I have some firing problems and have checked out the previous posts. After reading the posts, I think I need to start the engine and do the spark test again. (Boat is 135 miles away). I have attemped to replace the timer plate but cannot get the flywheel off. I used the correct puller and have tightened it and struck the center bolt with a hammer but it will not budge. I tightened it to the point of stretching one of the bolts into. If I do need to pull it, what do you suggest, heating?
Thanks,
What puller are you using? Are you using Gr 8 bolts? Forget heat or prying. I've used an impact wrench on the puller center bolt on stubborn flywheels or tapping the center puller center bolt while it's really tight. Good luck.
My manual says NEVER to hit the center bolt as it can damage the main bearings. Instead, it says to tap around the flywheel near the middle. The last one I pulled was a big PITA but I got it off without applying striking blows to the end of the crankshaft. I soaked mine with some PB Blaster too for about 24 hours.
Sounds like your not useing grade 8 bolts.... This is a must. All the advise here is what you need to know. I had to leave mine over night with PB Blaster. The next day I tightend it again and it just poped off. (Scares ya cause you think you may be overtightening)
When you reinstall it be sure you clean of all the PB Blaster or break free lubricant before reinstalling the flywheel.
Let everyone know how your proceeding so they can help you.
Never saw a flywheel yet that wouldn't come off with a decent puller and grade 8 bolts. As for never hitting the puller with a hammer, what manual says that? Not argueing, just want to know if I'm giving bad advice. Tighten the daylights out of the puller. If it's any good it won't break, and if it does break go get yourself a decent puller. I use the air impact wrench on mine all the time. And if it is stubborn go ahead and pry the flywheel upward enough to raise the shaft against the end play and give the center bolt a whack or two. Mind you, I didn't say pry it with a crowbar or belt it with a two pound sledge. And hitting it without lifting it really doesn't accomplish much. You are actually driving the shaft out of the flywheel, so it has to have somewhere to go-namely down.
by striking the center bolt it does not mean pound on it. the bottom main is eventually going to take the downward shock and its posible to damage it. a word of advice, leave the flywheel nut on a few threads. I had a 225 flywheel jump off and take a couple inches of hide from my forearm.
try not to heat it and be careful tapping on the flywheel as the magnets can be knocked loose, in fact when its off is a real good time to check for loose magnets.
some of the loopers flywheels can be tough to remove.
You should use the shoulder bolts from the OMC/BRP puller.If this is not possible,measure the height of all 3 bolts.Being even with a stubborn 'wheel is imperative.
Also,if the motor won't run,and fires erratically,you might have a sheared key complicating things.
Can you post a model # incase someone can think of something we're missing ?
As for never hitting the puller with a hammer, what manual says that? Not argueing, just want to know if I'm giving bad advice.
Yea I hate to argue too with someone like you who is vastly more experienced than me. You and Paul Moir have been a huge help to me getting my old 'rude running properly. But having said that and since you asked...
In my Seloc Johnson/Evinrude 1956-70 repair manual (#1300) Section 5-13 starting down in "paragraph 4"...
"DO NOT strike the puller center bolt in an attempt to dislodge the flywheel. Such action could seriously damage the lower seal and/or lower bearing.
Maybe this is more acceptable on smaller engines though...
I consulted my Chrysler 20HP service manual (not Clymer or Seloc. Chrysler). It says to just pry up the flywheel with a screwdriver and tap the flywheel nut to break the flywheel loose. It does warn to not use excessive force though. Or maybe they knew your Chrysler was going to break down and there isn't much you can do to make 'em any worse.
So at least for me. I would consider doing it as last resort considering the possible consequences. Then again I've not been doing this for 30 years. I'd love to read what Joe Reeves has to add on this matter.
