in the parts catalog I have for the engine shows there only bein one Thermostat ????????
Is there one or two ??
Thansk for all the help, and with the thermostat and gaskets I will need for that replacement, I will have to wait and ge them so I will have to put off the reapir. . .
How flakey are the thermostats or could I just skip the replacement and Just do the adaptor to powerhead gasket that needs repaired, or is that a bad Idea ??
If you want to use Gel Seal, its Loctite 518 or Permatex 51813.
None of the holes go thru into the crankcase so I don't know why Gel Seal is recommended!
the advice for changing themostats is a very good one,you will find the two thernmo's with pressure valves at the very bottom of powerhead on the head side,they are held in with 3 bolts,usually 7'16.they can be a bear to get at,and if they are corroded or salted in it can become a huge problem to do when powerhead in installed,in the warmer climates like here in florida keys,we often gut the thermos removing the plunger device ,this puts some restriction on the flow but not totally open as if removed,it is a personal choice,on a cool lake, i would use them,be sure to grease up the bolts to insure easy removal in the future,as for the powerhead removal,i have used old flywheel nuts and welded a loop on top to use as a lifting tool,there are flywheel pullers that convert to lift rings but can cost money if you cant borrow,i know the book and some say no gasket sealer on the mounting gasket,we in the keys use sealer,right or wrong,never had leaks or problems,same with head gaskets,i like to use a waterproof moly grease on the top of the driveshaft,it prevents the splines from rusting together,more common in saltwater,i put the same greae on mounting bolts,definatly do the impeller at this time the prices quoted earlier are right on
If you don't lift the powerhead straight up with a puller on the flywheel / crank, make darn sure you drop the gearcase first. Otherwise you take the chance of breaking the seal lip area on the bottom of the crank as the powerhead comes off or goes back on.
I will be lifting with a Lifting EYE in the center of the flywheel, will that keep it level or will it hang crooked, and run the risk of breaking the sela lip ???
I did not want to hab=ve to pull the lower unit for the extra cost of an impeller right no, but it sounds? like that is the best way to do it, so perhaps I should just wait till I have a new Thermostat kit as well as an impeller kit I guess ???
Also, What do YOU suggest to put on the bolt threads, and what is your opinion on the adaptor gasket install dry or use gasket sealer, and if so what would you suggest . . . . .
??? Evinrude E90Tlend 90HP - Adaptor to PowerHead Gasket ???
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