Hi all. I have a 1980 Evinrude outboard that is jumping out of gear when under load. Scared the P out of me the first time it did it.
From what I've gathered from lurking around here it's the "clutch dogs" that cause this. I believe I'm an above average shadetree mechanic, and really want to tear into her. Couple of questions before I do though:
1. Is the average Joe capable of doing this without having OMC special tool # @@!@#$. How hard is it?
2. What's the real name of the part I need? I was able to pull up a Bombardiar diagram here: http://epc.brp.com/default.aspx?bran...alerlocator=no
but did not see a "clutch dog".
look at item 12 on the parts list. you will have to have a oem manual, click literature on the brp site. or hunt it on ebay. i suggest you read the manual several times, and decide if you can do it.
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In the gearcase diagram part 12 refered to as shifter clutch dog These gearcases are much more difficult than the old 2 piece ones.In my after market manual the only reference to a special tool is "using suitable puller remove the bearing housing"As suggested previously an OEM manual is best and no repairs should be attempted without a manual.You may find a manual at the library.
Before diving into the lower unit, disconnect the shift cable and shift manually. If the problem goes away, its a cable adjustment problem, not the lower unit. One thing is certain however, continue running it that way and it will be a lower unit problem.
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Before taking anything apart, adjust the shift linkage as discribed in the service manual. Hopefully that will cure the problem. I have seen very little problem with the 9.9, and 15 gearcases.
It's a tiller handle, manual shift. I dropped the lower and made sure the linkage going to it was right...and it was engaging in forward gear.
I just checked the price of the part....got $69.25. If I have to roll the dice I would say replacing the part would be cheaper than buying an untested EBay unit....
I'm off to the shop to see if I can get to the clutch dog shifter. If I screw something up before buying the parts I'm just out a non-working lower unit. Thanks for all the replies, stay tuned for the thrilling conclusion!
It's a tiller handle, manual shift. I dropped the lower and made sure the linkage going to it was right...and it was engaging in forward gear.
I just checked the price of the part....got $69.25. If I have to roll the dice I would say replacing the part would be cheaper than buying an untested EBay unit....
I'm off to the shop to see if I can get to the clutch dog shifter. If I screw something up before buying the parts I'm just out a non-working lower unit. Thanks for all the replies, stay tuned for the thrilling conclusion!
If you replace the clutch dog, you will have to check the shift link adjustment's, including the shift rod in the gearcase. Why not do this first, and see if you can save $70.
Well it took me about 30 minutes to get to it. Looks like it will probably take me about 3 hours to get it back together lol. Well I snapped some pics to see what yall think of the critical internal parts. Forward gear is on the left, second picture shows the other side of the clutch dog. Click on thumbnails to enlarge.
It's really hard to tell from the pic's. I would have tried the shift adjustment. You will have to adjust that lower shift rod when you put it back together.
Well I managed to get the lower unit back together. I double checked the shift linkage adjustment according to my book...1.6mm to 10.5MM....installed lower and went to the lake.
It's still jumping out of gear. But we have some new info now. If I hold forward on the shift lever it will not jump out of gear.
I'm thining about just using a bungie cord to hold the lever forward....unless anyone else has any ideas
. I'm also thinking about trying to change the shift linkage a little to cheat it a little...backing the shift rod out about 4 turns to see if it cures it. Any thoughts on that?
I think the bungie will cause premature wear of the yolk and clutch dog groove etc
Manual says Screw shift rod into dhift lever and yoke then back out until bent upper portion is forward and flat side of coupler is toward the drive shaft.shift to neutral measure from top of coupler to mating surface of gearcase should be 13/32 to 7/16 of an inch.May be obtained by turning the rod.
^ Another prime example of the need to have a service manual.
Even before I knew which gear was forward I thought the forward gear looked worn.Maybe it's just the light.
Are the detent balls present and working?
Detent balls are present and working. It feels like a good solid shift into forward, neutral, and reverse. I set the shift linkage according to spec and it still jumped out of gear.
I then dropped lower and examined the hole shift linkage and bell crank thing carefully. It appears to me that the shift linkage adjustment really isn't that important on this motor. If the lower unit is not installed or hooked up the shift lever rotates freely forwards and backwards...there are no stops. There is enough free play travel in the shift lever forwards and backwardsto make the shift rod adjustment not critical. i.e. if the unit is in either forward or reverse...you can still push on the handle farther.
I went ahead and backed the shift rod out a few turns...which would actually give forward gear a better chance if this adjutment mattered...and it still jumped out of gear. My best conclusion is the internal parts of the gearcase are worn. I'm afraid to just replace the clutch dog without replacing everything else relevant inside there which equals a lot of green.
I took the motor for a one hour cruise last night...did fine with the bungie holding the lever forward. It wins for now I guess.
Just looking at the pictures I'd say you're in for a new forward gear and probably a clutch dog. Why not take the parts into a repair shop and have a mechanic take a looksee? Probably won't cost you anything to get a pronouncement of death on the right parts.
I have the same problem with my 1980 15 hp. I did not have this problem until I recently had someone replace the seals in the lower unit for me. After I got the motor back, it now jumps out of gear. I has never done this before. Is it possible the the guy who did the work for me did not put everything back together correctly which is causing the problem. Last night I dropped the lower unit to check the shift rod height above the lower unit case, and the rod is three mm too high. I tried to screw it in, but after a 1/4 turn, the threads end and it will not turn in any farther. This makes me suspect that something is not assembled correctly if I cannot get the rod adjusted to the proper height. I am afaid to run the motor because I do not want to damage gears when it pops in and out of gear at full speed. Is it possible the one of the parts is in backwords or is there only one way that things can fit?
1980 9.9 HP Evinrude jumps out of gear
Linear Mode