Thanks for the info. from everyone. No name on the pulller but it is the same as shown in the repair manual as "universal puller". Round, 3 slots and a 1/2" hole in the side for a handle. Came with shoulder bolts and one of them is what i pulled into with impact wrench. They had a huge undercut between the shoulder and the threads, less than the small dia. of the threads and that is where it broke. Think they were grade 8, I checked the hardness and they were 34 to 37 rockwell. I have some gr.8 bolts ordered and I will try them. I did't have three washers exactly the same thickness, maybe caused the breakage. The eng. mod. # is VE200txesm. This all started with 2 cracked coils and some very bad connections from and to the powerpack. The wires had been spliced and were in bad condition. Installed 6 new coils and a powerpack. I have the adjustable spark plate and when I started, 1 and 5 were not firing and when I finished, 4 and 6 were not. I only switched on one battery and did all the tests without charging it. I couldn't really tell a change in the cranking speed but by that time I was dissapointed and pi*#@ off and probably wouldn't notice anyway. I checked the timer plate by the manual for resistance on the 4 prong plugs. The only resistance i had was from the bottom pin on one to the bottom pin on the other. The manual said they all should have resistance to each other but all others were 0. i thought i had a problem with meter, i couldn't believe it would fire all but 2 cylinders if all the pickups were bad. That's when I got the new timer plate. I checked the new one from pin to pin and it checks just like the manual stated. Guess i've written a book here, did't mean to. Thanks for any help. I'll be going back to where the boat is this weekend for a week vac. Hope i can get it fixed, the fish are biting.
OK, I can see the rationale for saying not to hit it with a hammer, understanding that to some people it means pounding on it with a two pound sledge. My idea of hitting it is to give it a sharp rap with a 12oz hammer to set up a shock to jar it loose. That is not going to drive the crankshaft down through the ball bearing. For years I didn't even own anything larger than a 12oz ball pien hammer. That's all you need to work on any outboard motor. I do have a 24oz now that I picked up at a garage sale. Don't know what to use it for. Maybe I'll find something that needs to be demolished.
I also use a 12oz hammer to give the center portion of the puller a sharp rap when simply tightening the puller spindle doesn't make the flywheel pop off.
One can also use a large screwdriver or some pry of ones preference to apply upward pressure to the bottom of the flywheel to reduce any shock that might be transfered to the main bearings.
Whatever you do, DO NOT apply heat unless you intend to purchase a new flywheel.
The shoulder type puller bolts must be securely tight, that is down to their shoulder limit against the flywheel threads. Screwing them in 7/8 or so invites a broken bolt and/or stripped flywheel threads.
As you found out, using washers of a different thickness results in essence of pulling at least one bolt sideways..... BOOM!
I avoid using a impact tool on that job. I use what mechanics call a spanner wrench to hold the flywheel while applying pressure to the center spindle of the puller, a tool that auto mechanics use to turn the flywheel when installing a pressure plate on a standard shift engine.
After applying as much pressure as one can, as FR indicates.... belt that puller center piece, give it a hard sharp rap. It should pop loose.
I have encouhtered a few 40hp flywheels that just wouldn't budge, leading to extraordinary meaures such as destroying the flywheel, cutting the hub away from the crankshaft.... last resort type measures, but never on any other horsepower engine.
NOTE: Be sure to torque that flywheel nut to 145 foot pounds upon re-installation. Any less will result in a sheared flywheel key.
Like the postcards say... "Wish you were here". I'd like to see that engine.
Thanks everyone for the info. I got the flywheel off, using the grade 8 bolts, measuring the height to within .003 of the 3 bolts and putting a lot of pressure on the puller with an impact wrench. Finally hit it from the bottom and it popped right up. Found that the port side wiring harness from the timer base had one wire rubbed completely into from the flywheel and another one was rubbed bare. Also found all the magnets lose. Replaced the timerbase, cleaned the flywheel and magnets by scraping off the old epoxy and replacing them with loctite epoxy after cleaning with acetone. I ran it a couple of days later after the epoxy dried and it ran sweet. Again, thanks for the help.
evinrude 200hp flywheel removal problem
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