[bobwells]

My trouble started with top & bottom carbs flooding, (pouring out fuel from front of throats) at idle. I ordered new kits replaced needle and seats, floats, etc. fired her up yesterday same deal, fuel just pouring into the top & bottom carbs, they are single float carbs, best i know how floats are set level to the eye, they seemed to be sealing off good with needle in closed position, any ideas on what to look for? thanks, bob

[Ray Neudecker]

The 89 models did not have single bowl carbs. Are you using an electric fuel pump? Did you clean the carbs before installing the kits?

[JUSTINTIME]

does this motor have recirculation valves?
fuel running out of the carb would be a good indication for this

[bobwells]

I bought the engine used, was told they "thought it was '89"... could be older, or carbs could of been changed. I used it all summer with a little load up at idle, but not really any trouble, I live on a lake so it got run quite a bit. I do not run electric f/pump. As for cleanig i took them apart and sprayed down good w/ carb cleaner. I dont know what a recirculation valve is?... not an outboard mechanic,just having to learn due to high cost of labor. Use to hot rod cars so have some mechanic ability.?.. :-) also as for adjustments I guess would be called jets. They were just over 1-1/2 turns out so I set new ones at same place, is this correct? I know the carbs have definetly been into before by looking at screws etc... thanks for the help you guys provide everybody, and Merry Christmas !

[JUSTINTIME]

try to get a factory manual
follow the lines on the carbs
there might be recirculation valves on them, i just do not know

ray or rodbolt should know

[Ray Neudecker]

The single bowl 220 carbs were a favorite hop upon those motors. They were about 30 Hp more than the very restricted 150 ones.
There were a couple of kits for those carbs but every thing will interchange including float bowls as different as they look.
You are first going to have to do the carb job correctly. You need to dissasemble, soak in carb cleaner, wash out with hot soapy water (better halves will show you what tough is if you do it in her sink) and blow dry. Reassemble with new needles and seats and gaskets. Check the float heights.
The air idle adjustment according to the factory was 1 1/4 from a soft stop, I always preferred 1 1/2.

[bobwells]

Is the carb cleaner you say to soak them in a product I can by at an auto parts store? Any particular brand? Also how do I know what the float height should be set at? all i know is eyeballing level... thanks Ray
you know anything about this recirculating valve thingy?

[JUSTINTIME]

the napa stuff works the best
14mm-16mm i believe is the height of float

[Ray Neudecker]

I'll take justintimes word for the NAPA even though I haven't really found any difference in the results from a specific brand. The 14-16mm is fairly normal for Yamaha carbs. Have never seen the recirculation cause this problem.
One step at a time. Get those carbs right first.

[bobwells]

talked to a buddy today who works on motors, said the reed valves might be broken,burnt, etc. I told him the fuel seems to be coming down from the top of carb in a heavy spray/drizzle. I gotta pull carbs to ck this also, may have to "dig a little deeper in the well" if cleaning dont do it. He said I could partially see reeds with flashlight with carbs removed, may pull intake while carbs are off and check reed blocks. does this sound feasible ? (the reeds) I'll keep you posted, may be sat. b-4 i have time to shadetree again. thanks again, bob

[Ray Neudecker]

Normally reed problems will result in backfiring out of the carb. You can look at them with a flashlight when you pull the carbs off to be sure.